Natlisgheba on Paravani Lake: How to Attend Georgia’s Most Extreme Epiphany Ritual
13 min readEpiphany or Theophany is an Orthodox Christian tradition that commemorates the Baptism of Jesus Christ in the River Jordan. It is marked every year on January 19.
In Georgia, this feast day is known as Natlisgheba.
All Eastern Orthodox countries hold special liturgies and rituals for the Feast of the Epiphany. And as the occasion revolves around the theme of water, in Eastern and Northern Europe where Epiphany occurs in the middle of winter, the ritual usually involves swimming or plunging into an icy lake or river.
Natlisgheba observances take place all across Georgia – but none is more extreme or more impressive than the ceremony at Paravani Lake on the Javakheti Plateau, AKA the ‘Georgian Arctic’. A hole in the shape of St. Nino’s Cross is cleaved from the frozen lake, and believers take turns to immerse themselves in the freezing water.
We were lucky enough to attend Natlisgheba on Paravani this year. I can honestly say it was the most epic winter experience I have had in Georgia, and one of the most moving days from my five years living here.
In this blog I will provide some background to the feast and recount our experience. At the end, you will find some practical tips for attending Natlisgheba in Georgia.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.
About Natlisgheba in Georgia
Natlisgheba marks the end of the Christmas/New Year period in Georgia. Most people know it as the day when people set fire to their chichilaki Christmas trees to symbolically discharge the troubles of the previous year and invite good fortune for the months ahead.
Natlisgheba rituals that take place within the church are less visible – I had no idea that ice bathing was a thing in Georgia until quite recently. Outsiders (and non-believers) are more than welcome to observe or get involved in Natlisgheba. In my experience, this is one of the most intimate and special celebrations you can participate in in Georgia.
Epiphany is preceded by 40 days of fasting. On January 19, a special liturgy takes place, followed in some churches by a communal feast.
A crucial part of Epiphany is the blessing of the water. Simply called Tsmida Tskali (‘Holy Water’) in Georgia, the sacred water is used to bless the congregation during the liturgy then kept for future services throughout the year. People are also invited to take bottles of water home to bless their homes. This is something we witnessed on Paravani.
All water is considered sacred on Natlisgheba. The tradition of submerging one’s full body into the water takes the ritual to the next level, and is considered a way to absolve one’s sins and summon good health.
This manifests in different ways in different parts of Georgia. In Martvili, for example, I am told that the priest blesses the river and invites his congregation to bathe on the bank.
On Georgia’s biggest lake, Natlisgheba involves a very intense form of cold-water immersion.
Epiphany on Paravani Lake: Our experience
Paravani Lake is located in Samtskhe-Javakheti Region in the far-southern part of Georgia, very close to the borders of Armenia and Turkiye. This area has special significance as it is considered to be the place where Saint Nino – the woman credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia – first set foot in the territory then known as Iberia.
Saint Nino is said to have spent several days resting on the shore of Paravani Lake before planting a cross in Akhalkalaki then setting off for the capital of Mtskheta. It was there that she would baptise King Mirian and Queen Nana, prompting them to declare Christianity the state religion. St. Nino’s Monastery and St. Nino’s Convent were both established in Poka on the lake’s shore in commemoration of the Cappadocia-born preacher.
You will notice that the hole cut from the ice on Natlisgheba takes the shape of St. Nino’s Cross. Unlike a regular crucifix, the arms are turned downwards – this is because Nino fashioned the cross herself from grapevines bound together with her own hair.
The cross is always cut the previous day on January 18. When we arrived at Paravani at 10am on Epiphany morning, we spotted three men in the distance with shovels and picks clearing the thick film of ice that had reformed overnight.
For context, this was by all accounts one of the coldest, harshest Epiphany days Javakheti has seen in recent years. As we neared the monastery, sliding over the icy road, we got caught in what I can only assume was a snow storm. Thick mist and fine snow flakes were sweeping across the plateau with such force, I thought the wind might topple our car.
As we pulled into the monastery carpark, we were relieved to see half a dozen people darting from one building to the next. It’s difficult to describe how harsh and frankly inhabitable Javakheti is in winter. After 40 minutes of driving through a white-on-white landscape with not a single soul in sight, it was a huge relief to see a sign of life.
Mama Paisi, the priest, met us in the carpark and motioned for us to walk down to the lake to see the jvari (cross). Had I been able to discern dry land from the lake’s surface, I might have been apprehensive to take those first few steps out onto the frozen water. But alas, the whole area was dusted with snow, and it was impossible to know where the shore ended and the lake began. As a plus, the thick layer of crunchy snow gave us good grip and eliminated any fears I had of slipping over.
In the lead-up to Natlisgheba, I had been quite nervous – what if we couldn’t find the cross? Paravani is, after all, the biggest lake in Georgia with a surface area of over 37-square-kilometres. Seeing it laid out before us on the ice was a special moment. We had made it. Those five-plus hours of driving it had taken to get us here hadn’t been in vain.
I only wish I had been there a day earlier to see how they managed to cut the cross so perfectly.
The inky blue cross was sketched out on the snow-covered lake, just a few patches of cloudy ice underfoot to remind us that we were, in fact, walking on water.
The sky was completely white so we couldn’t see the undulating volcanic landscape that I know so well from previous visits to Javakheti (including a trip last summer where I summited Shaori Mountain to look down over the lake from above). But somehow the complete lack of context and perspective made the cross feel even more impressive. It just hung there in space, like a topaz pendant resting on a creased white blouse.
At this point it was -8 Celsius plus windchill. Snow continued to whirl around us, and the wind knocked me left and right as I struggled to click as many photos as I could with my mittened finger. Ten minutes is about all I could take before I ran back to the warmth of the car.
Back in the carpark, Mama Paisi appeared again and motioned for us to go through the door he had just exited from. The monks’ quarters were exactly what I imagined – simply furnished, but most importantly warm.
Inside the zala, long tables were being set with plastic plates and bottles of mineral water and soda. Seated in the tiny kitchen in the corner, a woman was busy carving up a roast chicken with a pair of scissors. They were obviously expecting a crowd for the post-liturgy feast.
At 10.45am, we walked down the narrow hallway and through the back door to enter the church. A dozen of us stood in the tiny nave as Mama Paisi started his liturgy. By the end of the service two hours later, the church was completely full.
I don’t know if it was the harsh weather we had just come from on the lake contrasted with the warmth of the church – the stark white landscape juxtaposed with the glowing candles – but this was one of the most moving Orthodox services I have attended.
As part of the ceremony, Mama Paisi blessed a blue barrel of lake water. There were audible giggles from the crowd as he dipped his aspergillum in and flicked the water on our heads.
Towards the end of the service, a group of men and women dressed in high-vis – some of them with orange flotation devices strapped around their necks like travel pillows – appeared at the back of the church and joined the rest of the congregation in lighting candles.
At 1pm, we decided to duck out the back door. Just as we were leaving, two of the EMS crew tugged a five-metre-long ladder from its brace on the side of the monastery building and started walking it down towards the lake.
A big crowd had gathered on the ice, and I started to worry that we might have missed the main event. But we were just in time to see the ladder being planted into the water at the top of the cross, six-rungs deep.
Moments later, the first of the 20 or so brave people who we watched jump into the water that day made his way to the starting line.
Dressed in nothing but grey-blue trunks and with a big gold cross swinging around his neck, he grabbed the ladder and quickly lowered himself shoulder-deep into the lake.
As is customary, he dropped his head into the water three times, crossing himself each time he came up for air. The crowd watching in silent reverence as he then pivoted and swam a splashy lap up and down the long arm of the cross before ascending the ladder again.
After those first few trepidatious dips, soon a queue formed and the ladder was never without a pair of hands clasping it. We saw people of all ages and backgrounds take the plunge – and everyone did it a bit differently.
Most of the men approached the ladder in their briefs. The women were dressed in activewear or a cassock-like garment. Probably the most shocking was the older women who went into the lake fully clothed in their Sunday best – sweaters, boots and all.
Some people immersed themselves three times, while others could only manage a single dip. Some stood frozen waist-deep and never made it all the way down.
Towards the end, two acolytes appeared in their blue and crimson robes and slipped into the water without hesitation.
Bystanders stood filming their loved ones performing the ritual then rushed to pass them a dry towel as they returned earthside. The swimmers scampered back to their cars or to the monastery to change into dry clothes – the fierce wind racing across their soaked skin and hair must have been unbearably cold.
The mood was relaxed and upbeat as people gave little cheers for the swimmers. Those doing the swimming were understandably more steely throughout.
After an hour or so out on the ice, we headed back into the church to warm up. People continued to come in and out of the wooden door, walking laps around the periphery and lighting votive candles. People arranged their wet shoes in front of the old radiators beneath the icons.
We were on our way out when Mama Paisi appeared for the last time and beckoned for us to return to the back room. Two folding chairs were reserved for us, and we sat down with Saba and his family for some food – fried fish from the lake, pastries stuffed with mashed potato, and lots of red wine.
It was an incredibly kind gesture that reminded me of the hospitality I experienced on my first visit to Georgia back in 2017. It was the perfect end to the day.
Practical tips for visiting Paravani on Epiphany
Tourists, outsiders and non-believers are more than welcome to observe and participate in Natlisgheba. We were among a very small number of foreigners (less than 10) who attended the celebration in 2025. We were all welcomed with extreme warmth and generosity.
Photography and videography are acceptable. We saw many Georgians doing the same. Keep in mind that this is a religious feast – I recommend you remain respectful and discreet, especially during the liturgy.
If you plan to visit Paravani for Epiphany, here are a my practical tips. If you have any other questions please leave me a comment below and I will try my best to help.
Dates & times for Natlisgheba
Natlisgheba takes place on the same date every year: January 19th.
Upcoming dates:
- January 19, 2026
- January 19, 2027
- January 19, 2028
- And so on!
The liturgy starts somewhere between 10am and 11am. Latecomers are still welcome to join, so don’t worry if you are running late.
If you prefer not to attend liturgy and just come for the outdoor ritual, the ice bathing starts from around 1pm.
We watched for two hours. There were still a few people filtering down to the lake, so I would say it wrapped up at around 3pm.
This is an all-weather event – harsh conditions are the norm! The event won’t be cancelled, even if there is high wind and low visibility.
Location & how to get to Paravani Lake
Note that liturgy takes place at St. Nino’s Monastery, not St. Nino’s Convent in Poka. Here is the exact location of the monastery on Google Maps. Some of the photos on Google Maps show the convent church, not the monastery. The one you want is the outdoor altar in the field with a small cluster of buildings nearby.
The hole in the ice is cut from the edge of the lake very close to the monastery, and this is where the ritual bathing takes place.
St. Nino’s Convent is also worth visiting when you are in this area – the nuns run a superb gift shop with jams, cheeses, natural beauty products and other creations. It is located here.
Paravani is a 3-hour drive from Tbilisi or a 5-hour drive from Kutaisi. In winter when the roads are icy and visibility is limited, the drive might take significantly longer.
The best way to get to Paravani is with your own car. Winter tires are not mandatory for this part of Georgia, but you will absolutely need them. Antifreeze is also essential.
This year, the weather was particularly bad and the road was closed from the Tbilisi side. Anyone trying to get to the lake from Tbilisi was stopped by police in Tsalka.
For this reason, it is safer to approach from the west (via Ninotsminda) like we did. Although the roads were icy in the morning, the drive was manageable. The roads from Gamdzani to Ninotsminda had been cleaned by the time we left the lake.
Coming from Kutaisi or Batumi, you will need to take the road to Ninotsminda through Akhaltsikhe. The road from Bakuriani to Ninotsminda is partially unsealed at the pass and not navigable in winter.
When you arrive at the lake, you will see a small access road to the monastery marked by a sign. There is a parking lot right outside the monastery where you can leave your car.
If you don’t have a car, it might be possible to join a small group tour to Paravani. Our friends Giorgi and Patrycja (Georgia in My Heart) usually organise 1-night, 2-day Natlisgheba tours from Kutaisi. Get in touch with them for more details.
Where to stay nearby
I highly recommend you spend the night before Natlisgheba nearby in order to limit your driving on the day and arrive at the lake on time. The town of Ninotsminda is a 40-minute drive from Paravani and a natural choice. It has a couple of hotels/guesthouses and a handful of restaurants, plus markets and petrol stations.
We always stay at Hotel Sonya when we are in this area. I look forward to coming here – the hotel is modern and clean, and the family are lovely. Prices are extremely fair. I wish every small town in Georgia had a hotel like this!
Even closer to the lake, Family Corner is a guesthouse and restaurant run by the wonderful Samvel Margaryan, his wife Hasmik and their family. I have stayed here in the past – rooms are more dorm-style with shared bathrooms, but the place is clean and very comfortable. Samvel and Hasmik are the kindest hosts you could hope for.
What to bring with you on the day
Waterproof snow shoes and a waterproof jacket are absolutely essential if you plan to visit Javakheti in winter. Bring your gloves, a hat and a scarf – rug up as best you can.
Carry some small notes or coins to purchase votive candles for the service. I would also recommend bringing drinking water and some snacks with you.
There are bathrooms inside the small building to the right of the entrance to the church.
More festivals in Georgia
You might also be interested in…
Discover more from Slow Travel News
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
