A Solo Trip to the Basque Region: Bilbao, San Sebastian and Biarritz

Exploring the region’s unique culture, food and heritage in northern Spain and southern France

by Karen Gershowitz

The Basque region, straddling northern Spain and southern France, is an area often forgotten by travellers to Spain.  I’ve visited Spain many times, but this was my first excursion into the area. I wish I’d come sooner; from the moment I arrived, I fell in love with its cultural richness, natural beauty, and food.

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The Basque region: fiercely independent

As I discovered when talking with a tour guide, shopkeepers and hotel staff, the Basque people are proud of their history and have a fiercely independent spirit. They are one of the oldest ethnic groups in Europe. Their language, Euskara, predates other European languages and is distinct from any other known language family. Most students in the region are bilingual, with Basque being their primary language and the language taught in schools.

In the modern era, the Basque Country has been a site of both industrial prosperity and political turmoil. The Spanish portion became highly industrialized in the 19th and 20th centuries, leading to significant economic growth. However, the twentieth century also saw the rise of Basque nationalism. The Franco dictatorship sought to suppress regional languages and cultures. In response, the ETA, a militant Basque separatist group developed. It engaged in a violent campaign for independence throughout the latter half of the century. In contrast, the French Basque region remained more rural and less industrialized, with its nationalist movement taking a less violent and more cultural-focused approach. Today, both regions have a reputation for their powerful sense of identity and their efforts to preserve cultural traditions.

Bilbao: A blend of modernity and tradition

With a population of about 350,000, Bilbao is the largest Basque city in Spain. I have wanted to visit Bilbao ever since the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao opened in 1997. The museum is a striking example of how contemporary architecture can play a pivotal role in the economic revitalization of a city. Bilbao had been suffering from an economic downturn. The Guggenheim’s construction marked the beginning of the “Bilbao Effect,” a term used to describe how a single, landmark cultural investment can transform the fortunes of a city. Known for its innovative design, the museum quickly became an iconic symbol of Bilbao. The Guggenheim has since attracted millions of visitors, significantly boosting tourism, spurring urban renewal, and revitalizing the local economy. It has turned Bilbao from an aging industrial city into a cultural destination.

The building is a masterpiece, with curving lines and shimmering surfaces that change with the light. I spent many hours there. Both outside and in, Frank Gehry’s architecture is captivating. Over the years, I’ve seen his buildings in many cities; for me, the Bilbao Guggenheim is his best.

To be honest, the art collection didn’t bowl me over, but the architecture made up for it.  Curving lines frame the view, which differs from each of the three levels. Light streams in and spotlights bits of the interior, changing with every passing cloud. There are walkways everywhere, which provide different perspectives. It is also possible to go outside to a terrace for a different viewpoint of the building and surrounding area.