The slow-train adventure that reveals a rarely seen side of Turkey

As the original Van Golu Express runs only twice a week in each direction (and without the longer stops afforded by its touristic counterpart), alighting in Elazig meant I’d need to stay there five nights, until the next Van Golu Express arrived. But with plenty to explore, this was no hardship. I headed uphill to the ancient town of Harput and its castle, and lived off koftesi beef meatballs with tomato paste. That said, unless you really like derelict castles – and meatballs – you’d be better off skipping this interlude and continuing directly to Tatvan. This I eventually did, finally reaching Lake Van, and the final stop on the Van Golu Express.

I had loved the bustling bazaars, the hearty local food and the ancient caves – but really, this trip had been all about the ride. Grudgingly, but running short on time, I booked a berth to Ankara: 27 hours in one go. A suitably grand end to a truly grand tour.

Essentials

Airlines including Pegasus (flypgs.com), Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) and Wizz Air (wizzair.com) fly from London airports to Ankara from £116 return. 

Van Golu Express couchette tickets between Ankara and Tatvan cost from £18 one-way (tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, the TCDD app, or English-speaking agencies such as Amber Travel: ambertravel.com). 

Kayseri’s Buyuk Hotel (kayseribuyukotel.com) has double rooms from £44 per night. Elazig’s Vizyon Butik Hotel (vizyonbutikotel.com) has double rooms from £43 per night. Van’s Indiana Hotel (indianahotel.com.tr) has double rooms from £24 per night. In Ankara, Jamie Fullerton was a guest of Crowne Plaza Ankara (crowneplazaankara.com.tr), which has double rooms from £125, including breakfast.