Best Things to Do in Kutaisi in 1-4 Days: The Ultimate Guide

What to do in Kutaisi, Georgia’s fourth-biggest city – including must-sees, alternative experiences, and the best day trips. As recommended by a Kutaisi expat.

A world apart from Tbilisi and Batumi, Georgia’s fourth-largest city, Kutaisi, is hands down the most charming in Georgia.

Yes, I’m a little biased because of all the places I’ve visited in Georgia, Kutaisi pulled at my heartstrings the most – enough to convince me to move here!

Petite, pretty and low-rise, Kutaisi is Georgia’s city of eternal spring. Chamomile flowers decorate the pavements, the sun beams down on the historic stone houses, and flowers bloom without any regard for the weather.

It’s as if the phrase ‘old-world charm’ was coined to describe this place: Kutaisi looks and feels as if it’s of another era.

Whether you’re arriving in Georgia at Kutaisi International Airport or you’re looking for a place to break up your journey across the country from east to west, I highly recommend settling down in Kutaisi for a few days and exploring the city and surrounding area.

Here are all my favourite things to do in Kutaisi – including the must-sees plus local’s favourites and hidden gems – organised into a logical and easy-to-follow 1-4 day itinerary.

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Is Kutaisi worth visiting?

Capital of the historic Imereti region and one of the oldest settlements in Europe, Kutaisi is compact, peaceful, green, and has a friendly ‘big village’ vibe. At the same time, it has great infrastructure, a growing restaurant-bar scene, oodles of interesting architecture and history, overgrown parks, overflowing markets, and beautiful churches at every turn.

Split in two by the roaring Rioni River, Kutaisi is utterly charming but with a grungy edge. Chimney stacks loom on the horizon, and in the hills around Kutaisi you can find some of Georgia’s most iconic Soviet-era throwbacks, including the Tskaltubo sanatoriums and the Chiatura cable cars, interspersed with tea fields, wild waterfalls and lush canyons.

Kutaisi is undoubtedly the most strategically located city in Georgia, which makes it a great base for exploring other areas. It’s the perfect jumping-off point for the mountains of Svaneti and Racha, the tea region of Guria, and the lesser-visited Samegrelo and Upper Imereti. Mountain resorts such as Sairme and Abastumani are only a short drive away, while Batumi and the Black Sea Coast can be reached in under 2 hours by car.

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Best things to do in Kutaisi: The perfect Kutaisi itinerary for 1-4 days of travel

Here’s how to spend one, two, three or four days in Kutaisi, Georgia.

1 day in Kutaisi: Classic Kutaisi

If you’re just passing through and you only have 24 hours in Kutaisi, I recommend you follow Day 1 of this itinerary. It’s definitely a jam-packed program, but you’re guaranteed to tick off most of the must-sees within the centre along with the beautiful Gelati and Motsameta monasteries on the outskirts of the city.

Start your morning at the Green Bazaar, a must-see in Kutaisi

The fragrant, boisterous Green Bazaar is the oldest and largest agricultural market on the eastern side of the river and sets the perfect tone for your first day in Kutaisi. It is open every day of the week from morning until the early evening. I recommend visiting no earlier than 10am.

The covered part of the market is divided into several sections. On the main floor, you’ll find stalls selling bundles of herbs, wreaths of dried chillies, marigold flowers and persimmons, and mountains of seasonal fruit and veg.

The elevated level of the covered section contains more stalls and a very photogenic spice shop selling paprika, adjika, Svanetian salt, Imeretian tea leaves and other treats. The central hall is home to the cheese, dairy and flour section, and several outdoor corridors on the periphery have more fruit and honey shops. Vendors are usually full of smiles and love meeting tourists.

In summer and early autumn you can buy delicious peaches, nectarines, and berries by the bucketload here. In spring you can find Orthodox Easter provisions including different shades of red dye for colouring eggs.

There are a few particular points of interest around the market. As you’re approaching the main entrance, be sure to pop into the outdoor book market that is set up on the edge of the park. Most of the shops sell school books, but sometimes you can find second-hand gems. It’s one of my favourite hidden gems in Kutaisi.

If you need a caffeine hit, I recommend the Cafes Richard coffee stand on the corner. If you want a bite to eat, there is a sit-down cafe inside the Green Bazaar called Bread and Wine. They sell Lagidze natural lemonade and delicious lobiani and khachapuri.

Another must-see is the ‘Kolkhida‘ or ‘Kolkheti’, an imposing Soviet-era bas-relief on the market facade. Created by artist Bernard Nebieridze in 1982, the rust-coloured panel references the Kingdom of Colchis, with scenes of Medea, Jason and the Golden Fleece interwoven with other Kutaisi-related imagery. It took 10 years to complete and following the artist’s untimely death, was completed by his colleagues.

You’ll see similar motifs repeated elsewhere in Kutaisi, which is believed by some historians to be the ancient capital of the forgotten kingdom, the mythological city of Aia.

Walk around the rear of the market, through the bustle of stalls on Paliashvili I Alley, to Varlamishvili Street where you’ll see cheese and chacha vendors in their sweet little hole-in-the-wall shops.

On the opposite side of the road, there is a small undercover flower market.

One of Kutaisi’s most iconic street art pieces, With Love by Sasha Korban, is located on the wall of the blood bank building nearby. Painted by the Ukrainian artist in 2023 in partnership with Tbilisi Mural Fest, it depicts a woman making Imeruli khachapuri.

The protagonist is a real person: 81-year-old Dali Doghonadze. Bebia Dali still bakes khachapuri and runs masterclasses at Agro Guesthouse Korena near Gelati Monastery – you will get a chance to meet her later today!

Back towards the west, Lermontov Street has a number of treasures. Number 11 houses one of the many hardware shops in the area. In a previous life, it was an opulent apartment belonging to Simon Khechinashvili, a famous Kutaisian physician. Duck inside to see the incredibly well-preserved 1880s interior, with its detailed plaster moulding and original ceramic fireplace.

Across the street, Pharmacy 8 has a display of antique bottles, vials and scales in a ‘museum room’ behind the counter. It’s said that Mitropan Ladigze, the inventor of the famous Georgian drink, Lagidze Water, apparently worked here as a teenager.

Embark on a self-guided Kutaisi city walking tour

Most of the essential Kutaisi must-sees are located in the centre of the city, close to the market. After the Green Bazaar, cross the road into the park and continue exploring the heart of the city. It should take 2-2.5 hours to cover the following points of interest.

Tip: At the start of 2023, more than 60 plaques were installed around downtown Kutaisi. Download the Kutaisi Travel app and scan the QR codes to learn more about the city’s architecture and landmarks as you wander.

Kutaisi Park (Central Garden) was a royal garden gifted to Princess Darejan, daughter of King Solomon I of Imereti, in the 1820s on the occasion of her wedding. Known as ‘Boulevard’ to the locals, it is now a public park with a colonnaded entryway, grand fountains, and half a dozen different sculptures dedicated to different artists and historical characters.

The Sisters Ishkhneli statue, a homage to the folk quartet who hailed from Kutaisi and took Georgia by storm in the 1940s, is particularly sweet.

Note that the park is currently closed for a major renovation and will reopen in summer 2024.

The northern and southern sides of the park are flanked by gorgeous old-town architecture. I am particularly fond of the pink building on Paliashvili Street (we will return here later!) and the very-Soviet Kutaisi City Hall on Rustaveli Street.

My favourite building is the merchant brothers Gabriel and Ivane Andronikashvili house on the southern side of the square. It was built around 1880 and features lovely stucco work, corner balconies, and friezes offset with glazed tiles.

Kutaisi’s main square (actually a traffic circle) lies at the top of the park with the Colchis Fountain at its centre. The symbol of Kutaisi, the unusual water feature is tiered with scaled-up versions of tiny ritual figurines that were unearthed at prehistoric Colchian burial sites in Imereti. These include deer with spectacular antlers (a Pagan icon) and the famous Tamada toastmaster (you can see the original figure at the museum in Vani).

The twin horses that crown the fountain are modelled after a pair of Colchian gold earrings.

The rotund Meskhishvili Theatre sits behind the fountain. Named after actor-director Lado Meskhishvili, it was established in 1861 – which makes it one of the oldest theatres in Georgia. Though nowhere near as opulent as the Opera Theatre in Tbilisi, the interior is still very beautiful. Regular drama performances are staged in the 830-seat main hall. Check the playbill online here.

Continue down the southern side of the park to visit the Glory to Labour Monument, a 1980 Soviet-style sculpture by E. Amashukeli and I. Bastanashvili with several components made from wrought iron and concrete blocks.

The surrounding Saba Kldiashvili Square was named for a prominent Kutaisi scientist and chemist and boasts a gorgeous flowering magnolia tree.

Back on Rustaveli Avenue, the State Opera Theatre reveals itself with 10 Grecco-Roman figures standing proudly atop its highest pillars. It was built in 1969 to replace the older Kharazov Theatre, which was destroyed by fire in 1946.

Kutaisi has a serious vintage vibe – is it just me, or do all the ladies in town dress in florals, lace and leather shoes? As you cross the street, look for the white and yellow flowers painted on the zebra crossings.

These are chamomiles, another symbol of Kutaisi. Every year on May 2, the city celebrates Kutaisoba or Gviriloba, the ‘chamomile’ festival, which honours the city and a 19th-century tradition where Kutaisian school girls sold flowers in the streets to raise money for the local tuberculosis hospital.

Cute artsy and retro-themed cafes are in no short supply, and on the corner opposite the Opera Theatre, you’ll find one of the best. Set on the bottom level of the once-grand Hotel Kutaisi, Tea House Foe-Foe serves loose-leaf tea by the pot, coffee, crepes and light meals. It’s a nice place to stop for morning tea.

(Or for something stronger, the wine bar next door, Winetage, serves Imeretian natural wines by the glass from 11am onwards!)

Foe-Foe means something like ‘hoity-toity’, and the cafe is dolled up with highfalutin accoutrements and antiques. The walls are adorned with sketches by Petre Otskheli, a Kutaisi-born set and costume designer who tragically fell victim to the Soviet regime in 1937.

Otskheli is my favourite Georgian artist. If you like his style, I highly recommend going to view his original drawings at the Art Palace museum in Tbilisi.

Pause to admire the stunning green-and-gold corner building opposite the cafe. It was built in 1910 and functioned as the up-market Palace Hotel before it was reappropriated by the Soviets as housing. Today it has a bookshop and another lovely cafe, Piatto, on its lower level. Upstairs is the wonderful Gallery Terrace, a rooftop bar with outstanding city views (I highly recommend coming back here later for a drink).

Make your way down Kantselebi Street to walk past Kutaisi’s first public school and the former Radium Theatre.

There are plenty of gorgeous old buildings in this part of town, known as the Royal District, and you can see some stunning stone facades come into view as you get closer to the small roundabout.

Off to the left, there is a pedestrian alleyway, known as the ‘Wall of Love’, with several colourful street art murals, bakeries and a restaurant. At the opposite end, the delightfully Deco Mon Plaisir Arch (meaning ‘My pleasure’ in French) survives as a reminder of Kutaisi’s French connection (more on that on Day 2).

Continuing towards the river, you will see a small green park dedicated to Kutaisi-born actress Veriko Anjaparidze with a statue of Paolo Iashvili and Titian Tabidze, two of the poets who established the Blue Horns (Tsisperqantselebi) literary collective in Kutaisi in the 1920s, out front.

Inside the park, past the cable car station, the Okros Chardakhi or Golden Marquee is a former residence of the Imeretian royal family. The double-story house has a wrap-around balcony that faces onto the river and is shaded by an 800-year-old plane tree. It was constructed in the 19th century, but the site dates back to the 17th century.

Normally the museum is officially open daily from 10am – but in my experience, the gate is usually locked. At the time of writing, the palace is under renovation, but you can still peek in through the gate.

Cross the 1872 French-built White Bridge (Tetri Khidi), peering down through the perspex floor to see the rapidly flowing Rioni River wash over the ashen rocks. Some of the metal panels are inscribed with snippets of poetry and verse from famous Georgian writers.

Snap a photo with the statue of Picasso’s Boy, a character from the film An Unusual Exhibition by Rezo Gabriadze (of Gabriadze Marionette Theatre in Tbilisi fame).

The statue is a tribute to an unusual custom called ‘Baptism as a Kutaisian’, where young men would jump off the White Bridge into the Rioni, a-la the bridge divers in Mostar. Thankfully it is no longer practiced today!

The cafe at the end of the bridge, White Stones, was a meeting place for the Blue Horns back in the day. If you have time, grab a cup of coffee and enjoy the musical sounds of the fast-flowing Rioni.

Eat a homemade Imeretian feast at Agro Guesthouse Korena

After covering the city centre on foot, it’s time to head north into the Imeretian countryside to visit Gelati and Motsameta monasteries. But first, I recommend making a small detour for this special dining experience in Motsameta village.

Agro Guesthouse Korena is located walking distance from the furthest of the two monasteries, so you can stop here for lunch first. The historic wooden oda house has a cosy fireplace for winter and a sun-kissed veranda for summer dining. The matriarch is a terrific chef and can spin up a huge spread of traditional Imeretian dishes prepared in clay ketsi pans.

Lunch is available on request and costs 80 GEL per person. There is also the option to organise a cooking masterclass for 90 GEL per person. Be sure to book a few days in advance via Facebook.

Agro Guesthouse Korena is located 20 minutes from Kutaisi city centre. To get there, take a taxi for 12 GEL when booked through Bolt.

Visit the UNESCO-listed Gelati Monastery & the lovely Motsameta

Walk off that massive lunch with a 20-minute stroll to the first monastery, the UNESCO-listed Gelati. Founded in 1106 and a symbol of Georgia’s Golden Age, this is one of the oldest and most important churches in the west of the country.

King David the Builder established the monastery and oversaw construction of the first of several churches on the site. The main chapel is decorated with incredible frescoes painted between the 12th-17th centuries.

The emerald-tiled roof of the main monastery is very unique and gives Gelati its distinguished profile. Restorations are currently underway and unfortunately there have been some issues with the roof – so you might find some parts are covered with scaffolding.

Gelati was not only a monastery, but also an academy – much like Ikalto in Eastern Georgia’s Kakheti. Prominent scientists, philosophers and other intellectuals were invited to take up residence at Gelati, where a lavish scriptorium and library housed illuminated gospels and other texts. King David’s crypt lies at the monastery’s south gate.

Around 2 km down the hill back towards Kutaisi, Motsameta Monastery is more modest than Gelati, yet it commands stunning views of Imereti from its cliff-side location. There is also an old school building and an observatory on the property.

If you prefer some narration and local tips, I highly recommend joining this half-day tour with Budget Georgia. It departs daily and covers both Gelati Monastery and Motsameta Monastery plus Bagrati Cathedral back in town. Check prices and availability here on Viator OR book direct through the Budget Georgia website and save 10% when you mention Wander-Lush. Budget Georgia also offers a walking tour of downtown Kutaisi.

If you have time, it’s possible to walk from Gelati to Motsameta. The shady trail starts from the cemetery adjacent to Gelati and passes through a village before joining up with the main road. Otherwise, you can try hitchhiking or taking a taxi or marshrutka.

Both monasteries are free to visit and open every day until nightfall. Unfortunately there isn’t much signage at either site so it’s a good idea to do some research before you go.

It’s also possible to walk all the way back into town from Motsameta, following the railway tracks as a guide (watch out for trains!). A variation of this route takes you alongside the Tskaltsitela ‘Red River’, past swimming holes and a historic stone Tamar Bridge.

Back in Kutaisi, the path ends in Sapichkhia district at this point. While you’re in the area, be sure to stop by the abandoned railway station and historic Sapichkhia Church.

Finish your one day in Kutaisi with dinner & drinks in town

There are several terrific restaurants in Kutaisi to choose from for your first dinner. My top recommendations are Black Tomato Kitchen (for Georgian-Jewish fare) and Sapere (for local wine and small plates, below right), both located in Sapichkhia district.

Another option is Lilestan on Tamar Mepe Street, which serves a generous Imeretian tasting board (below left) with a range of local delicacies.

If you have time, enjoy a nightcap at Sisters, located on the second floor of that pretty pink building on the side of the park, drop into Winetage for a glass or two, or head up to the rooftop bar at Gallery Terrace.

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2 days in Kutaisi: Historic Kutaisi

With two days in Kutaisi, you can explore more of the historic centre and spend some time in the city’s lesser-known Jewish and Catholic neighbourhoods. This day is full of museums, history, culture and architecture, with sunset at Bagrati Cathedral to top it off.

If your accommodation doesn’t provide breakfast, start your day with eggs and Rachan ham at Doli. Open from 9am, this restaurant inside Communal Hotel does the best breakfast in town.

Wander through the State Historical Museum

There are half a dozen interesting museums in the city centre. If you have 48 hours in Kutaisi, there is an option here to set aside an hour or so for wandering through the main institution, the Kutaisi State Historical Museum.

Mostly dedicated to the city’s ancient history, it displays a collection of Colchian gold jewellery, Bronze Age weaponry, and other artefacts. During Soviet times, important religious icons from Imereti’s churches and monasteries were absorbed into the museum’s collection for safekeeping.

The corner building – a 19th-century bank – is gorgeous, but it’s getting a bit long in the tooth. Soon, the museum will relocate to a renovated building on the main square.

It’s a bit dusty overall, but it’s still worth a walk through, particularly if you opt for the guided tour in English. The museum is open from 10am daily, and entrance costs 5 GEL.

Visit one of Kutaisi’s quirky small museums

Kutaisi’s smaller museums and galleries are also fun to visit. The David Kakabadze Art Gallery on the park was founded in 1974 inside the former Hotel de France and exhibits 3,000 paintings from prominent Georgian artists including Niko Pirosmani. David Kakabadze’s quilt-like Cubist landscape paintings – many of which depict rural Imereti – also hang here.

Don’t miss the courtyard out back, where a number of damaged Soviet-era sculptures now reside.

On the other side of the park, the Museum of Georgian Sports was founded in 1970 and is the only institution of its kind in the country. It pays tribute to Kutaisi’s love of sports and legacy of producing renowned athletes. The museum is small but interesting, and the staff are very dedicated. View medals, ephemera, and archival photos of past olympic teams related to the popular Georgian sports of football, judo, wrestling, alpine climbing and more.

Nearby, the National Museum of Military Glory (established in 1975) is similarly small but lovingly tended. It displays armaments and photographs spanning various conflicts from WWII through to the 2008 Russo-Georgian war. Note the lovely bas-relief decorations on the front of the building.

Neither museum has much in the way of English signage, but both are free to visit.

Further along Varlamishvili Street, the Zakaria Paliashvili House Museum is dedicated to the classical Georgian composer who was born in Kutaisi in 1871.

Pop into the Photo-cinema Chronicle Museum

Located at number 7 Newport Street, this tiny museum is another hidden gem in Kutaisi. Enthusiastic staff only speak Georgian and Russian – but the vast collection of archival photos, newspaper clippings and film reels speak for themselves.

Alongside photographs of old Kutaisi from the days of the Russian Empire, there are vintage film cameras and other ephemera on display.

The museum is officially open from 9.30am daily, but again, I often arrive to find it locked. Entry is free, but donations are welcome.

Discover Kutaisi’s Jewish & French heritage

Grab an easy lunch in town at whichever of the aforementioned restaurants you haven’t visited yet (Palaty is also a solid choice) before spending your afternoon unravelling a different side of Kutaisi, the historic French and Jewish districts along the Rioni River.

Located between the Colchis Fountain and the Rioni on the western side of the Hotel Newport, Kutaisi’s French or Catholic Quarter was settled by Capuchin missionaries in the 17th century. Its centrepoint, the Holy Annunciation Temple, was built in 1862 by King Solomon II to serve the community.

As the number of Catholic families dwindled, it was converted (or re-converted, depending on who you ask) into an Orthodox church. The robust arched facade, interior frescoes – and most obviously the ‘Immaculate Conception’ inscription – are all very atypical for Georgia.

The architecture on the streets around the temple is all very interesting. This house at the end of Newport Street, with its ornately shaped windows, and the symmetrical former Military Commandant’s Office on Dvalishvili Street are particularly beautiful.

At the end of the road, a second church, St. George’s, has a lovely outlook over the Rioni from the yard. Founded as an Armenian Apostolic Church, it too was (re)converted into an Orthodox house of worship.

Kutaisi’s Jewish Quarter starts from the other side of the Hotel Newport and extends down Jerusalem Street, Newport Street (Bethlemi Street) and Gaponov Street. Take a right at the park on Gaponov Street and you’ll see the first of Kutaisi’s three synagogues.

The monumental Kutaisi Synagogue is the second-largest in Georgia after the Great Synagogue in Tbilisi. Completed in 1886, it has a beautiful symmetrical stone facade and an extravagant painted interior.

A second synagogue, added in 1912, is located on the eastern side of the same lot and is much smaller. The complex also contained a Matza bread bakery and a school. A third synagogue, the Old Synagogue, is the most senior of the trio, having been completed in 1852. It is located further down Gapanov Street.

As a side note: Kutaisi was once home to one of Georgia’s largest Jewish communities. Georgian Jews (Gurjim or Kartveli Ebraelebi) trace their lineage back to families who migrated from Babylon in the 6th century BC. The first official records of a Jewish community in Kutaisi dates back to 1644. Most Jewish families departed in the 1960s for Israel, and today the community is very small.

Still, there are enough worshippers to make up a minyan and parishioners gather at the big synagogue on the Sabbath. There are often people around the yard and someone might be willing to open the door of the main synagogue for you to go inside. The two smaller synagogues remain locked up.

In front of the main synagogue, there is a memorial to Boris Gaponov, one of Kutaisi’s most prominent Jewish residents. Famous for translating Shota Rustaveli’s The Knight in the Panther’s Skin into Hebrew, he passed away in 1972 and remains a beloved figure.

The streets between and around the synagogues feature row houses and old shops, some of which are marked with the Star of David. If you’re interested in Jewish history, also consider visiting the Old Jewish Cemetery in Sapichkhia, located here.

Detour to Mtsvanekvavila Temple & Pantheon

After the synagogue, follow Nizami Street then Gelati Street to the crest of the hill. Eventually you’ll come to a big stone pillar marking the main entrance to Mtsvanekvavila Temple.

Mtsavnekhvavili Eklesia (‘Green Flower Church’), also known as the Archangel Dome Church, was built in 1909-13 on the site of a much older structure, possibly a basilica church dating back to the year 1013.

A Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures was added later in 1956. Among the prominent figures interred here is Meliton Balanchivaze, an opera singer and composer, and the father of George Balanchine, a prominent figure in the American ballet world.

Much like Mtatsminda Pantheon in Tbilisi, the pantheon commands incredible views and is filled with exuberant and creative headstones – including one shaped like a film reel. Some date back as far as the 1800s.

There is a beautiful old stone building covered with moss, and from the viewing platform near the church, you can look down over the Jewish Quarter and the Old Synagogue.

Cross the Rioni dam & stroll through the Kutaisi Botanical Garden

Wander back down Gelati Street, stopping to admire some of the typically Kutaisian two-storey stone houses with tall wooden doors, then head down to the riverside Mtsvanekvavila Street, is an idyllic, shady avenue with little parks and sitting areas where men gather in the afternoon to play dominoes.

Keep walking along the river until you see a flight of green metal stairs on the left. You can use these to walk down to the river’s edge and across the dam.

Visitors are not permitted to go inside the station, but you are free to walk across the parapet wall, past the four locks and torrent of white water. I can’t find much information about this structure but I was told by one local that the dam was built by German POWs in the post-war period.

Once you reach the other side, head up the alley to the main road then walk west for about 20 minutes to reach the entrance to the Kutaisi Botanical Garden. Inaugurated in 1840, it contains a small arboretum of subtropical trees, with walking paths and a few fountains. The highlight is the ‘Chapel Carved from Wood’, 400-year-old oak tree with a tiny church in its hollowed-out trunk. Clad with Orthodox icons, it’s just big enough to permit one worshipper inside.

The garden definitely needs some TLC and is nowhere near as big or grand as the Batumi Botanical Garden, but it’s not a bad place for a leisurely stroll. Give yourself half an hour to see everything. Entrance costs a few GEL.

Golden hour at Bagrati Cathedral & sundowners at Our Garden

There is no better way to end the day in Kutaisi than with a sunset view from Bagrati Cathedral. The 11th-century turquoise-topped church on the hill is one of Kutaisi’s major landmarks and can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.

Formerly a UNESCO World Heritage Site (it was removed from the list following controversial restorations), Bagrati also has incredible frescoes. On the eastern side of the church there are the remains of Ukimerioni Fortress, an older castle.

King David the Builder, who famously reunified Georgia in the 12th century following the Battle of Didgori, was crowned at Bagrati and is interred here.

The place is dripping with history, but for most visitors the highlight is definitely the view from the church yard. You can see almost all of Kutaisi from here, and at dusk, the sky turns shades of smoky pink and purple. The gate to Bagrati stays open every day until late.

To get there from the Botanical Garden, follow the steep backstreets and approach the cathedral from the north via Ketevan Tsamebuli Street. There are some beautiful houses and charming water wells in this neighbourhood. The surreal Hotel Khvamli Turbaza (formerly an Intourist Hotel called White Stones) sticks out like a sore thumb.

Once you’re finished at Bagrati, before walking down the opposite side of the hill (using these stairs as a shortcut), find a table on the terrace at Our Garden and enjoy a glass of Imeretian wine overlooking the illuminated cathedral.

Stop by Kutaisi’s oldest bridge

Back down on the riverside, you can backtrack a few steps to this Wissol petrol station to see the automotive-themed Soviet bas-reliefs and the panel depicting Bagrati Cathedral, then continue on past the Chain Bridge. Kutaisi’s oldest river crossing, the former Royal Bridge is built on the site of a 5th-century structure and still has its original 1770s support pillars.

Lovely views of the stilted wooden houses that cling to the rock above the water can be found from the bridge – but don’t cross all the way, take a peek, then continue walking down David and Constantine Street, taking care as there’s not much of a footpath.

Dinner at Magnolia

After passing the distinctive statue of Galaktion Tabidze, you will soon arrive at the magnificent Hotel Magnolia, with its handsome turquoise wooden balconies. Out front, an equally captivating magnolia tree hangs low over the water. When this tree shows its pink blossoms, that’s the sign that spring has officially arrived in Georgia!

Head down the stairs beside the tree to Magnolia Restaurant and enjoy dinner on the balcony with the Rioni splashing past. Magnolia serves delicious Georgian fare, including some unusual dishes such as khinkali filled with buffalo meat.

After dinner, cross the Red Bridge (Tsiteli Khidi) – famously manufactured in France in Gustave Eiffel’s factory – to get back to the market area. From here, you can keep walking straight to reach the Colchis Fountain.

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3 days in Kutaisi: Alternative Kutaisi + Tskaltubo

Day 3 of this Kutaisi itinerary takes you beyond the historic centre to explore two newer residential districts, Balakhvani and Rustaveli on the opposite side of the river.

In the afternoon, take a side trip to Tskaltubo to explore the abandoned Soviet-era spa houses and once-grand sanatoriums.

Discover abandoned buildings & Soviet throwbacks in Balakhvani & Rustaveli

If you’re staying near the Colchis Fountain, start by walking south along Tamar Mepe Street towards Kutaisi I Railway Station.

Tamar Mepe (Queen Tamara) is one of Kutaisi’s coolest kuchas with several remarkable pieces of architecture, including ‘China House’ (built by Mariam Davitashvili-Chubinishvili in the 1900s, and now with a nightclub and a bar inside) and the Gothic-looking building opposite, which houses the main branch of Georgian Post.

Along the way, grab a lobiani or a few bubliki (doughy pretzels that are famous in Kutaisi) from one of the local bakeries on Tamar Mepe.

To see some classically beautiful Kutaisi architecture, take a detour along Titsian Tabidze Street, behind the university. One of the grandest buildings on this street was constructed in 1882 for Yevgenia Yurchenko-Prince, and was later sold to Constantine Oldenburg, the grandson of Tsar Alexander I’s sister, Catherine. In Soviet times it was used by the KGB.

After about 15 minutes on foot, you will reach the railway station. There are several old locomotives with CCCP insignia parked on the tracks around this point if you want to take a peek. 

A grand equestrian statue of King David the Builder stands out front on the same spot where an effigy of Lenin once was. Directly opposite, a cascading staircase leads down the hill to the residential district of Balakhvani.

Walk down to Balakhvani, where two grand Stalin Classicist apartment buildings frame the main avenue. Beneath the belvedere, see if you can spot the gorgeous bas-relief depicting a pair of lovers encircled by vines and doves. In the Soviet era, this was a Wedding Palace.

If you’re in need of another snack, the little cake shop called La Fete sells mini lobiani triangles, tarts and other sweets.

Continue walking on David Aghmashenebeli Street towards the river, past St. John the Baptist Church, and you will soon reach the Aghmashenebeli Bridge. For a city of its size, Kutaisi has an awful lot of bridges – this one affords the best views in my opinion. Stick to the right-hand side to look directly out at Bagrati Cathedral and a panoramic backdrop of mountains over the Rioni.

After crossing into Rustaveli district, make a right at the first street at the end of the bridge and you will see a huge stone building. There is an abandoned hotel on one side, but the other half is empty – hollowed out and reduced to a skeleton, with foliage springing from the cracks.

Nicknamed the ‘Kutaisi Colosseum’ because of its many arches, the old military academy was built in the second half of the 19th century. Apparently the Bessarabia regiments from Tiraspol in Moldova were stationed here during the Russian Empire. The building was abandoned after the army exited Georgia. You can climb inside to see the ruins – but do be extremely careful as there is a lot of broken glass and other debris around.

On the next corner, you will see a modernist building with Russian and Georgian letters on the facade. This is the former Hotel Tbilisi, once a luxe accommodation and now a home for IDPs. Not unlike the repurposed sanatoriums in Tskaltubo, the building is in a desperate state of disrepair.

Cross at the intersection and walk down Tabidze Street. The long, water-damaged yellow building with barred windows and a watchtower is Prison #7, where a young Joseph Stalin was incarcerated in 1903. Around the next corner on Chechelashvili Street there is a Soviet-era building with a hammer and sickle medallion on the facade.

Explore the big market

Jump on the #1 city bus or hop in a taxi to Kutaisi’s big market, located near Kutaisi II Train Station and the main bus terminal. This huge complex of open and covered bazaars stretches out along the main road for several city blocks.

Have a good poke around and see if you can find the huge second-hand clothing market and the Imereti Hall, with its faux-marble pillars, fountains and Romanesque statues. The fruit and veg section, a cavernous warehouse space, is part museum with painter’s canvases hanging above the stalls.

If you like Soviet-era mosaics, there are a couple of large-scale panels in the vicinity of the market:

At the eastern end of the market, close to the last two mosaics, there is the colonnaded entrance to Youth Park. Formerly the Pioneers Park, it dates to the Soviet period and features paths lined with palm trees and retro playground equipment.

Photograph the abandoned Georgian Parliament Building (optional)

Did you know that Kutaisi served as the legislative capital of Georgia for a short spell? President Mikheil Saakashvili relocated the Georgian Parliament to Kutaisi in October 2012, and the legislature sat here until the end of his term in January 2019.

The ultra-modern Georgian Parliament Building is just a 15-minute walk from the market, so if you want to stop by for a photo, this is a good time to do it.

The futuristic design is the work of Spanish architects Alberto Domingo and Carlos Nazaro. Built in 2011-12, it features a 100-metre-tall glass and steel dome wrapped in a white ribbon of concrete.

The controversial project cost an estimated 57 million GEL, and was never fully embraced by Kutaisi nor by politicians. Today the huge building lies abandoned – much like the Rike Park Concert Hall in Tbilisi, another of Saakashvili’s failed ventures.

Back in town: Grab a local lunch at Bikentina’s

Take a bus or taxi back across the river and enjoy a local lunch at Bikentina’s Kebabery. This no-frills diner serves meat kebab swimming in spicy satsebeli tomato sauce with a half-loaf of bread and a tap beer on the side – and all for just 10 GEL. There are no chairs, only a few raised benches where you can stand up and chow down!

Alternatively, Papavero is located just around the corner inside the Mon Plaisir arch and has a beautiful vine-strewn courtyard. Or if you’re sticking to the other side of the river, Lowenbrau Pub is a local restaurant with good BBQ dishes and a nice outdoor beer garden.

Take the bus to Tskaltubo

After lunch, board a marshrutka van at the end of the Red Bridge (from this point) and travel to the town of Tskaltubo, 20 minutes north-west of Kutaisi. The ride costs 2 GEL. Pay the driver directly when you get out.

Known for its radon-carbonate mineral springs, Tskaltubo was a popular health retreat during Georgia’s years as a Soviet Republic. The town flourished under a state-funded program called putevki, which mandated all citizens of the Soviet Union to take spa vacations for at least two weeks every year.

At its peak, Tskaltubo had no fewer than 20 sanatoriums, most of which are now abandoned. In addition, there are many abandoned and still-functioning bath houses scattered around the leafy Central Park. Sanatoriums Metalurgist, Iveria and Tbilisi are among my personal favourites.

See my Mega Tskaltubo Guide for the best things to do in Tskaltubo, including the coolest sanatoriums to visit. It also includes the latest information about which sanatoriums are closed off and which ones can still be visited.

Important note: Some sanatoriums are still occupied by families who were resettled in Tskaltubo following the conflict in Abkhazia. Be cautious and courteous when visiting the area – do not venture into anyone’s apartment by accident, stick to the common spaces and entryways.

Back in town: Ride Kutaisi’s retro cable car

Bus it back to Kutaisi (flag down any van travelling the opposite way – a good place to wait is outside the Sports Palace) for another unique Kutaisi experience: Climb inside the red or yellow wagon on Kutaisi’s Soviet-era cable car and sail across the River Rioni.

The gondola operates from midday until 9pm daily. The short ride up to the theme park that overlooks Kutaisi costs 3 GEL. For an even better view, spend another 2 GEL to take a spin on the retro ferris wheel.

Finish your evening with khinkali and beers at local’s favourite El-Depo.

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4 days in Kutaisi: Add on a Kutaisi day trip

If you have 4 days in Kutaisi or more, I suggest you venture further from the city to enjoy the landscapes around Upper Imereti and Samegrelo.

Here are three day trip options. For a full list of suggested day trips and alternative destinations – including hot springs and tea fields – see this guide.

Option 1: Chiatura, Katskhi Pillar & Mgvimevi Convent

Two hours north-east of Kutaisi by road, Chiatura is a mining town home to a famous network of Soviet-era cable cars. In 2021 the ropeways were replaced with new and improved lines and carriages, but it’s still worth visiting Chiatura to see some of the old station buildings and the other Soviet throwbacks.

Katskhi Pillar, a monastery perched on top of a stalactite, and Mgvimevi Convent, which clings to a cliff wall, are also in the same area. I also recommend stopping at Zestafoni to see the incredible Soviet-era mosaics and eating lunch or dinner at Lia Deida off the highway in Argveta.

You can do this day trip using public transport (marshrutka van from Central Bus Station) or, more conveniently, by booking a GoTrip driver for the day. This itinerary I created starts from 45 USD including unlimited stops and door-to-door transfers.

→ For all the best things to see and do, see my comprehensive guide to visiting Chiatura.

Option 2: Kutaisi canyons, caves & waterfalls

This popular day trip covers three attractions north-west of Kutaisi: Martvili Canyon, Okatse Canyon, and Prometheus Cave. The nature in this part of the country is beautiful and this excursion is suitable for families with children.

Located in Samegrelo region, Martvili is a lush green and turquoise canyon that used to be a private bath for the royal Dadiani family. Today you can walk a short path around the rocks and take a quick trip in an inflatable kayak down the river.

Okatse Canyon is much deeper and has an elevated metal boardwalk. The 1.4-kilometre-long Prometheus Cave is also very impressive, and can be explored on foot or with a short boat trip when conditions are right.

Sataplia Nature Reserve is another good option for nature lovers. It’s located very close to Kutaisi, and has walking trails, caves and kids’ activities. During winter, many tours visit Sataplia instead of Okatse (the walkway at the canyon is closed if there is heavy rain or snow).

Because these sights are spread out, it’s best to visit the area as part of a guided tour. Budget Georgia, my preferred company in Kutaisi for private and small group tours, runs trips to the caves and canyons throughout the year.

→ Check prices and availability here on Viator or book direct and save 10% off the cost of your tour when you mention Wander-Lush.

→ For more information and travel tips, see my guide to visiting the caves and canyons near Kutaisi.

Option 3: Vardzia Cave Monastery, Borjomi & Rabati Fortress

This long day trip from Kutaisi involves a minimum of 5 hours driving each way. If you don’t mind travelling a bit further, it’s a great option for both history and nature.

Vardzia, Georgia’s most impressive cave monastery, is around 230 km south of Kutaisi. Borjomi resort and Rabati Fortress in Akhaltsikhe are both located along the way and make for convenient stops.

You definitely need a tour for this itinerary – it’s not logistically possible to use public transport. I highly recommend joining Budget Georgia’s small group tour, which has departures throughout the year, including in winter.

→ Check prices and availability here on Viator.

Back in town: Dinner in Kutaisi at Toma’s Wine Cellar

If you get back to Kutaisi in time for dinner, Toma’s Wine Cellar is the perfect place to eat dinner on your last evening.

Tucked away in a residential area, this family-run restaurant specialises in home-cooked Georgian food (think chicken in walnut sauce, sausage with sour plum sauce and Imeretian khachapuri) prepared by Toma’s mother and wife. Dinner is accompanied by wine from the family vineyard and delicious compote prepared from seasonal fruit.

The set price per person includes huge portions of food and is inclusive of a half-litre of house wine and two shots of chacha. Advance bookings through Facebook are recommended.

I couldn’t think of a better way to end your time in Kutaisi!

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How to get to Kutaisi

If you’re flying into Kutaisi, see this guide for tips on how to get to the city centre from the airport.

If you’re already in Georgia, Kutaisi is easily accessible from almost everywhere else in the country, with both minivan (marshrukta) and train connections available.

Trains to Kutaisi

I always prefer to travel by train when I have the choice. This is mainly because of road safety issues.

If you’re coming from Tbilisi, Gori or Poti, a good tip is to take a train to Rioni Station instead of Kutaisi I Station. These trains are faster and much more comfortable. Check times and buy tickets (up to 10 days in advance) via TKT.GE.

When you arrive at Rioni, you can take blue city bus #3 to the city centre. If your train arrives at night, you might like to pre-book a transfer through GoTrip or your guesthouse (Bolt taxis are not always available).

Marshrutka vans to Kutaisi

Marshrutka vans to Kutaisi are available from every city and town. Depending on your starting point, you might have to transfer through another hub such as Zestafoni or Khashuri.

Note that minivans travelling from east to west (i.e. from Tbilisi to the Black Sea) no longer pass through Kutaisi city – they use the new bypass road.

Kutaisi Central Bus Station is located on the western side of the Rioni River, next to the McDonalds (see the location here). To get to the city centre, take the blue city bus #1 (it stops in front of the station, near the pharmacies). The bus runs in a loop (there are two variations, 1R and 1L for clockwise and anticlockwise), and costs 60 tetri per ride. In the centre, the bus will drop you at the Colchis Fountain.

If you have questions about transport or anything else, I highly recommend visiting the Kutaisi Tourist Information Centre.

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Onward travel from Kutaisi

See these guides for transport tips:

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Kutaisi travel FAQ

How many days to spend in Kutaisi?

1-3 days is the ideal amount of time to spend in Kutaisi. With just one day in Kutaisi you can see all the highlights in the city centre. 48 hours in Kutaisi is enough time to explore the historical districts, and with 3 days, you can spend some time on the opposite side of the river and explore Tskaltubo as well.

If you enjoy nature and urbexing, Kutaisi is a better base than Tbilisi, with multiple day trip options right on the city’s doorstep. Kutaisi is also the ideal gateway to Batumi and the Black Sea Coast, and to the mountains of Svaneti.

How to get around Kutaisi?

The best way to get around the centre of Kutaisi is to walk. If you want to go across the river, use the blue city bus #1, which stops at the big market and Central Bus Station. Bus #3 goes to Rioni Station and Kutaisi International University (if you want to see the street murals there).

Taxis are readily available in Kutaisi, too – Bolt app works but there are fewer drivers so you might have to wait a bit longer for a ride at certain times of day.

Is Kutaisi cheap?

Like the rest of Georgia, Kutaisi is an affordable travel destination. Prices in Kutaisi tend to be lower than in Tbilisi or Batumi – expect to pay around 20-30% less for accommodation and food.

Should I visit Kutaisi or Batumi?

Both! Kutaisi and Batumi are very different cities and both are worth visiting if you have enough room in your Georgia itinerary. Kutaisi is classically beautiful, with lovely architecture, historic sites and fantastic day trip opportunities, while Batumi has its own quirky architecture, street art, the Black Sea and excellent national parks nearby.

If you only have time for one and you need to choose between Kutaisi or Batumi, I would go with Kutaisi. It’s faster to reach from Tbilisi, and it’s a better base for travelling onwards.

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Have you been to Kutaisi? What did you think of Georgia’s second city? If you’re yet to visit Georgia, do you think you would include Kutaisi in your itinerary?

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