Wild fling: one Tatler editor’s journey to discover the heart of her boyfriend’s homeland, Colombia

The Mamo’s blessing was made all the more poignant the next day as we travelled south into the heart of the Sierra Nevada to Casa Oropéndola, a wooden cabin just for Giorgio and me (think Malibu mansion with a laid-back jungle twist). Set some 5,776 metres above sea level, it was a place where we slowed down – and, in light of meeting the Kogis, really connected with nature. We sat in rocking chairs on the veranda overlooking the mountains and watched hummingbirds fly past until the clouds engulfed us. Our chef, Sergio, was a gastronomic genius, concocting local delights ranging from patacones con ají (fried plantain with chilli) to desert figs with arequipe (caramel) and arepa (quasi-pancakes made with maize). We burnt off the calories on hikes through the wilderness with our gentle host, Santi, who encouraged us to dive into a freezing cold waterfall. ‘Take in this wonderful moment,’ he cooed, as we chanted, meditated and breathed deeply in euphoria.

It wasn’t long until we were back to civilisation in Cartagena, the thriving, colourful Spanish colonial city. We wandered through the 16th-century cobbled streets and chanced upon García Márquez’s house, an orange-washed villa designed by the celebrated Colombian architect Rogelio Salmona. But our ambling was cut short, for Blue Apple Beach was calling. This hotel sits just off the coast of Cartagena on the island of Tierra Bomba, with a private golden beach and unfussy thatched-roof cabins with open-air bathrooms.

Blue Apple is the place to party – a place where glamorous Colombians bedecked in gold chain necklaces come in from Cartagena on speedboats just for the afternoon and head straight to the bar, or the king-size daybeds, which makes this hotel feel very French Riviera (but with less rosé and more tequila). It was exactly the vibe we were looking for.

As we sat by our cabana’s private pool, we realised we were ending our adventure just how it started: with salt-rimmed margaritas and thumping techno beats – but this time in the Caribbean sunshine.

Pelorus can organise a bespoke seven-night trip in Colombia from £15,000 per person, including accommodation, transfers, activities and expert local guides; pelorusx.com