La Alta Guajira: Colombia’s most beautiful and hostile desert

La Guajira stands out as a unique destination within Colombia’s tourism portfolio. It’s a must-visit for modern explorers and those who believe they’ve seen it all, seeking to be amazed once more by the pristine beauty of untouched and sparsely inhabited territories.

Located in northeastern Colombia, the La Guajira peninsula cascades into the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea. It spans an area comparable to countries like El Salvador or Slovenia, with temperatures ranging between 22ºC and 34ºC (71.6ºF–93.2ºF). The region boasts deserts, dry tropical forests, and a coastline shaped by bays, islets, coves, and landscapes sculpted by the relentless ocean winds.

The Upper Guajira – the northernmost part of the department – is one of the few places in the world where it’s still possible to truly lose yourself, disconnect – literally- and enjoy nature in solitude or with just a handful of companions.

It’s as if one were traveling back in time, with the desert seemingly frozen in an earlier era. Every corner is photogenic, proof of a place on Earth that offers such subtle and unparalleled beauty.

The region is captivating year-round. During the dry season, the land takes on ochre hues, while the rains transform the desert into a fertile expanse of green. Regardless of the season, La Guajira often offers colorful sunrises and sunsets, and starry nights perfect for spotting shooting stars and constellations.

Expert Navigators

Accessible by boat during the rainy season and by land in the dry season, La Alta Guajira invites you to discover hard-to-reach locations. Ocean winds make early-morning navigation a necessity. Public land transport is minimal at best and non-existent at worst. Most roads are improvised paths carved into the sand by vehicle tracks.

The desert’s harsh beauty demands careful planning and the use of authorized tourism agents. These experts navigate not only the land and sea but also the intricacies of Wayuu culture – the largest Indigenous group in Colombia, numbering 380,460 according to the 2018 Census.

For Andrés Delgado, manager of Kaishi Travel, the population now exceeds 900,000. Known as “El Cachaco del Desierto” (The City Paper’s print edition cover), Andrés has an intimate understanding of the region and the cultural dynamics between the Wayuu and the alijuna (white man in Wayuunaiki, the Wayuu language).

For 25 years, Andrés has promoted sustainable, community-based, and adventure tourism. Andrés is committed to benefiting local communities despite significant gaps in tourism infrastructure.

“Tourists need to be informed, and that’s where tour operators come in—to help visitors understand the destination and offer the best in gastronomy, transportation, lodging, and well-trained guides for a memorable experience,” he explains.

The Wayuu Spirit

La Guajira would be an empty land without its original inhabitants. It is the sacred site of the Wayuu, where lineage and land are as vital to them as their cosmology and traditions. This is where they teach their children to uphold their heritage to ensure cultural survival in the face of modern challenges.

Descendants of the fierce Caribs, the Wayuu are living proof of their ancestral culture. Traveling through “La Alta” means participating in their rituals and understanding the significance of their traditions. It’s learning about their intricately crocheted bags (mochilas), made with one or two strands of cotton, where each pattern tells a story and shapes their collective identity.

Visiting the region also means adhering to Wayuu customs. It involves staying in their homes or Rancherías, adapted as guesthouses offering limited water, a few hours of electricity at night, and satellite internet. Meals feature goat, freshly caught fish, seafood, squash, beans, yucca, and corn as the centerpiece of their gastronomy.

Overnight stays at places like Hospedaje Luz Mila allow visitors to explore the territory, including landmarks such as the northernmost point of South America: Punta Gallinas. Its precise location, marked by El Faro (a lighthouse at latitude 12° 30′ 46″), is where waves meet a rocky beach ideal for watching endless sunsets.

A Scenic Backdrop Like No Other

Remote beaches at the Taroa Dunes offer stunning ocean views, with the sun beating down and strong currents breaking against the shore. Essential items for visitors include water, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen, hats, towels, and comfortable footwear for climbing these “wandering mountains,” which reach up to 40 meters in height and span seven kilometers.

Visitors can rent boards for sand surfing or enjoy calmer parts of the bay. Nearby, there are amenities like cold drinks, bathrooms, and internet access. The region’s iconic hammock (chinchorro) can be rented for a lazy afternoon.

Another must-visit spot in Punta Gallinas is Mirador Casares, which offers breathtaking views of Bahía Hondita. The contrast between golden sand cliffs and the turquoise sea promises incredible photos, perfect for a selfie with the bay as a backdrop.

Punta Aguja is another hidden gem, featuring calm waters for swimming and cliffs overlooking the bay. Visitors can enjoy traditional snacks while waiting for sunset or contribute to reforestation efforts led by Asomanglares by planting saplings in nearby mangroves.

Tourism at El Cabo

Two hours south by boat from Punta Gallinas lies Cabo de la Vela, a favorite spot for kite surfing. With a more developed hotel infrastructure, its sandy avenues host around 200 establishments, including restaurants, shops, and over a hundred accommodations. To the north, near El Faro (the lighthouse), Hotel Utta offers guided visits to the nearby Ranchería Cultural Ipotshuru, located inland.

The Ipotshuru guided tour is educational, teaching visitors to plant cacti as part of the Yo Soy Colombia Turismo Sostenible reforestation program, supported by the German Corporation and Colombia’s national government. The experience includes stops at five stations showcasing Wayuu culture. Yolanda Ipotshiru emphasizes the importance of such activities in preserving their cultural identity.

“These activities take place in many rancherías, strengthening our culture,” she says, highlighting how cultural exchange through tourism helps professionalize the community.

This mission is especially crucial, as 40% of youth abandon their culture due to consumerism and influences from Venezuelan Wayuu, who share the territory across the border.

“We want them to leave, learn, and return,” Yolanda adds. “But when they don’t come back, it fills us with sadness, making us question what went wrong.”

Pilón de Azúcar and a Sacred Land

One of the most sacred sites for the Wayuu is Jepira, or Pilón de Azúcar, a 71-meter hill offering a 360-degree view of the region. At its base lies Playa Dorada, a tranquil spot for swimming near the shore. Nearby, shaded huts sell handmade mochilas and refreshments.

Jacinto, a 54-year-old vendor, reflects on the past in broken Spanish, noting that while there are more tourists today, competition has also increased. “Sales have declined,” he says, attributing this to the growing offerings in municipalities like Uribia, the Wayuu cultural capital, and Riohacha, the department’s capital.

When asked if he has any requests for the government, Jacinto responds stoically: “Nothing,” he says, as the wind whispers his quiet discontent.

An Experience for Every Budget

Cabo de la Vela also offers attractions like Ojo de Aguja and Isla Tortuga. Other must-see spots include El Faro, offering stunning panoramic views, and Playa Arcoíris, where waves crash dramatically against natural breakwaters. The ocean in La Guajira is powerful, its beauty deceptive, making it essential to heed safety warnings about swimming and transportation.

Travel costs vary depending on lodging, distance, and type of vehicle used for moving around. Most accommodations include meals and guided tours to key attractions. A five-day journey from Riohacha typically costs between USD$750 and $900, excluding airfare.

Exploring Upper Guajira is a transformative experience where luxury takes on new meaning, and the journey itself is as awe-inspiring as the destination.

This report was written with full editorial independence and is the result of an invitation by Kaishi Travel and Fontur.

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