Tenzan Onsen (Review): Hakone’s Lovely Tattoo-Friendly Onsen

Hakone and onsens are synonymous; you can’t experience one without the other! But not all hot springs in Hakone are equal.

Somewhat surprisingly, most of Hakone’s public onsens are not tattoo-friendly.

And not surprisingly, not many people know this before planning their trip! (Including me, who has a sleeve of tiny tattoos.)

But worry not, all of you inked folk—there are a couple of tattoo-friendly onsens in Hakone where you can still have an incredible Japanese onsen experience.

Of the onsens that accept tattoos in Hakone is none other than Tenzan Onsen (Tenzan Toji-Kyo), located in the town of Hakone-Yumoto (the same area as the Hakone-Yumoto Station).

Whether you are staying in Yumoto or not, it’s worth the trip to this onsen!

Here’s a short guide about what to expect and know about the Tenzan Onsen in Hakone before you visit.

Guide to the Tenzan Onsen in Hakone

Tenzan Onsen ♨️

• Hours: 9am – 11pm
• Address: 208 Yumotojaya, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0312
• Phone: 0460-86-4126
• Price: ¥1450
• Tattoo-friendly? Yes!

First — Onsen Etiquette in Hakone (& Japan)

Onsens are outdoor hot springs and while some may or not be tattoo-friendly, all other policies are typically the same.

Be sure to respect the onsen etiquette and enjoy this amazing practice of the Japanese lifestyle.

• Nude bodies only! (Don’t worry, it’s more comfortable than you think)
• Use only a small towel in the onsen area
• Shower your body thoroughly using soap (you don’t have to wash your hair if you don’t want to, but be sure to tie it up and keep it and your towel out of the water)
• Completely dry yourself before reentering the locker room
• Don’t chat loudly or disturb the peace in the onsen!

How to Get to the Tenzan Onsen

Tenzan Onsen is located a short 10-minute bus ride from Hakone-Yumoto Station.

Take the bus line “K” for 8 stops and descend at 奥湯本入口（バス）.

It’s best to keep your Google Maps open for Tenzan Onsen so you can see when you arrive at the correct stop.

Cross the street and walk down the winding road. The onsen building is across from the parking lot to your left. It’s a short 2-minute walk.

How to Visit Tenzan Onsen

Price

You first must purchase an onsen ticket at the vending machine outside (to your left up the first flight of steps, covered) before entering the building.

There isn’t any signage in English, but it’s fairly straightforward!

First, enter your bills or coins (cash only) and then push the button for 1 Adult.

The Tenzan Onsen costs ¥1450 per adult. If you have the Hakone Free Pass, your ticket price is reduced to ¥1350 (yay, savings!).

When you have entered a sufficient amount of money, the button will light up red.

Press it and your ticket will punch out! 🎫

Take your ticket, and your Hakone Free Pass, to the reception desk inside the main building, up another flight of steps.

Hours

Tenzan Onsen is open daily from 9 am to 11 pm.

However, note that the last buses of the day depart for Hakone-Yumoto and Motohakone-ko at the latest around 8:30 pm, so plan your evening accordingly.

To enjoy the onsen to the fullest, you should plan at least 2 hours.

This is enough time to get undressed, wash before entry, soak in the hot springs, redress, and leave.

The bus timetable may vary from the weekday to the weekend, although it looks like one comes around every 30 minutes (on the hour at 25 and 55, so 16:25 and 16:55 for example).

Notes

Tattoo policy

Tenzan Onsen is tattoo-friendly, but as you’ll read on a sign (written in English) near the vending machine and entrance, they ask that you come alone and not with companions.

I’m guessing this is because of the association of tattoos and gangs (maybe?). They even suggest that should you enter alone but meet up with your friends inside, you will be asked to leave. Interesting!

Shoes off upon entry

Before you show your ticket at the entry desk, remove your shoes and put them in a locker to your right.

Bath towel rental

You are required to take a small face/bath towel with you into the onsen, but if you don’t bring one you can rent one here for ¥200. If you need a large bath towel, it costs ¥350.

But the small towel is enough to pat yourself dry after exiting the baths, don’t worry!

Inside the Tenzan Onsen (Women’s)

I can’t speak for what the men’s side of the onsen looks like, but I can tell you about the women’s side!

After going down the hall and a flight of steps, you’ll find another desk. Head left under the curtains with red, indicating the women’s section.

You can store your oversized bags and backpacks or coats in the lockers right ahead—these don’t have keys but work with a code.

Continue down this private hall and into the women’s locker room.

Here, you’ll get undressed, store your clothes in a smaller locker, and take the key. Wear this key around your wrist inside the onsen.

You can use the restroom and tidy up before exiting outside to the baths (at the back of the locker room).

First, wash up!

There is a large, open-air washroom immediately to your left.

Sit on the stool and rinse all your bits with soap. Shampoo, body soap, and conditioner are free to use.

Remember to keep your hair tied up and out of the baths, it’s customary to put your small town across your head (or on a nearby rock or ledge) while soaking in the hot springs.

While you can begin with any tub, I recommend starting with the circular milky-blue hot spring first as it’s the mildest.

Then, work your way anti-clockwise for the best experience, as the springs progressively get hotter.

There is also a small cold-plunge rock pool to the right.

I enjoyed the upper-level springs the most! There is a cave-like arch and these hot springs were the most comfortable for me temperature-wise.

The trickling of water over the rocks, the steam, the birds, the bubbling, the wind rustling the leaves… Ahh! The Tenzan onsen is the picture-perfect type of onsen you’d expect from Hakone, Japan. 🧖‍♀️ ❤️

If you get hot, you can splash water on the bench and take a seat to cool off.

If in doubt, just sit back and watch how the locals do!

There is also a hot/dry sauna room you can use, although I didn’t use it and ended up spending more time in the springs.

The “last” hot spring to dip into, as I was told by another woman enjoying the baths, is the one that is covered and adjacent to the washroom. As you’ll see, this one is piping hot and is meant to be the quick last dip for your skin before you leave.

Don’t forget to pat down completely dry before reentering the changing room! There are mirrors and hair dryers you can use to get ready before you exit.

Now, enjoy this delicious heat that warms you down to your bones!! 😌

Relaxing in an onsen is one of the best things to do in Hakone, especially on a cold and rainy day or when visiting Hakone in winter.

Other public onsens in Hakone to try:

• Hakone Yuryo (not tattoo-friendly)
• Hakone no Yu (not tattoo-friendly)
• Natural Onsen Izumi
• Yu no Sato Okada
• Komorebi no Yado Furusato
• Kappa Tengoku

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