Where to Stay in the Moroccan Sahara: Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga

For first-timers in Morocco, a Sahara desert camp experience feels like a must.

Camping (or glamping if you’re searching for a luxury desert camp) in the Moroccan Sahara is at the top of many travelers’ bucket lists—and for good reason.

With sunrises and sunsets over golden dunes, dromedary camel treks (resulting in stunning photos and memories), sandboarding/ATVing, and beautiful music and food by Berber locals, staying in the Sahara feels like an epic adventure.

But knowing where to stay in the Sahara can be overwhelming.

Which desert gateway town do you enter by, Merzouga or M’hamid?

Which dunes, Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga, are best for your itinerary?

I have camped in both parts of the Moroccan Sahara and will help you decide where to stay in this guide.

Below, read about each Sahara entry point, the desert camp options in each, and what it implies for your trip.

Where to Stay in Morocco’s Sahara: Choosing Between Chebbi vs Chigaga Dunes & Desert Camps

There are a few good-to-know things to consider before deciding which town, dunes, and camps you stay in the Moroccan Sahara.

First, your itinerary! How much time do you have?

If you have ten days in Morocco, you could do either route and have time for the High Atlas, Ait Ben Haddou, and Marrakesh.

However, if you have just one week or less, Merzouga will probably be the most convenient desert camp experience and choice.

Secondly, what type of experience do you want to have?

Merzouga, where the Erg Chebbi dunes are, is more touristy, accessible, and arguably crowded. But it also has lots (like, dozens!) of desert camp options—from luxury to budget.

M’Hamid, where the Erg Chigaga dunes are, is more offbeat, adventurous, and less crowded due to its remoteness and 4×4 vehicle requirement. It’s better for longer itineraries or those seeking a less luxurious desert camp.

Here is my overview and impression of camping in each—Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga—from two separate trips to the Moroccan Sahara.

Staying in Merzouga (Erg Chebbi)

Merzouga is by far the most popular choice when staying in Morocco’s Sahara for the first time.

It’s easy for short itineraries, implies a fun road trip loop from Ouarzazate with landmarks such as the Skoura kashbah, the Dades Gorge (and Todra Gorge), and Rose Valley, and is overall the best choice for beginners.

Another reason people choose Merzouga is that Erg Chebbi is home to the highest dunes in Morocco, up to 160m (500+ ft).

It is quite impressive seeing the Erg Chebbi dunes in the distance.

That said, you will definitely not be alone out here. There are dozens of camps (spread out), and you’ll see many other tourists sandboarding, ATVing, and riding dromedary camels at sunset.

Luxury Desert Camps in Erg Chebbi / Merzouga

While there are many desert camps spread across Merzouga, not all of them are luxury. And you have to be careful about which camps are legit and worth the money.

I can’t speak for all camps, but we stayed at the Sky View Desert Camp in Erg Chebbi, which was owned and managed by a Berber local and his family and friends.

The rate per night is a bit steep, but worth it for the luxury dome glamping tents with hot, running water, cozy decor, and extra-spacious rooms and bed.

The locals, cooks, and guides at Sky View also provided us with warm hospitality.

From home-cooked meals to traditional music around the bonfire, everything exceeded our expectations!

It was also really cool to chat with the owner Hassan, who I discovered grew up as a real nomad with his large family, moving from location to location.

As a digital nomad, it was quite interesting to hear how life in the desert has transformed and adapted to tourism over the years. And to think, it all started with one camel!

Other luxury camps that consistently get well-rated are:

Staying in M’Hamid (Erg Chigaga)

The other Sahara option is to drive south from Ouarzazate to M’Hamid El Ghizlane, where you will take a 4×4 vehicle off-road to reach the more remote dunes of Erg Chigaga.

Erg Chigaga is the largest erg, or sea of dunes, in Morocco, spanning over 40km (25 mi) across the horizon.

Out here, everything feels wilder. Much wilder.

And it takes effort to get here via a several-day camel trek or a 4×4 vehicle.

Our group rode in two 4x4s, and the ride was long, bumpy, and dusty! Make sure to wear masks and sunglasses—yes, while inside the vehicle, as the drivers may roll windows down. All of your stuff will be covered in sand by the time you arrive at your desert camp.

The payoff, however, is pretty spectacular.

Between the sunsets at Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga, the latter was definitely more sun-soaked, remote, and memorable. It was just us, for miles around!

Desert Camps in Erg Chigaga / M’Hamid

Erg Chigaga takes much more effort and time to reach, so there are fewer luxury desert camps here.

However, that doesn’t prevent a few camps from delivering awesome service, despite less-glamorous accommodation.

We stayed at the Mhamid Desert Camp owned by locals Larbi and his brother (whose name I’m forgetting!).

Our tents were basic but comfortable—just enough room for twin beds and a few carpets. We didn’t have showers, and running sink water for the bathroom just empties into a bucket.

Nevertheless, for one night it was totally manageable with wet body wipes (so pack a few of those!).

The Erg Chigaga desert camps are more like real camping—not as fancy as the ultra-luxe dome tents in Chebbi (except for a few encampments, which kinda spoils the fun in my opinion).

The basic lodging didn’t prevent our hosts from cooking us wonderful meals for breakfast and dinner, and the camels they sent us with for sunset seemed in good shape and decently taken care of by their guides.

So, Merzouga (Erg Chebbi) or M’Hamid (Erg Chigaga)?

It’s really tough to choose!

Having experienced both, I will admit that I preferred the remote wilderness of camping in Erg Chigaga over Erg Chebbi.

However, if it’s your very first time in Morocco, I’d say Erg Chebbi won’t disappoint. It’s also ideal for shorter itineraries (1 week, for example), whereas Erg Chigaga requires an extra night or two, considering the off-roading and drive times.

In sum, here’s an overview:

If you have any more questions about which one to pick for your desert camp experience in the Sahara—Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga—let me know in the comments, and I’ll try to help you choose!