A Complete Guide to Visiting Mestia in Winter: FAQ, Travel Tips & 13 Epic Things to Do

A comprehensive guide to visiting Mestia in winter, including essential travel tips and the best things to do in snowy Svaneti.

Unlike Tusheti or Khevsureti that close off completely in winter – or Racha and Kazbegi that both wind down considerably in autumn – Svaneti is unique among Georgia’s high mountain regions in that it has a second season in winter.

Mestia’s bars, restaurants and hotels reopen for the January-March rush, fueled by avid skiers and snowboarders who descend on the twin winter resorts of Hatsvali and Tetnuldi.

The slopes in Mestia are incredible – the best in Georgia, I would argue. But for me, a complete novice skier, the real draw is the snowy scenery and a chance to see Svaneti’s iconic stone towers crowned with white caps.

Having said that, a winter trip to Svaneti is not for everyone. Challenging roads and logistical challenges around skiing make pre-planning an absolute necessity.

In this guide, I will run through the key things you need to know before you consider travelling to Mestia in winter, lessons learned from my recent trip, plus the best things to do once you get there.

Can you drive to Mestia in winter? Are the roads open?

First things first: Yes, the main road to Mestia through Zugdidi is open year-round, including throughout the winter months.

This road is kept open for the families who live in Mestia for the full year, and for patrons of the two ski resorts. The drive from Zugdidi to Mestia takes around 4 hours in winter. You do not need a 4WD, but you do need patience and some experience with winter driving. Winter tires are mandatory between December and March 1.

Steep and damaged in sections as a result of landslides, the Zugdidi-Jvari-Mestia-Lasdili Road is far from fantastic. But it is not the worst road in Georgia, either. We have driven it in our own car twice now.

The road is periodically cleaned of snow and ice, but you still need to take great care when driving to and around Svaneti as not all village roads are properly maintained in winter (something we discovered when we hit ice outside Tetnuldi and got into a minor accident). Stay on top of weather conditions and possible road closures by following the GeoRoad Facebook Page.

The alternative Lentekhi Road that links Ushguli and Kutaisi is closed during winter. Even though it is now completely sealed (see my Svaneti Road Trip Itinerary for more information), it is not maintained in winter and the surrounding area carries a high avalanche risk. This road will reopen in summer (start of June approximately).

The (newly sealed) road from Mestia to Ushguli also remains open in winter, but it might be closed for periods if there is heavy snow. After our negative experience in Tetnuldi, we opted not to drive to Ushguli this time. Maybe next year!

Shared transport to Mestia (marshrutka vans), taxis and flights operate throughout winter, too. Find alternative options for getting to Svaneti in the ‘Tips’ section of this guide below.

What is the best month to visit Mestia in winter?

Snow starts to fall in Svaneti from as early as October. The ski season normally starts in late December (in 2024, the lifts started running on December 21) and lasts until mid April (in 2025, the date is set for April 20).

For the best chance of good snow coverage, I recommend visiting Mestia between the middle of February and the middle of March. It is less crowded then compared to the New Year period in January, and you can often find a good deal on accommodation (provided there isn’t a tournament taking place).

February is the peak month for cultural events in Mestia. The traditional Svan festival, Lamproba (see #3 below), takes place in mid-February. In past years, the Gemo Fest food festival has been staged to coincide with Lamproba, although it was not held in 2025.

February is very cold – during our visit, it dropped to -26 Celsius overnight – so be sure to dress appropriately.

If you’re primarily here for skiing, you might consider visiting even later in the season. There are plenty of powder days forecast for early March.

See Snow Forecast for detailed weather info. Check the status of the lifts and runs, and view live cams from Tetnuldi and Hatsvali, here on the MTA website.

Where to stay in Mestia in winter

Mestia has a huge number of guesthouses and hotels. In winter, I recommend staying as close to the Hatsvali ski lift as possible (if you intend on skiing) as transport to and from the lifts is limited (more on that below).

For our winter trip, we stayed halfway between the bottom lift and the centre of Mestia at Maximus Apartments. The property is quite new, the owner Tatia is very sweet, and the studio apartments are well-appointed (and very warm). We had a great sunset view from our window.

Last summer, we stayed at Hotel Lahili, a boutiquey hotel close to Hatsvali. If you’re looking for a chalet-style hotel with breakfast and an onsite bar, this would be my top recommendation.

Most accommodations in Mestia have central heating.

What to do in Mestia in winter

Here are my favourite winter activities in Mestia.

1. Go skiing or snowboarding at Hatsvali Resort

There are two separate winter resorts in the vicinity of Mestia: Hatsvali and Tetnuldi. Between them, you have access to 37 kilometres of groomed trails and 14 ski lifts.

I always assumed the runs in Mestia were only suitable for advanced skiers. This is not the case. Hatsvali probably has the best beginner area I have come across in Georgia – and because it’s so much quieter here than in Gudauri or Bakuriani, you don’t have to worry about getting in anyone’s way.

Hatsvali is the most convenient option as the bottom lift station is located walking distance from the centre of Mestia (see the location of the lower station here). Hatsvali has seven trails, including two green runs and one blue run with their own button lifts. These are all located at the middle station area, which can be accessed either by road (4WD only; parking available onsite) or by using the chairlift.

The top station, called Zuruldi, can be reached from the middle plateau using the second lift, an enclosed gondola. One red and three black runs start from the top station, which is located at 2,345 metres.

Non-skiers are welcome to take a joyride on the lifts up to Zuruldi Cafe (see #10 below). Mount Zuruldi is heavily forested, and the cable car ride to the top is quite scenic if there is fresh snow. The black runs weave through the trees, while the beginner’s area on the plateau is mostly clear.

The Hatsvali lifts run from 10am until 4pm weekdays and stay open an hour later until 5pm on weekends. Single paper tickets and rechargeable plastic cards can be purchased from the booth adjacent to the bottom lift station, with prices starting from 25 GEL for a ride up to Zuruldi and back. Both cash and card are accepted.

If you do plan to ski in Mestia, there are a few things to keep in mind. Gear hire is only available in town, not on the slopes, meaning you will have to bring everything with you. To get to the first lift, you can either take a taxi (the going rate is 10 GEL from Seti Square) or walk – but take it from me, walking 1.2 kilometres on the slippery, steep road alongside traffic is not much fun. There is limited parking (only a dozen spots) at the bottom lift station.

Tetnuldi is the most visually impressive ski resort in Georgia, hands down. Set amongst the gloriously high rocky peaks of the Greater Caucasus, the mountains somehow feel close enough that you could reach out and touch them. Every non-skier should definitely ride these lifts for the scenery.

The pristine pistes here are very spacious, and the crowds are normally light, which gives you an unmatched sense of freedom on the slopes. Unlike Hatsvali, this resort is above the treeline – it’s all smooth white slopes and undulating hills. Tetnuldi is celebrated for its freeriding and in February 2024, it hosted the Freeride World Tour.

The first Tetnuldi lift station is located near the Ughviri Pass, off the road between Mestia and Ushguli (see the location here). Getting there is more of a challenge – if you don’t have your own car, you will need to organise a taxi. There is ample parking onsite, plus a handful of bars and restaurants. There is one hire shop, but it is quite sparse so I would recommend bringing gear with you from Mestia.

Tetnuldi is open from 10am until 4pm daily (no night skiing on weekends). Prices are the same as at Hatsvali, and there is a ticket booth next to the bottom station. Note that if you purchase a multi-day or season pass, it is valid for both Hatsvali and Tetnuldi.

Mestia is renowned for its summer trails. While popular day treks such as Chalaadi Glacier and Koruldi Lakes (both of which I did last year) are off the cards in winter, there are opportunities to go snowshoe hiking in the vicinity of Hatsvali and beyond.

Zuruldi Mountain is the most obvious place for easy snowshoe hiking. At the top lift station, there is a lovely beech forest and a trail that leads to viewpoints on the Zuruldi Ridge. We saw a group hiking through the forest here alongside the ski run.

It is also possible to hike parts of the famous Mestia-Ushguli Trek with snowshoes. You can follow the summer path from Mestia to Chvabiani, or take a taxi to Lakhiri village and hike back to Mestia from there.

I highly recommend using a local guide for winter expeditions around Mestia – the avalanche risk is very high in some areas. You will also need proper waterproof gear in addition to snowshoes.

As a winter resort, one of Mestia’s main strengths is its cultural attractions – see #5-9 below. But compared to Bakuriani and Gudauri, it is quite limited in terms of other snow-based activities on the slopes. There is no ice rink, and tubing and tobogganing are far less common. This is definitely something to keep in mind if you are travelling with kids.

One thing Mestia does have is an adorable pack of Samoyed dogs. We first spotted these five fuzzy snowballs from the Hatsvali ski lift – they were frolicking through the forest.

A sled ride (a short circuit through the forest taking less than 10 minutes) will set you back 50 GEL, or you can pay 30 GEL to ‘communicate with the dogs’ and take photos. We watched a few people harness up for a ride. The Samoyeds’ owner gave them a quick tutorial and they steered themselves! I think you can ride tandem, if you prefer.

You can find the dogs at the Hatsvali middle station, directly to your left as you alight the ski lift. Unlike in Bakuriani, this is not an established park – the Samoyeds arrive in the morning and leave in the afternoon. 

Most of the off-slope winter activities in Mestia revolve around Svan culture and cuisine, which is completely unique within Georgia.

Lamproba is a once-a-year ritual that takes place in Svaneti on February 14. Come sunset, families in Mestia and in the villages gather in the cemetery bearing bundles of birchwood. It is customary to light a small fire by the graves of their relatives, an act that is said to ‘warm the souls of the dead’.

Lamproba rituals take place in all cemeteries large and small around Svaneti. I recommend going to the main cemetery in the centre of Mestia (see the location here), where there is also a big communal bonfire lit in front of the church.

Observing Lamproba is a very moving experience – I will always remember the sight of flames reaching up towards the tops of the Svan towers, the warmth of dozens of fires cutting through the icy night air. It is a solemn ritual, but we found everyone was in high spirits on the night and eager to welcome guests like us. Feasting (and drinking) carries on all through the night.

Located on the edge of town, close to the Hatsvali ski lift, the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is one of the premier museums in Georgia. If you need a break from the cold or you encounter bad weather, I highly recommend spending a couple of hours touring the exhibitions here.

The showcases on Svan culture, homelife and battle weapons are very interesting, but I particularly enjoy the collection of icons and religious objects gathered from churches around Svaneti. There are some truly remarkable works here.

In winter, there is a photo exhibition set up outside the museum that is free to view. We saw ‘Gimgamesh’ by Anna Kacheishvili, a collection of black and white photographs that document Svan rituals (in this case, the focus of the exhibition was Lamproba).

Another must-do in Mestia is climbing one of the stone towers that dot the town. Known as koshki, these medieval defensive dwellings have been standing here since as early as the 11th century. Many families have converted their ancestral towers into small museums.

Back in summer, we climbed three or four different towers in Mestia. This time around, we decided to visit the most popular tower-museum, which is owned by the Ratiani family. At 28 metres tall, it is the highest tower in Mestia. You can climb all the way to the top via a set of (very steep) ladders and pop out onto the roof to photograph a panorama of the town.

This is one of the only towers that offers a guided tour in English. The asking price of 15 GEL per person is very high for Mestia – but I do think it’s worth it. Our guide provided a vivid narration of the tower’s history and its use as a place of refuge for the 25 members of the Ratiani family during blood feuds.

There are some unique features to this house that you won’t see in other towers, including a gorgeous secret icon cupboard hollowed out from one of the wooden columns on the first floor.

The Ratiani Ethnographic Museum is open during winter from 10am until 10pm daily. Call the number on the door when you arrive and a guide will come up to show you around. Note that they only accept cash (no card or bank transfer).

Although it is brutally icy and can look a bit scruffy in winter, Mestia town itself is quaint, with its clusters of fortified towers and cobbled streets. It definitely feels more like a big village than a town – it’s not uncommon to see cows and horses roaming the streets.

The modern architecture of the Justice House and police HQ combine with chalet-style buildings to give downtown Mestia a unique look. Don’t miss Seti Square, the main park in Mestia, or the lovely statue of Queen Tamar nearby.

For the best views and photo opportunities, I recommend you walk up to Ushba Street, which runs parallel to the main Tamar Mepe Street. This residential road is elevated just enough that you can look out over a row of towers. On a clear day, you can see the street’s namesake, Mount Ushba, peeking over the roofline.

It is particularly nice to walk in this area at sunrise or sunset. One of my favourite restaurants in Mestia is located here, too – see #11 below.

Laghami Old Quarter is another great place for wandering and taking photos. Said to be the oldest residential neighbourhood in Mestia, it sits at the north-eastern edge of the town, two kilometres (or 30 minutes by foot) from Seti Square.

Laghami has some nice old towers and picturesque narrow streets. You do need to watch your step because it is always very muddy here, particularly in winter.

Perched at 2,340 metres at the top Hatsvali lift station, Zuruldi Cafe’s claim to fame is being the highest restaurant in Svaneti. The view from the wrap-around terrace is predictably phenomenal – unlucky for us, it was very foggy the day we visited. But I will never forget the mountain views from our trip last summer.

This is a big lodge-style cafe with a log burning fire in the centre surrounded by couches. The coffee is quite good (at 10 GEL for a small cappuccino, it had better be!), but we didn’t get to try anything from the menu because there was no food served on the day of our visit. It does get extremely crowded (and honestly, a bit rowdy) here, so it can be difficult to get a seat.

Back in town, Mestia has a few solid apres-ski options. KRK Bar is a popular drinking hole in the centre of town that stays open through the winter. At night, it’s not uncommon to see people flowing out onto the pavement, craft beer or wine in hand.

My favourite apres-ski is Twin Peaks, located on picturesque Ushba Street. The cocktails here are really excellent (I recommend the Ushba Sunrise), and they serve nice food. We always go for the Lushnu tacos, a Svan take featuring tashmijabi (cheesy mashed potato) croquettes. There is a cosy stove, and they have board games.

Cafe Laila is a very popular restaurant-bar on Seti Square. Unfortunately their summer program of live music doesn’t extend into winter. Hotel Lahili near the Hatsvali lift has a great terrace bar that is open to the public.

For your pre-ski game, Coffee Kor and Erti Kava Specialty Coffee both serve exceptional coffee. The former has a lovely outdoor terrace overlooking the town, while the latter also serves breakfasts that are on-par with their cafes in Tbilisi.

Svanetian cuisine is made for winter, with dough-based dishes such as kubdari (meat-stuffed pie) and petvraali (khachapuri with millet) taking pride of place on the table. I also recommend trying tashmijabi, a delicious potato mash infused with stringy cheese, and any dish that is spiced with fragrant Svanetian salt.

As well as Twin Peaks and Cafe Laila mentioned above, there are a few other restaurants I can recommend in Mestia. Vichnashi, a very humble home-style place near the bus station, is without a doubt the best value for money in Mestia. Everything we ate here was exceptional, especially the petvraali and the chicken shkmeruli, which comes in a garlic sauce so thick it’s more like a fondue.

Lushnu Qor is a reliable choice for Georgian fare. The courtyard is closed in winter, but the indoor dining room is quite pleasant. Chalet Mestia is spacious and professionally run, and Blue Mountains has a beautiful view of the river.

Note that some outdoor restaurants including BBQ Garden are closed during winter.

Svan people are incredibly proud of the film Dede, which was produced in 2017 by director Mariam Khatchvani. Grounded in real events, it is both fascinating as a documentation of Svan traditions and life in the mountains, and tragic. It was filmed in Svaneti, with multiple residents of Ushguli cast as extras.

The tiny Pub and Cinema Dede on Mestia’s main street plays Dede on a loop throughout the day – 7 days a week, 365 days a year. In winter, there are three evening sessions at 5pm, 7pm and 9pm. The film is in Svan language with either English or Russian subtitles.

Tickets cost 20 GEL per person, and drinks (wine, beer, coffee) are available at the bar.

Practical tips for visiting Mestia in winter

How to get to Mestia during winter

As mentioned, the road to Mestia from Zugdidi stays open throughout the winter months and only closes for short periods when the weather is particularly bad.

If you plan to hire a car for Mestia, make sure it comes with winter tires, which are mandatory for this road between December and March. My preferred platform Local Rent provides winter tires free of charge.

Marshrutka vans continue to run between Zugdidi and Mestia during winter, but there may be fewer (or no) services if there is heavy snow.

You can also fly to Mestia from Tbilisi (Natakhtari) or Kutaisi with Vanilla Sky. I caution against them because tickets are very hard to get and in winter, flights often get cancelled due to poor visibility. When this happens, the airline will notify you the morning of your flight. They do not provide alternative transport – instead you have to join the waiting list for the next available plane.

Pre-booking a private road transfer with GoTrip is more expensive, but it is far more reliable than a flight and safer than the bus. Visit the GoTrip website to check prices.

For more details (including timetables and ticket prices), see my Mestia transport guide.

How to move around Mestia

Driving within Mestia town is hassle-free, and we never had trouble finding a car park on the main square. There are limited parking spots at the Hatsvali bottom station, but there is plenty of parking at Tetnuldi. If you are coming with a car, I highly recommend choosing accommodation with on-site parking.

Walking in Mestia is a real trial – I have never experienced such slippery roads and sidewalks in my life. It was particularly icy for the first part of our visit – literally every step took huge effort and concentration not to fall over. Take care!

Getting to and from the ski lifts in Mestia is a bit of a logistical nightmare. It is quite a long walk to the first Hatsvali lift from town (20-40 minutes), and the road is very slippery. If you are carrying skis/snowboards, it’s very unpleasant.

Taxis are available to ferry you to the first lift from Seti Square or the bus station in Mestia. The going rate is 10 GEL per car. Drivers also wait at the bottom lift station in the afternoon to take people back into town. Taxis can also take you to Tetnuldi – ask around at the bus station or organise a driver through your accommodation.

You will see these little white Suzuki trucks (pictured above) all over Mestia. I was told that skiers pile into the back of these cars to travel to the slopes, but we never saw them used this way.

Where to hire ski gear

Mestia’s ski shops are all located in town around Seti Square. We hired our skis from Soso’s shop, Ride Svaneti (located here), and we were very happy with the service. Hiring boots, skis, poles and a helmet for the day cost us 50 GEL per person.

I recommend going in the evening (between 6-8pm) to pick up gear for the following day (you are welcome to take it home with you). Multi-day hire is available. We had to leave an ID card as collateral. Both cash and card are accepted.

Ski instructors in Mestia

One thing we did notice is that there are hardly any ski instructors or ski schools in Mestia. I tried to organise a lesson through Ride Svaneti – they have a very professional website, but the instructor they referred me to did not respond to my messages. If you do want an instructor, you should try to organise lessons a few days in advance.

Shops, pharmacies, banks, etc.

Mestia has all the services of any small town, including multiple supermarkets (Nikora, Ori Nabiji, Spar), tone bakeries, pharmacies, and a hospital.

There are multiple banks and ATMs around Seti Square, including Bank of Georgia and TBC machines, plus a Basisbank branch with an exchange office. If you have a Wise card or an international bank card, Basisbank is ideal because it has a higher withdrawal limit for lower fees.

We found that we needed cash in Mestia as many restaurants refused to take card (they did accept bank transfer, but you need a Georgian account for this). Most of the smaller museums are cash-only, and many accommodations will only accept cash.

A note about electricity cuts in Mestia

Power cuts are unfortunately a big problem in Svaneti in winter – this article about Bitcoin mining draining the grid is an interesting read. If there is an outage, you might find the ski lifts are not operating. This is especially frustrating if you drive all the way out to Tetnuldi only to find the lifts are down.

Work to make the electricity supply more stable is ongoing. The resorts do have backup generators to get people down from the lifts if there is an outage. This is something to be aware of, and to practice patience around.

On a related note, there is good mobile coverage in Mestia and the surrounding villages (including Ushguli). If you are thinking of working remotely from Svaneti, 4G/5G works just fine in most areas. As always, I recommend using Magti.

More ideas for winter in Georgia