Lost in Lecce: A Baroque Jewel in Puglia, Italy

5. Embrace the Pastiochioto!

Lecce is a culinary dream, from pastries to pasta and fresh food. There are small markets within the medieval city, as well as a larger vegetable market near Porta Rudiae which is open from early morning to 2 pm. It was here I found stalks of gorgeous artichokes in season, fresh cheeses and vegetables still covered in earth from the ground. 

If you can, do a food tour to learn about Lecce coffee, Pastiochioto, the local bread with olives, or rustico leccese, which is puff-pastry filled with béchamel sauce, tomato pulp, fior di latte mozzarella and pepper.

Some of the restaurants I visited and recommend include Blu Notte, La Putea Osteria e Ristoro, Alle du Corti, and Animaterrae Resturant. The only quirky thing I found was that when I offered a seat in a restaurant, that the tables seating four people were often much nice than those for two, which were often near the kitchen. When I asked to change tables, I was told that I couldn’t sit at a table for four, even when the restaurant was empty. Needless to say, I walked out of several restaurants on principle.

6. Stay in a palazzo

A palazzo? Why not! Under the rule of the Kingdom of Naples since 1463, Lecce grew in importance until it became a lively cultural centre that developed trade with merchants from all over the world. As a result, there are palazzos everywhere, and many have been restored or converted into modern luxury apartments, some with ancient Roman ruins exposed by the glass floors.

For my week in Lecce, I found a beautiful family-owned apartment in the old town, once a former palazzo, with a view of the Duomo out my bedroom window and a terrace at the back. Owned by Francesco and his wife, the palazzo has been in their family for generations and it feels like a home. You can book it here.  The apartment is two floors up an enormous marble winding staircase with a metal gate at the top and there is no elevator (although I suspect the owner’s sons will help you carry your bags up, as they did for me). There are also some lovely boutique hotels in Lecce, including the Santa Chiara Hotel, which is very close to the main sights. Check booking.com to find one that suits you.