Slow Travel Along the Loire River Tributaries – FranceToday.com

But everything in the city, even the cathedral, resides in the shadow of the 9th-century Château d’Angers. Encircled by 17 pale sandstone towers, darkly striped with slate, this fortress is truly awe-inspiring. Once the seat of the dukes of Anjou (an honorific now claimed by the local, highly successful ice hockey team), it’s little surprise to learn that the castle has never been taken by force. Now beautifully restored – it’s even got its own boutique vineyard on the ramparts – the castle is also home to the UNESCO-listed Apocalypse Tapestry.

The 14th-century tapestry is six metres tall and runs for 140 metres around a low-lit gallery that takes some adjusting to after the bright sunshine. Super-sized medieval looms were built to produce what was, in effect, an enormous anti-English propaganda leaflet, created at the behest of Louis I, Duke of Anjou. Give yourself time to rest on the benches and slowly absorb the extraordinary detail of the narrative imagery.

When we emerge blinking from the gallery, we gather at an arch for a group photo. From beneath the arch, part of the original 9th-century part of the castle, it’s possible to see leafy Angers laid out below, the river snaking through. Close by, the Mayenne splits off into the Sarthe leading to Le Mans and the Maine, the smallest river in France, which takes you to the Loire. A watery junction splitting off to further adventures, destinations and, of course, long lunches.