February 26, 2025

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Kutaisi to Zugdidi: A Photographer’s Guide to the Monument Route in Samegrelo

15 min read
An illustrated guide to the drive between Kutaisi and Zugdidi – the ‘Monument Route’ in Samegrelo. Of all the drives...

An illustrated guide to the drive between Kutaisi and Zugdidi – the ‘Monument Route’ in Samegrelo.

Of all the drives in Georgia I know and love, it’s the 120-kilometre (75-mile) stretch of highway between Kutaisi and Zugdidi that always gets me excited. I have driven this road dozens of times since I moved to Kutaisi, and I always manage to spot something new.

I have decided to coin this drive the ‘Monument Route’.

Traversing the lowlands of Western Georgia’s Samegrelo Region, this one-day drive is an easy way to see some of the country’s finest mosaics, monuments and memorials. As well as relics of the Soviet past – abandoned sanatoriums, former collective farms, Palaces of Culture – there are other ‘lost places’ sprinkled in, including palaces, synagogues and locations associated with the noble Dadiani family. This being Georgia, you will also find a noteworthy monastery or two.

The Monument Route is made for fans of urbex, avid photographers, and anyone who likes to venture off the beaten path. Whether you are headed to the mountains of Svaneti or the city of Zugdidi is your final destination, here are 30-plus places of interest to stop at along the way.


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How to travel the Monument Route

The Monument Route follows the main E97 Highway across the Odishi-Guria floodplain, passing through Abasha, Sujuna, Senaki and Khobi, plus the villages of Kakhati, Ingiri and Rukhi close to Zugdidi.

It can be incorporated into an extended road trip around Georgia or a road trip to Svaneti, or it can be done as a stand-alone day trip from Kutaisi or Zugdidi.

Drives like this one are always best done with your own car. I recommend hiring through Local Rent – this platform has multiple suppliers in Kutaisi, with round-trip or one-way (drop-off in Zugdidi) options available.

It is also possible to use GoTrip for this journey (just be prepared for weird looks from your driver when you request some of these unorthodox stops!). Here is an example GoTrip itinerary that I created for this route.

Marshrutka vans move along this road very regularly. You can request to jump off wherever you want, then flag down any passing driver to get a lift to the next point of interest. If you opt to use shared transport, I would start by taking a Samtredia-bound van from Kutaisi.

I recommend setting aside a full day for the 30-odd stops.


Where to stop between Kutaisi & Zugdidi

Samegrelo is a very old, very storied part of Georgia. Agriculture and industry began to flourish here after the Tbilisi-Poti railway launched in 1870, and in the Soviet period, there were a large number of collective and state farms established for growing tea, citrus fruit, corn, and other crops.

Many of the towns and villages mentioned here are worthy of their own full travel guides. But I am aware that most travellers do not have time to see each place in full. For this reason, I think it makes sense to put them together into one itinerary. 

Even if it’s just a superficial glance, that is still more than most visitors get. I hope this guide gives you some ideas for how to space-out the journey from Kutaisi to Zugdidi and savour what is an almost entirely overlooked part of Georgia.

Stop 1: Marani

Leaving Kutaisi, head south-west on the E60, passing the airport on your way out of town.

There are only a small handful of Soviet-era Culture Houses in Georgia that have been rehabilitated. Marani – a village on the railway line close to the Tskhenistskali River (which signals the end of Imereti and the start of Samegrelo) is home to one of them. (Another one is located in Shroma, an equally monument-rich area that I have previously covered in detail in this Guria Guide.)

The Marani House of Culture dates to the end of the 19th century and is said to have been designed by architects from Italy. It was reconstructed in the 1980s, and it’s these surviving Soviet-era design elements that were restored in a landmark project starting in 2022.

The main concert hall’s crimson chairs once seated 200 people – almost one-fifth of Marani’s population today. The walls and ceilings are adorned with plasterwork and paintings that evoke the muses. One fresco is signed and dated ‘Yuri Fipia, 1988’. The architect’s name is recorded as Valerie Nodia, and Bondo Tkvatsiria is mentioned as a second artist.

Young woman sitting alone in the middle of an abandoned theater with peeling walls, broken seats, and a faded Georgian inscription above the stage in Marani, Georgia.
Marani House of Culture (pre-renovation).

I first visited Marani when it was still abandoned and derelict. It looks quite different now of course (most of the original ornamentation has been faithfully preserved). I think it’s a wonderful thing that the community has their cultural centre back, and I would love to see more of this in Georgia. For the best chance of finding the doors unlocked, I recommend visiting Marani between Monday-Saturday after 10am.


Stops 2-6: Abasha

Continue on the same highway for 9 kilometres.

Abasha is a town of just over 4,000 people and is associated with the ‘Abasha Experiment’, a pilot economic policy that was instituted in 1971 and saw all of the municipality’s agricultural activities grouped under one management system. Incredibly, this was the ‘first private enterprise in the Soviet Union since Lenin’. 

A rise in productivity brought new wealth to the previously impoverished municipality, and many beautiful edifices were created in turn. I once met a vendor at the Dezerter Bazaar in Tbilisi who refuses to use anything except the best Abasha corn for her maize – so I guess the produce here must be pretty good.

Rusty red sign spelling 'ABASHA' on a metal structure, with vintage street lamps and political posters on a concrete wall in Abasha, Georgia.
Abasha.

On the way into Abasha, you pass several mosaic-adorned bus stops. The centre of town is instantly recognisable for its towering bronze column monument. The sculptural panels, reminiscent of the Chronicles of Georgia, depict imagery from Georgian folklore and depictions of Saint George blended with symbols of Soviet industry and transcendent cosmonauts.

Behind the monument and its newly refurbished square, the former Abasha House of Culture (now the Abasha Cultural Centre) is still used today for music recitals and other activities. Its lower level entryway sports incredible storybook murals inspired from Georgian mythology and children’s tales. In the back, there is an abstract triptych bronze sculpture and an ornamented niche with Qajar-style mirrorwork and stained glass.

Ornate interior of the Abasha House of Culture, featuring a detailed mural of a bride and groom on horseback, surrounded by figures holding candles, set within decorative wall panelling.
Abasha House of Culture.

On the opposite side of the square, the street-facing side of the Abasha City Hall features a huge metal sculpture of a radiant sun and billowing flags. Poke your head through the side door and you will see that the walls are decorated with colourful mosaics.

Colourful ceramic relief mural inside Abasha City Hall, featuring intricate patterns, animal motifs, and a bold red flowing design at the centre.
Abasha City Hall.

Abasha’s crowning glory is this wall mosaic on the facade of an apartment building on the next block. Attributed to the artist Vakhtang Nodia, it is composed of nine pannos that reference local industry and agriculture, with a pair of cosmonauts thrown in for good measure.

Large mosaic mural on the side of a building in Abasha, Georgia, depicting traditional Georgian scenes, including a woman on horseback, farmers, and celestial imagery.
Abasha mosaic by Vakhtang Nodia.

I love the subtle colours of this mosaic, and the artist’s use of small white tiles to give a speckled effect to different elements of each scene, unifying the panels. Opposite the mosaic, there is a small WWII memorial plinth with relief sculptures.


Stops 7-10: Sujuna

Sujuna is a short detour from the highway – a 20-minute round-trip from Abasha. Take a left at the petrol station after the market and follow the road for 4 kilometres.

Sujuna is an archetypical Megrelian village with dainty oda houses (wooden cottages with ornate fretwork balconies) set back on spacious lots. The village sits close to the Rioni River, and with the addition of a deep-water canal cut where Kolkheti National Park now is, it was used as something of a cargo port, with direct connections to Poti. The first harbour is said to have been founded here by none other than the Colchian King Aeetes.

A town of traders and merchants, Sujuna once had a diverse population of Jewish, Turkish and Laz families. The 19th-century Sujuna Synagogue is a testament to this period of history. Long abandoned and left empty, it is a modest building hidden under a canopy of low-hanging tree branches. Peek through the door and you will see that the wooden bimah is still intact.

Exterior of Sujuna Synagogue, an old yellow-brick building with arched windows, metal grilles, and a weathered wooden door, partially obscured by trees and a rusty fence.
Sujuna Synagogue.

Akaki Khoshtaria, famous for being Georgia’s ‘first millionaire’, was born in this village and in 1915, he commissioned a house here for his mother, Vardiko Avaliani. The Renaissance-style Khoshtaria Palace was stripped of almost all its ornamentation (aside from ceiling roses and some wall paintings) when it was seized by the Bolsheviks. Out front, two guardian lions and a beautifully ornate pediment remain.

It seems the palace was passed to the church at some point (St. George’s of Sujuna is right across the road and also worth a look-in). We saw several nuns coming and going from the building at the time of our visit.

Khoshtaria Palace in Sujuna, Georgia, an elegant but weathered historic mansion with ornate architectural details, arched doorways, and a grand staircase, surrounded by lush greenery and trees.
Khoshtaria Palace.

Back on the highway, there are two noteworthy mosaics in Dziguri, Abasha Municipality. The first is a bus stop with gorgeous ceramic mosaics, and the second is a low wall (a former square) with pannos that depict horse riders, vines dripping with grapes, and clay qvevri.

Colourful mosaic mural on a weathered wall, depicting a horseback archer, grapevines, and a traditional Georgian wine vessel, set against a backdrop of lush greenery and banana trees.
Dziguri square mosaic.

Stops 11-14: Senaki

Continue northwest along the E60 for 8 kilometres.

Senaki is a much larger city with an active air base and a population of 15,600 people. There are several points of interest here, all within walking distance – so I recommend finding a carpark and stretching your legs. The canteen-style Apetito is perfect for a cheap, quick lunch, and the friendly folks at the Senaki Public Library (below right) are always eager to welcome guests!

In front of the neoclassical Senaki Railway Station (quite beautiful itself from the outside, but devoid of any interior decoration), you will see an old automobile enclosed in a perspex box. Said to be the first motor car in Georgia, it was purchased by a Senaki nobleman named Varlam Gvatua in 1901. Directly opposite, the current Art School (formerly a gallery) has a very pleasing arched facade.

The five-storey apartment building next door has a lovely mosaic panel on its western side. Its rounded edges are contoured to accommodate the shape of a woman, who holds her hand outstretched towards the sun. Below her, bubbles contain vignettes of Gurian horsemen, farmers, tea pickers, and patchwork fields.

The baby-blue Baroque Revival Senaki Theatre was designed by the architect Vakhtang Gogoladze in 1959, and inspired by the State Hermitage Museum. It stands out as one of the most visually striking theatre buildings anywhere in Georgia (up there with the Tbilisi Opera House, in my opinion).

Grand neoclassical Senaki Theatre building with intricate white facade, arched windows, and decorative statues on the roof, set against a clear blue sky.
Senaki Theatre.
Lavishly decorated Senaki Theatre interior with an ornate blue and gold ceiling, a grand chandelier, and balconies adorned with golden drapery.
Inside Senaki Theatre.

It is an active theatre – I saw Romeo and Juliet here a few years back. If you get a chance to go inside, you will see that the ceiling of the auditorium is covered with delicate allegorical paintings. There is a sweet theatre museum on the ground floor, displaying old playbills and photographs. Check for upcoming performances here on Facebook.

In addition to the special theatre, Senaki’s WWII memorial is without parallel. Titled Cube of Memory, it was created in 1975 by the architect Shota Bostanashvili. Completely unadorned save for the dates emblazoned on its top corners, the concrete box is fractured with a chasm just wide enough to permit a person to squeeze inside. The inverse of the cube is layered with formless figures who drip from the ceiling like stalactites in a cave. It is hauntingly beautiful, and somehow reminds me of the Ta Prohm Temple in Cambodia.

Before departing, cross Central Park to see the current Student Youth House (pictured top left), with its fluted concrete facade and ribbon of arts-inspired bas-relief sculptures.


Stop 15: Menji

Menji is a short detour from Senaki – a 20-minute round-trip from the highway.

Meaning ‘acidic water’ in the Megrelian language, Menji (also called Tsivi) is a former balneological resort on the Tsivi River northwest of Senaki. There are several abandoned sanatoriums here in the same ilk as Tskaltubo.

Menji was given resort status in 1938, and also had its own railway station and a hospital. Around 2,000 people would travel here every year for recreation and to bathe in the mineral waters as part of their treatment for various health conditions.

The grand entry hall of the main Menji Sanatorium is topped with a Pantheon-style coffered dome supported by plaster Ionic capitals. The two long wings that extend out in either direction have small treatment rooms branching off, many with their wall tiles still intact. Chipped ceramic tubs are strewn around a bathtub graveyard.

Looking up at the domed ceiling of an abandoned sanatorium in Menji, Georgia, featuring intricate square coffers with ornate designs, now weathered and damaged.
Menji Sanatorium.

There is at least one other sanatorium in Menji. When we visited with a driver, he first brought us to this building with the cascading staircase and tall palm trees. It is completely gutted inside (and now used as a pig pen) so I don’t necessarily recommend venturing in.

Abandoned building in Menji, Georgia, with crumbling stone walls, overgrown vegetation, and a lone palm tree standing in front of a grand staircase.
A second former sanatorium in Menji.

Stops 16-20: Khobi

Rejoin the highway and continue northwest for 17 kilometres, taking the turnoff for the E97 towards Zugdidi instead of going straight towards Poti and the Black Sea Coast. Khobi Convent is located 5 kilometres from the highway – take the turnoff before you reach the town.

The town of Khobi was once a coveted pilgrimage site thanks to its repository of precious relics, which included a fragment of the Virgin Mary’s robe. The 13th-century Khobi Convent features exceptional stone elements that are thought to have been brought to Samegrelo from Gagra (present-day Abkhazia) where they were carved from Byzantine marble. This is one of the tombs belonging to the Dadiani family, who ruled over Samegrelo for centuries.

Intricately carved marble facade of Khobi Convent in Georgia, featuring arched windows, ornate geometric patterns, and crosses framed by decorative columns.
Khobi Convent.

In Khobi town, the star attraction is the Friendship of Nations Monument, designed by Zurab Tsereteli (of Chronicles of Georgia fame) in the 1980s. Erected in front of the Sports Palace, this monumental sculpture is absolutely iconic.

Bronze statue featuring a muscular figure with outstretched arms, holding a circular structure adorned with the sun, moon, and symbolic elements, set against a cloudy sky in Khobi, Georgia.
Friendship of Nations Monument by Zurab Tsereteli.

The sculptural complex continues in the adjacent square. The former House of Culture is wrapped in an impressive Jason and the Argonauts frieze that extends onto the roof of the building, with a three-dimensional sculpture of winged horses hauling chariots and muses bearing lyres, theatrical masks and other symbols of the arts. It is also attributed to Tsereteli.

In the centre of the square, a sculpture of an abstract tree trunk cast from the same material is adorned with eagles and an owl, possibly representing wisdom and the unity of the different Soviet Republics.

On the way out of Khobi, there are two former collective farms with mosaic decorations inside. The first, the former Kolkhoz of Subtropical Cultures ‘Kolkheti’, is located 750 metres back from the highway and has two vivid panels, including a very rare example of a Soviet-period mosaic where the text is written in English (it says ‘Peace’ and ‘Friendship’ in multiple languages).

The retro-looking farming equipment parked out front might have Cyrillic on the label, but these are made-in-the-PRC tractors dated 2011!

Weathered mosaic mural on a crumbling wall, featuring a figure in an orange outfit holding doves, with the words 'PEACE' and 'FRIEDEN' in colourful letters against a blue background.
Kolkheti Kolkhoz mosaic.

At the entrance to a second farm, the ‘Bantiadi’ Kolkhoz, there are some fragments of medallions that reflect the different crops grown inside (corn, tea, wheat).


Stops 21-26: Ingiri & Kakhati

The villages of Ingiri and Kakhati are located past Zugdidi towards the coast, but are well worth the 8-kilometre detour. If you have time, continue on this road to reach Anaklia, where there are some fantastic photo opportunities involving modern sculptures and abandoned hotels (see my Anaklia Guide for ideas).

Just west of Zugdidi on the railway line, Ingiri takes its name from the Enguri River, which flows behind the village and marks out the separation line between Samegrelo Region and Abkhazia. A statue of Shota Rustaveli stands in front of the former House of Culture, now completely abandoned and used as an animal shed. The sight of cows silently chewing their cud beneath painted ceilings is quite something.

A weathered statue of a Shota Rustaveli stands in front of an abandoned neoclassical building with arched windows and columns in Ingiri, Georgia.
Ingiri House of Culture.
Interior of a decayed building in Ingiri, Georgia, with ornate ceiling details and peeling walls, now repurposed as a shelter for cows.
Inside the Ingiri House of Culture.

The former Ingiri Tea Farm is a very interesting complex of buildings and monuments. A restaurant, Kingdom of Kolkheti, has moved into one of the restored buildings. Facing it, a huge fountain is decorated with underwater mosaics almost as vivid as the day they were laid.

A cantilevered building to the east looks like a concrete spaceship. Online, I found archival photos of a Vietnamese delegation (tea specialists, I presume) posing for a photo here in 1988. The sign for the farm has beautiful tea imagery in low-relief as well as a crest bearing Lenin’s profile and the hammer and sickle.

Abandoned modernist building at the former Ingiri Tea Farm, featuring an elevated structure on concrete stilts with an external staircase and weathered windows.
Ingiri Tea Farm.

A second tea factory further along the main road dated 1980 has some very interesting but sadly very damaged mosaics that depict tea pickers.

In the next village of Kakhati, Public School N1 has two brightly coloured mosaic panels on either side of the front door. One depicts parents, children and symbols of learning (one mother holds the Georgian book Deda Ena or ‘Mother Tongue’), while its counterpart shows children engaged in different sports (skiing, basketball, wrestling). I went to the principal’s office to request permission to take photos – the staff here are extremely friendly.

On the next block, there is yet another mosaic bus stop. This one is predominantly blue, with abstract clouds, crops and fields.

Rural bus stop in Kakhati, Georgia, adorned with a faded mosaic mural of abstract figures and agricultural motifs, with cows wandering in the foreground.
Kakhati bus stop.

The Kakhati WWII Memorial has a tiny mosaic panel made with larger tiles for an almost pixelated effect. The image of a soldier pointing his weapon in the air is based on the iconic photograph Kombat, captured during WWII by Max Alpert.

Soviet-era mosaic in Kakhati, Georgia, depicting a soldier in uniform raising a book, with warm earthy tones and a battle scene in the background.
Kakhati WWII Memorial.

Stops 27-30: Rukhi

Rukhi village is 8 kilometres north of Zugdidi. Using the backroad that bypasses the city, it takes around 20 minutes to get here from Kakhati.

The first major town on the ‘Georgian side’ of the Enguri River, close to the bridge and checkpoint that separates Samegrelo from Abkhazia, Rukhi must have been an important transit point back in the day. There is a high concentration of stunning mosaics here, all created in the 1980s by the artist Avtandil Mindiashvili.

This includes a long panorama mosaic in front of the House of Culture, which depicts tea pickers dressed in elegant long gowns and straw hats. I photographed this mosaic a while back – it has since been restored.

Intricate mosaic mural in Rukhi, Georgia, depicting elegantly dressed women in traditional clothing harvesting fruit, with stylised trees and geometric designs in the background.
Mosaics near the Rukhi House of Culture by Avtandil Mindiashvili.

At the Public School, there are two vertical mosaics similar to those in Kakhati. You can clearly see that a shiny new Georgian flag has been transposed onto one of the mosaics, replacing whatever used to be there (likely a Soviet symbol). The children in the image are dressed in Young Pioneers’ uniforms. I also met the principal of this school and he poignantly described these mosaics as ‘The only nice thing the Soviets left us’.

Nearby, a unique convex bus shelter containing a panoramic mosaic of polo players was co-created by Avtandil Mindiashvili and Kukuri Tsereteli.

Soviet-era mosaic at a bus stop in Rukhi, Georgia, depicting a dynamic scene of horsemen in traditional clothing, with political posters attached to the central pillar.
Rukhi bus stop.

Rukhi Castle is the final stop on the Monument Route. Constructed in 1647 by Levan Dadiani II to defend Samegrelo from Ottoman invasion, it has massive stone walls that reach up to 20 metres in some sections. There are parts of the ruined complex that you can safely climb for a view. Looking north, you can just spot the Enguri Bridge and the Abkhazian flag flapping in the wind.


End point: Zugdidi

Zugdidi is honestly one of the best cities in Georgia for monumental architecture and mosaics. If your road trip ends here, spend a day or two discovering the city. In case you run out of time en route, Anaklia and Rukhi are easy side trips from Zugdidi that you can do by public bus.

For full details and a diversity of other things to do, Zugdidi City Guide.

A vibrant Soviet mosaic in Zugdidi depicting a male athlete and stylised imagery of other sports.
My favourite mosaic in Zugdidi.

Map of the Monument Route

Here is an interactive map of the Monument Route to help you plan your journey. Always check road conditions before you set out – updates posted on the GeoRoad page.

Map of where to stop on the drive from Kutaisi to Zugdidi.

More ideas for urbex in Georgia


Travel Georgia Like a Pro

Planning a trip to Georgia? Here are 5 essential resources that I recommend you check out.

  1. For private transfers in Georgia: GoTrip.ge. Find a professional, English-speaking driver. Prices are locked in when you book & you can stop wherever you want.
  2. For hiring a car in Georgia: Local Rent. Save money when you rent directly from a local agent. Pick-up & drop-off are available from any address in Georgia.
  3. For finding accommodations: Booking.com. This website has the biggest selection of properties in Georgia, including guesthouses in rural areas.
  4. For Tbilisi tours & day trips: Friendly.ge. Friendly.ge has knowledgeable guides, safe drivers & creative itineraries. I especially like their off-road tour to David Gareja.
  5. For tailored advice: Book a call with me! My Georgia Travel Consultation service is perfect if you need feedback on your itinerary or personalised travel tips.
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This article has been archived by Slow Travel News for your research. The original version from Wander-Lush can be found here.
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