The 10 Best Restaurants in Kazbegi, Georgia

Mokhevuri or ‘mountain-style’ khinkali are the ‘original’ khinkali. They differ from kalakuri ‘city’ or ‘urban-style’ dumplings in that they have a simpler filling with no greens or spices in the mix. Usually this recipe uses beef or lamb meat exclusively (no pork). Khinkali kalakuri uses a ratio of 30% pork – thus this version might be less soupy and a bit firmer than what you’re accustomed to.

Mokhevuri khinkali are also bigger and flatter, with no ‘knob’. The dough is usually thicker and a bit chewy – just the way I like it!

Khabizgina

Khabizgina is a variety of khachapuri traditional to Ossetia. Instead of being filled with pure cheese, it also contains pieces of diced potato.

One of my all-time favourite Georgian dishes, khachoerbo is an extremely rich dish that you could compare to fondue. It is made by combining cheese (in this case cottage cheese or khacho) with erbo (ghee). Served molten hot still in the pan, you eat it by dipping pieces of bread into the delicious goo.

Different versions of khachoerbo are made with different specialty cheeses (both fresh and aged) across Georgia’s mountain regions, including in Tusheti and in Pshavi and Khevsureti.

Another knock-out restaurant in Kazbegi, Tiba is located on the opposite side of the valley on the hill overlooking Gergeti Trinity. You can get a glimpse of the church and high mountains from the floor-to-ceiling windows that fill the voluminous, open-plan restaurant with natural light.

Tiba is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Highlights include a khabidzgina with mountain potatoes and matsoni yogurt dough, and kartokha khinkali with potato, cheese and erbo. The kitchen also specialises in dishes from Western Georgia, including beef kharcho, Imeretian khachapuri, and Megrelian-style kvari dumplings (the latter also features on the breakfast menu).

In addition to the kvari, we tried the shakshuka with flatbread and the syrniki (cottage cheese pancakes) with raspberry compote. Everything was delicious, as was the coffee.

Tiba’s design is familiar, with two-tone walls, retro light fittings, and Soviet-period antiques and retro posters for decoration. If it’s warm enough, I recommend sitting outside on the small balcony.

• Location: 22 Marjanishvili Street
• Opening hours: 9am-10pm daily
• Contact: Facebook
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Qondari is a cute little homestyle kitchen in the centre of Kazbegi town. We were drawn in by the brightly coloured decor, and we were really impressed with the food.

The menu at Qondari spans all the Georgian classics with some creative options thrown in. Choose from a classic tomato and cucumber salad or a pumpkin salad with guda cheese and pomegranate sauce. The cold matsoni yogurt soup is refreshing for summer, plus there are four different types of khachapuri and a range of vegetable-based dishes.

I particularly like the chvishtari cheesy cornbread served with green adjika and batons of fresh cucumber, and the apkhazura (caul-fat meatball with barberry) which comes with mertsvi (tashmijabi), a warm cheese and potato puree. The ajapsandali wasn’t the best I’ve had, but it was a nice addition to the table. Next time we will try the Mokhevuri khinkali.

Qondari is located close to the Mountain Freaks office, making it a great place for a feast after hiking in Juta or the Truso Valley.

• Location: 68 Kazbegi Street (main road, near the intersection of Stepantsminda Street)
• Opening hours: 10am-10pm daily
• Contact: Facebook
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Everyone knows Rooms Kazbegi is the most iconic accommodation in Stepantsminda – and frankly one of the most popular places to stay in Georgia. Every time I come to Kazbegi, I make sure to visit the onsite restaurant.

The Kitchen occupies the ground floor of the retrofitted sanatorium and features a huge chalet-style lounge, a more intimate dining room, and a generous terrace. The views of Gergeti Trinity and Gergeti village simply cannot be beat.

I am never afraid to cut a place from a list if I feel the quality has slipped. People often criticise Rooms – but as a semi-frequent visitor for the past several years I think the food here is always reliable and the service is solid by Georgian standards.

The menu spans Georgian, European and cafe dishes with a huge variety of cuisines to choose from. We always order the Rooms Burger (despite recent reviews on Google Maps, I can assure you the size of the burger is more than sufficient – my husband who has an insatiable appetite agrees). On our most recent visit, I enjoyed the summer salad with strawberries and feta.

Prices here are a little higher than average (the burger goes for 34 GEL, for example). If you want the views but you don’t want to spring for a full meal, this is a great spot for coffee and cake (I recommend both the cheesecake and the Georgian sweet, medoki). The hotel’s buffet breakfast is also open to walk-ins.

There is plenty of space to stretch out, and the lounge is laptop-friendly.

• Location: 1 Gorgasali Street
• Opening hours: 8am-midnight daily
• Contact: Website
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Kazbegi Good Food

There are at least half a dozen humble, family-run restaurants in Kazbegi town. My favourite is Kazbegi Good Food, which has become something of an institution among hikers and budget travellers. It is indeed very good value for money, and the vibe couldn’t be more of a contrast to the more formal restaurants mentioned above.

Kazbegi Good Food is run by a very sweet elderly couple and has a duqani vibe. I recommend sticking with the basic favourites: mtsvadi barbecue, kupati sausage, hearty ostri stew, and khinkali.

Keep in mind that most of the seating is outdoors. We once ate here in spring when it was too cold to sit outside – the indoor area is fine, but it’s quite small.

Like many smaller establishments, this restaurant shuts in the low season. Their Facebook page is not very active so I recommend checking on Google Maps to make sure they are open. Or just do a walk-by: the location in the centre of Kazbegi, footsteps from the bus station, couldn’t be more convenient.

• Location: Off Kazbegi Street (near the WWII Memorial)
• Opening hours: Midday-8pm daily (summer only)
• Contact: Google Maps
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Some, but limited
• Payment: Cash only

Also located in the centre of town, behind St. Gabriel the Archangel Church and the museum building, Lunch at Maia is a family-run restaurant with a big courtyard dining area and an indoor hall. It was raining on our last visit so we sat indoors (it’s very dark inside, hence the grainy photo!). The environment gives you the feeling of eating a meal with other travellers, which is quite unique. Every time a table finished their meal and got up to leave, they said goodbye to the other diners!

Staff here are very sweet, but not much English is spoken. That’s okay though because they have a great system in place. When you arrive, you will be handed an English menu and a sticky note with a pen – just write down what you want to order, take it to the kitchen, and when it’s ready a staff member will bring your bill out with the food.

The khinkali here were a bit too dry for my liking and lacked in flavour. We also tried two soups: the lentil soup (not actually lentils, but some sort of grain) and the kharcho soup (nice, but skimpy on the beef). We thought the soup portions were very small.

Despite the name, the restaurant is currently only open for dinner service – remember to check Google Maps for updated opening hours before you go.

• Location: 5 Chavchavadze Street
• Opening hours: 5pm-10pm daily (summer only)
• Contact: Google Maps
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Cash only

This restaurant on the ground floor of the City Plaza Hotel (formerly Hotel Stancia) is located smack-bang in the centre of Kazbegi, right opposite the bus station and behind the Alexander Kazbegi statue on the main square. If you want something central that is a little more upmarket than the two eateries above, this is my top choice.

The restaurant is located at the back of the hotel and looks out over the river, with a lovely vista of Gergeti Trinity and the mountains from both the dining room and the terrace.

The menu of soups, salads, pastries and hot Georgian dishes covers all bases. We always go for the potatoes (either home-style or Mexican), and I really like this restaurant’s mkhlovani pie made with spinach and cheese.

• Location: Kazbegi Square
• Opening hours: 11am-11pm daily
• Contact: Facebook
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Kade is a bar-restaurant located off the highway outside Kazbegi, roughly a 20-minute walk from the centre of town. If you have a car – or if you don’t mind working a bit for your meal – this is a nice alternative to the busier restaurants in the centre.

Kade is one of the only restaurants in Kazbegi that is open past 10pm (and serves food until the wee hours!). It is also the best place in Kazbegi for nightlife. There is normally live music or a DJ set every Friday and Saturday night throughout July and August.

The main part of the restaurant is a pavilion with big windows that look out over the forest. You can also sit on the opposite side of the road by the river at one of the tables or lounge on a hammock strung between the trees.

Kade has a lunch-dinner menu of Georgian fare (mtsvadi, khachapuri, salads, stews) and a full bar with draught beer (Kazbegi Beer, of course!), bottled craft beer including Black Lion, cocktails, and wine.

• Location: Main highway
• Opening hours: Midday-late daily (summer only)
• Contact: Facebook
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Located on the grounds of the Dariali Monastery complex north of Kazbegi in the Dariali Gorge, this cafe has a nice menu of Georgian favourites plus pizza. The best thing to order here is the Monastery Cheese Board with monk-made fromage, accompanied by a glass of the monastery’s finest homemade draft wine.

• Location: Inside Dariali Monastery complex
• Opening hours: 10am-9pm daily
• Contact: Google Maps
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Tsanareti (Arsha)

This popular local restaurant in Arsha village is a convenient stopover on the way to Kazbegi from Truso, Juta or Gudauri. The menu is huge, and will not leave you wanting for anything. Interesting dishes include the tsvenkhortsi (spiced lamb soup), kada khachapuri with crispy pastry, and kombostoiani khachapuri with spiced cabbage. I have heard good things about the beef in sour plum sauce.

• Location: Main highway (Arsha village)
• Opening hours: 10.30am-10pm daily
• Contact: Facebook
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

Pasanauri village is an essential stop on the Georgian Military Highway. There are a dozen or more roadside restaurants in the village that claims to be the ‘birthplace of khinkali’ (I am not sure about that!) – Korbuda is my personal favourite. This place was first recommended to us by a GoTrip driver, and it’s been our go-to ever since. It is relatively humble, but the juicy khinkali and khachapuri cooked to order on the stove will blow you away.

• Location: Main highway (Pasanauri village)
• Opening hours: 9.30am-10.30pm daily
• Contact: Google Maps
• Vegetarian/vegan options: Yes
• Payment: Card or cash

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