Falling in Love with the Hilltop Villages of France’s Luberon… Again

We taste a variety of oils, a little gingerly, having arrived just after breakfast, but surprisingly, olive oil on its own is perfectly palatable. My favourite is the “huile d’assemblage”, a mix of five olive oils. All are highly sought after and end up on tables as far afield as Dubai and Singapore, not to mention those of Michelin-starred chefs right here in France.

The Bruns have expanded into other preparations, including the famous Provençal olive tapenade, or olive paste, flavoured with lemon, or anchovies, or tomatoes, or chilies. They also concoct their own jams, highly original combinations of cherry/black olives, lemon/olive/ginger, orange/chocolate, and many others. Unable to choose, I buy a bunch, since they are available in tiny containers that are easy to pack.

We also visited Les Agnels, a fifth-generation lavender distillery owned by Véronique, whose ancestors began cutting wild lavender during the 18th century and distilling it in 1895.

She demonstrated the various processes, from old-fashioned stills to the more modern, automated methods, but mostly, we breathed in the lavender, from the traditional fine officinalis to the sturdier lavendin.

Everyone was fascinated by the plants’ many uses, whether in perfume or in oils used to treat such things as insect bites, muscle pains or arthritis. The ubiquitous lavender sachets were also available, made by a local group of handicapped artisans.

Another day, everyone trooped off to a wine-tasting visit at a local château which, being a non-drinker, I opted to forgo but the vineyard, too, was woman-managed and in the family for five generations. Those who did take part came back quite happy from their trip.