An Insider’s Guide to the Cultural Powerhouse of Mexico City

Mexico City’s Vibrant Neighborhoods

Each of Mexico City’s neighborhoods, or “colonias” has its own distinct character and charm. Coyoacán is the bohemian heart of the city. It is famous for its vibrant arts scene and for being the home of Frida Kahlo. In its lively central square, there are performers, craft vendors and, if you like people watching, loads of families, couples arm-in-arm strolling, and dog walkers. This is a very dog-friendly area. Make sure to visit Casa Azul, the Blue House, where Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived and worked. It offers an intimate look into the life of one of Mexico’s most iconic artists.

Culinary Adventures in Xochimilco

In Mexico, food is as much a part of the culture as it is in Italy. I spent a full day exploring food, agriculture, and nature in Xochimilco, an area at the extreme south end of Mexico City. To see this area, I took a food tour with Culinary Backstreets.

There were five of us on the tour. Our guide, Victor, met us at a café. Over coffee and pastries, he explained the history of Mexico City, the arrival of new cultures, and how they all contributed to modern Mexican cooking.

From there, we boarded a van and headed to Xochimilco. For the next three hours, we made our way through the market, stopping frequently to taste local foods, spices, and preparations. Our first bite was a churro. That was quickly followed by two different tamales, each wrapped in a corn husk.

There were far too many tastings to describe each one, but they were all delicious, all different, and I didn’t know about most of them. Victor did a wonderful job explaining what we were eating and why it is culturally important. A few of the highlights: tacos stuffed with squash blossoms and cheese, freshly made tortillas with salt (we watched them being made), and an “everything” taco that was amazing. By the end of the tastings, I was begging for mercy. I’d eaten enough for a couple of days.

I try to go to markets everywhere I travel and had spent time in other markets in Mexico. This one is special. It’s huge. The produce couldn’t be fresher or more beautifully displayed. When we walked through the fish and meat areas there wasn’t a whiff of anything. The shopkeepers were friendly and seemed happy we were interested.