The 15 Best Kutaisi Restaurants & Cafes for 2025: Where to Eat in Kutaisi, Georgia

A definitive list of the best Kutaisi restaurants and cafes for traditional Georgian cuisine, local wine and more.

Kutaisi might be small, but it’s one of my favourite places in Georgia. Not least of all because of its food scene.

While it might not have nearly as much variety as Tbilisi, take it from a fussy eater who has lived here since 2021: Kutaisi shouldn’t be underestimated. Imereti (the region Kutaisi belongs to) is famous for its fresh produce, bountiful herbs, village meats and cheeses, and of course its incredible wine.

Kutaisi’s restaurant vibe is definitely more low-key and intimate compared to the capital. Rather than trendy fit-outs and experimental menus, you can expect charming bohemian interiors, good old-fashioned home cooking, and live acoustic music or folk singing most nights of the week.

Whether you’re on a short layover or you are spending a few days in Georgia’s cultural heartland, here are the best Kutaisi restaurants and cafes to try.

What to eat in Kutaisi: Imeretian cuisine

Before I give my recommendations for where to eat in Kutaisi, I first want to make some suggestions on what to eat in Kutaisi.

Kutaisi is the biggest city in Western Georgia’s Imereti region, which is known for its fresh produce, fragrant herbs, and distinctive local cuisine. Be sure to visit the wonderful Green Bazaar when you’re in town to see what fruit and veg is in season.

Red meat is eaten less frequently in this part of Georgia, and khinkali dumplings do not traditionally appear on the menu (although many restaurants still serve them).

Vegetables and herbs are king in Kutaisi and most dishes are designed to highlight simple flavours and super-fresh ingredients. There are lots of vegetarian and vegan-friendly dishes available.

When in Kutaisi, I recommend you give the following Imeretian specialty dishes a try:

• Pkhali: Georgia’s famous vegan-friendly appetiser has its origins in Kutaisi, where thrifty cooks learned to combine vegetables and wild greens with crushed walnuts and spices for an easy, protein-rich, vibrant and delicious meal. In autumn, look out for pkhali made with ekala, a unique spinach-like plant.
• Clay pan mushrooms: Cooking food in clay ketsi pans over an open fire is a unique technique used in villages in Imereti. Mushrooms (soko) are often prepared this way, sautéed until they’re soft and juicy and topped with melty cheese.

Tip: Many restaurants in Kutaisi offer an Imeretian tasting board with a selection of different regional and seasonal dishes to share. The tasting board at Lilestan is my favourite.

Want to learn more about local cuisine and try your hand at cooking khachapuri? My friend Irma Laghidze offers culinary masterclasses in Imereti through her boutique company, Georgian Flavors. Read about my cooking class experience here, and enquire about making a booking here on the website.

What to drink in Kutaisi: Imeretian wine & more

After Kakheti, Imereti is Georgia’s second-biggest wine region. That means lots of local drops to sample at Kutaisi wine bars.

You can really taste the difference between wine produced in Imereti and wine from Kakheti. The climate in Imereti is more humid than eastern Georgia, which makes growing certain types of grapes easier.

Imeretian wine makers use different techniques, including less skin-contact time for their amber wines, which results in a lighter, fruitier taste.

Sparkling wine made from citrusy tsitska grapes and amber whites made from krakhuna grapes are popular in Imereti. Baia’s Wine, one of Georgia’s most popular export labels, is produced and bottled just outside of Kutaisi.

You can find Baia’s Wine at most bars and restaurants, and even visit the vineyard for dinner and a wine tasting (more on that later).

Kutaisi is a good place to try wines from Racha and Samegrelo, too. Two of my favourite Georgian wines, Khvanchkara and Ojaleshi – both semi-sweet reds – come from Western Georgia and are available at most eateries in Kutaisi.

You can also try local craft beer and apple cider made at Otia’s Ezo in Tskaltubo and served at WILD Bar (see below).

Laghidze Water, a natural Georgian lemonade, was invented in Kutaisi in 1887. If you haven’t tried the popular tarragon or chocolate soda water yet, the stall inside the Kutaisi Green Bazaar is a great place to do it!

My top Kutaisi restaurants for 2025

To start, here are my top recommendations for where to eat and drink Georgian cuisine in Kutaisi. Most of these venues serve at least a few Imeretian specialties and all showcase delicious seasonal produce from the region.

1. Doli – still my top overall pick

Even before Doli Kutaisi opened in late 2023, I knew it would fast become one of my favourite places to eat in the city. That’s because the company’s other restaurants – Craft, Weller, Madre, Giorgio, Chez Kinsky and Kobo in Tbilisi, and Doli Telavi – are among the best in Georgia.

Doli shares a historic townhouse with Communal Kutaisi boutique hotel. The twin dining rooms are very cosy and dimly lit, with an original ceramic fireplace there to heat things up in winter. The ambiance here is always special, particularly in the evenings. Note the archival photos, maps and drawings on the walls – they all reference Old Kutaisi.

The Western Georgian kitchen is inspired by both traditional Imeretian recipes, and Megrelian flavours from the next region over. I have literally tried everything on the menu and I enjoyed it all.

Highlights for me include the beef kharcho, which is extra saucy and goes perfectly with the house bread that is baked to order in a clay oven, the makali grilled meat (below right), the kebabi, and the kvari cheese dumplings. The khinkali here (a fixed plate of five) are also very good.

My favourite dish at Doli is the gobi (Imeretian board), a massive sharing bowl filled with half a dozen different varieties of seasonal pkhali, Imeretian cheese and cornbread. It is terrific value and every pkhali is incredibly tasty.

To top it off, Doli has a thoughtfully curated wine list that spotlights both local and European labels, and a nice cocktail card.

Doli also serves brunch from 9am-1pm daily. I had a chance to sample four of the breakfast dishes last year and have since been back to try some of the new additions made since. Believe me, the morning menu is every bit as delicious as lunch and dinner. I especially love the poached eggs on toast with umami-rich mushroom paste and Rachan lori ham. Talk about a perfect Georgian breakfast.

Tip: The restaurant is located on the first floor of the hotel building. Outdoor seating is also available around the pool. The big red door is heavy, so you have to give it a good push! From there, head up the stairs and make a left.

• Location: 21 Galaktion Tabidze Street
• Hours: Daily from 9am (dinner reservations recommended)
• Contact & info: Facebook

At the end of 2023, Kutaisi was named a UNESCO Creative City of Literature. Gala, a new restaurant that opened in spring 2024, is a tribute to one of Kutaisi’s most famous 20th-century poets, Galaktion Tabidze.

The restaurant’s big, light-filled dining space is beautifully decorated with sketches of Galaktion and other members of the Symbolist movement, quotes, and vintage novels. The main dining area has a ceiling-to-floor display of clay pottery, highlighting another Imeretian tradition.

Gala recently moved and is now located inside an unusual Soviet-period corner building near the Green Bazaar and above the book market. The former Children’s World department store was renovated a few years back and has remained empty until now. I’m glad they finally have a tenant!

The restaurant’s second-floor location offers spectacular views of the park (well, they will be spectacular once construction works are finished).

Gala isn’t just a pretty face – being the closest restaurant to my house, I eat here regularly and I am very satisfied with the food. My favourite dishes include the Kalia (a Georgian-Jewish beef stew with pomegranate that my husband describes as a ‘flavour bomb’!) and the ribs with spicy adjika.

The chicken shkmeruli and the special Imeretian dessert are both fantastic too, as are the khinkali for that matter. For drinks, there is a curated list of Imeretian wines plus local and imported beer on tap.

Gala is managed by restauranteur Lile Maglapheridze (of Lilestan, see below). Service is of a high standard, and the view over Central Park is excellent.

• Location: 29 Zakharia Paliashvili Street
• Hours: Daily from 12pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

Maisis Ezo is one of the youngest restaurants on this list, having opened in summer 2024. Despite knowing one of the owners personally, I must confess that my first impressions were less than stellar. But the team has put a lot of work into refining the menu and improving the quality of service.

It must be said that Maisis Ezo (‘May’s Yard’) is one of the most well-designed restaurants in the city. A lot of thought and attention to detail was put into the fit-out, created by local designer Ekaterine Abuladze.

The restaurant occupies a historic family home and boasts a huge yard and terrace, both of which are splendid for warm-weather dining. The formal indoor areas encapsulate the ‘Kutaisi style’ perfectly with their painted ceilings, vintage chandeliers, original wooden floors and doors, and heavy furniture.

The food at Maisis has come along in leaps and bounds. We recently ate our Christmas dinner here with friends and enjoyed each and every dish. The Adjaruli (pictured above right) is a house specialty, but personally I prefer the Svanetian-style kubdari meat pie. The satsivi, Mexican potatoes, clay pot mushrooms – and even the fresh-baked crusty bread – are all exceptional.

In late spring and summer, a majestic wisteria hangs over the front gate while at Christmas time, the yard and dining room are both decked out with spectacular festive trim.

• Location: 11 Jacob Gogebashvili Street
• Hours: Daily from 9am (9.30am on Sundays)
• Contact & info: Facebook

Lilestan is a gorgeous little bar-restaurant with a small open-air courtyard and a cosy dining room. The food, service and decor here are all consistently good, making it a great choice for a special lunch or dinner.

The menu features a generous selection of Georgian dishes, Imeretian specialties and European options. I really like their warm tarragon beef dish – it sounds strange, but it’s very tasty.

The salad section at Lile’s is particularly impressive, with lots of interesting flavour combinations (my favourites are the fresh grape salad with chicken and walnut, and the grilled pear salad with feta).

Sormoni is a special dining experience in a village on the outskirts of Kutaisi, a 10-minute drive from the Colchis Fountain via a sealed road. With tables set over a grassy hill beneath twinkling festoon lights and a west-facing panorama of the entire city, it is perfect for summer golden hour.

We have been to Sormoni several times now, and although the food is honestly a bit hit and miss, the atmosphere is always spot-on. If you’re looking for lively local vibes and a supra-like experience, this will satisfy your cravings.

There is live music courtesy of a three-piece folk band, who rove between tables and take requests. We once saw the clarinet player do a ‘deconstruction’ number, where he disassembled his instrument piece by piece (absolutely epic!). Another time, we watched a long table of Georgian men get up one by one to show off their dancing skills as the band played on.

Sormoni has a printed menu, but it is only in Georgian, and there are no prices listed. Waiters speak English, so you can ask them for recommendations. The mtsvadi here is done in a different style – and honestly, it is not to our taste. But I do like their salads, Imeruli khachapuri, and especially the pkhali.

In spring, you should order the ekala – a special Western Georgian pkhali made from the spinach-like plant – and in late summer and autumn, definitely go for the mushrooms. In general, I think the vegetable dishes (and the seasonal specials) are the kitchen’s strength. 

If you want to see an itemised receipt when it comes time to pay, go to the cashier desk inside. This restaurant is cash (or Georgian bank transfer only) – card is not accepted.

• Location: Sormoni village
• Hours: Daily for lunch & dinner (closed in winter; reservations recommended)
• Contact & info: Facebook

Located in a historic blushing-pink building on the edge of Central Park, Sisters has long been considered one of Kutaisi’s best restaurants among locals and visitors alike.

A big part of the reason is that the vintage decor and styling here is second to none. This place epitomises everything I love about Kutaisi. The owners have done a beautiful job of paying homage to the old building, using antiques from their village in Lechkhumi to highlight the former bank’s parquet floors and soaring ceilings.

Folk ensembles or solo musicians perform here virtually every evening in summer, and on the weekends out of season. The party rolls on until 2am. If you want to see live music in Kutaisi (or partake in a spontaneous polyphonic chant), this is one of the best places to spend your evening.

Sisters is wildly popular (I always find it full), and it stays open later than most venues. Unfortunately the quality of the food and the service has suffered a bit in recent years. Therefore I recommend coming here for a drink (and maybe a dessert) rather than for dinner.

Local wines (including Baia’s Wine) and craft beer and cider from Otia’s Ezo in Tskaltubo are served.

The entrance is a bit tricky to find: look out for the blonde wood doorway under the arches, then follow the stairs up to the second level.

• Location: 33 Paliashvili Street
• Hours: Daily from 2pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

Not to be confused with the restaurant in Tskaltubo of the same name (or the other Hotel Magnolia near the Chain Bridge), this Magnolia is located on the lower level of Hotel Magnolia at the end of the Red Bridge.

This is one of my top choices for good old fashioned Georgian fare in Kutaisi: mtsvadi BBQ, stews and soups, khachapuri, and of course khinkali.

As well as traditional pork-beef dumplings, Magnolia do their own version of khinkali with buffalo meat. A Mingrelian specialty, they are light, soupy, and packed with flavour. Other dishes including the chicken mtsvadi are served traditional Imeretian style in clay ketsi pans. I love their cheesy lobiani, which fuses Georgian khachapuri and Imeretian bean bread.

Magnolia’s location right on the Rioni River is unbeatable. Choose from a cosy indoor space with rock walls or – my preference – the outdoor balcony overlooking the water. The cool breeze and roaring sound of the rapids makes this my favourite outdoor dining experience for summer in Kutaisi by far.

Now that the balcony is now enclosed so you can sit outside in winter too.

Because it is attached to a hotel, the service here tends to be above par. The Georgian folk music gives the restaurant a bit of a touristic feel – but hey, embrace it!

Prices are a touch higher than some other restaurants on this list, but still fair for what you get. Expect to pay 60-80 GEL for a generous meal for two people. Portion sizes are large.

If you’re dining during the day, ask about their Happy Hour discount.

• Location: 2 Davit & Konstantine Mkeidze Street (end of the Red Bridge)
• Hours: Daily from 9am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Located close to the river, a short walk over the White Bridge, At Home is part wine bar, part restaurant. For a cosy drink, I prefer to sit in the basement area, which is perfect on a Kutaisi winter’s evening.

The outdoor garden is great for chilling out on a warm summer afternoon (look for the buried qvevri under one of the tables!), and the upstairs dining room that overlooks the mandarin trees is nice for lunch.

The menu here features all Imereti region’s greatest hits. The mixed grill platter (pictured above) is perfect for sharing over a bottle of local red.

I also find that the service here is above average – staff are attentive and helpful.

• Location: 7 Nikitin Street
• Hours: Daily from 11am
• Contact & info: Facebook

This is what everyone comes to Georgia for: To experience local hospitality, food culture and a supra, a traditional Georgian feast. You can eat at your family run guesthouse or hope to get invited to dinner by a local (actually not that uncommon). Or you can book a table at Toma’s place.

Located inside a house in a suburban part of the city, it doesn’t feel like a restaurant at all. When you arrive, Toma himself or a member of the family will greet you at the garden gate before giving you a short tour of the wine-making facilities in the basement. The family makes their own wine using grapes grown on a property 20 km outside the city.

There’s no menu at Toma’s. Dinner instead consists of a set four-course meal, served in one of two intimate cellar dining rooms. Toma is there to narrate every dish, explaining the different ingredients and cooking techniques.

Seasonal dishes are prepared by Toma’s mother and wife in the kitchen upstairs. Imeretian khachapuri is a mainstay. In summer, there will probably be a huge plate of jonjoli (pickled Colchis bladdernut, a flowering shrub found in Western Georgia) and eggplant with walnut, plus one or two meat dishes, salad, bread, and a selection of local cheese.

Half a litre of house wine (or a jug of compote), plus chacha is also included.

Toma’s is both small and popular, so it’s a good idea to make a booking in advance (just send Toma a Facebook message to reserve a table). The house is located on the other side of town, but a taxi from the centre shouldn’t cost more than 3-4 GEL when booked through Bolt.

• Location: Sergo Kldiashvili Street
• Hours: Wednesday to Monday from 3pm (reservations essential)
• Contact & info: Facebook

If you’re after a budget-friendly and tasty meal, there’s no beating Bikentia’s. A Kutaisi institution that long predates the arrival of fine-dining tourists, this is a working man’s lunch spot. Eating here as an outsider is quite an experience!

There are only two items on the menu. The thing to order here is the kebabi: homemade beef kebab (the long, thin, lula-style kind that’s cooked on a skewer, not unlike Balkan cevapi) drenched in a punchy, fiery satsebeli tomato sauce and topped with sliced raw onion and a fistful of fresh parsley.

One serving costs 12 GEL (cash only) and includes two pieces of kebab, a big wedge of white bread to mop up the sauce with, and either a tap beer or a bottle of Georgian lemonade.

The dining area is small and dimly lit. There are no tables or chairs, just two rows of wall-mounted counters where you can perch for as long as it takes to scoff down your plate (not very long!). I’m told that this is a typical Soviet-style arrangement.

When you arrive, order at the counter, pay first (remember, cash only!) and wait to collect your plates when they emerge from the kitchen cubby.

Grab a fork from the counter, dry it off with a square of butcher’s paper, and tuck in.

• Location: 9 Tsisperi Kantselebi Street
• Hours: Daily from 10am-9pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

This workers’ canteen is located in the bottom of an apartment block opposite the former Georgian Parliament Building (which is currently under renovation and will later reopen as a TUMO innovation hub). Similar to Bikentia’s, Dining Room Nikhrik opened during the Soviet period to cater to workers from the nearby factories and bazaris. But because it is outside the downtown hub, it feels way more authentic.

Set lunches are priced at 11-14 GEL, making this one of the most affordable meals in Kutaisi. You get a hearty serving of one of five mains, plus more bread than you could ever eat, and a bottle of Georgian lemonade. Pay an extra 1 GEL to update your drink to draft Herzog (beer is 2.5 GEL/glass, if it’s a liquid lunch you’re pursuing).

The mains available are ostri, kababi, khashlama, and chicken kharcho. We went for the signature dish, bivshteksi, which I presume is a Kutaisi take on Greek bifteki. Essentially it is an oversized meat patty submerged in a viscous, oniony tomato sauce-soup, dammed up with a little mound of mashed potato to stop the liquid running off the plate, a fried egg and a big fistful of chopped herbs on top. For 11 GEL, it ain’t bad.

The decor here is timeless – note the original serve-over counter, and the fabulous floor. There is even a drive-through – i.e. people park up on the pavement outside and honk for service!

There is no English menu, so it’s best to show a photo of the dish you’re after. Payment is by cash (or Georgian bank transfer) only – card is not accepted here.

• Location: 9th of April Street
• Hours: Daily from 8am-8pm

The best Kutaisi cafes for coffee & sweets

While its restaurant scene is strong, Kutaisi is somewhat lacking on the cafe front. Specialty coffee only arrived here in 2025!

My favourite take-away coffee is Cafes Richard, located on the corner near the Book Market, opposite Central Park. In addition to the tried-and-tested sit-down spots listed below, there are several new cafes that have opened in the past few months, including Cafe Koklozina (opposite the History Museum) and Stretto.

My top pick for breakfast in Kutaisi or brunch is Doli – see #1 on the list above.

12. Tea House Foe-Foe – best for Georgian tea

The coffee here is decent, but it’s the vast selection of teas that attract visitors. Iced and warm tea cocktails (Sicilian orange tea with Bacardi, green tea with mint and Bacardi, or black tea with red wine, orange and cinnamon) are perfect for after hours. There is a full lunch and dinner menu (with a focus on European dishes), plus waffles, pancakes and other sweets to pair with your beverage.

For an easy breakfast, I quite like the French-style crepes with cottage cheese and raisin filling.

• Location: Level 2, 8 Tamar The Queen Street (new location)
• Hours: Daily from 9.30am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Juicy Lucy is a fast-food restaurant first and foremost, flipping gourmet burgers and serving the city’s tastiest (and best-value) focaccia sandwiches. In 2025, they became the very first cafe in Kutaisi to offer specialty coffee. Hallelujah!

Beans come courtesy of Shavi Coffee Roasters in Tbilisi, who rightfully have a reputation for producing some of the best coffee in the country (many of my favourite cafes in the capital also use them).

Juicy Lucy has a nice set up, with a separate coffee-making nook. They do all the classics (to drink-in or to go) – plus a very decadent affogato (pictured above), which is rimmed with caramel and crushed peanuts, Margarita-style.

I only wish they opened earlier!

• Location: 12 Panjikidze Street
• Hours: Daily from midday
• Contact & info: Facebook

Tuta is a cute cafe-restaurant attached to a boutique hotel of the same name. The coffee here is good, and I am a fan of their pastries – in particular the cinnamon scrolls. Other sweets including a very good Basque cheesecake are offered on a rotating basis.

Tuta also has a build-your-own-breakfast menu, plus a-la carte dishes including eggs Benedict.

With Kutaisi’s best remote working cafe (Book Cafe, AKA Piatto) now closed, Tuta is my top choice for a place to work from your laptop.

• Location: 12 Galaktion Tabidze Street
• Hours: Daily from 8am-10pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

Coffee Bean is centrally located opposite the Glory to Labour Monument, and has a few tables on the sidewalk out front plus bar seating inside. Lavazza coffee is served here, and the baristas are great. This is another affordable spot to grab a takeaway coffee.

In the evening, Coffee Bean transforms into a sidewalk bar. It’s almost always overflowing with people.

• Location: Tsminda Nino Street (next door to Luca Polare)
• Hours: Daily from 9am

More Kutaisi restaurants for Georgian food

While the 10-plus restaurants above should be prioritised on your to-eat list, if you have more time in Kutaisi, these next venues are also worth a try.

This classy Kutaisi restaurant opened in summer 2022 and is one of my favourite places to eat when I feel like something a bit different. Every time I walk past, it’s packed to the rafters – so I don’t think I’m the only one!

Story is located just beyond the centre, past the old museum, behind a historic stone-and-brick house on Tsereteli Street. The dining room is moody and quite formal. You wouldn’t know it from the outside, but there’s a big terrace tucked around the back that faces directly onto the Rioni River. In summer, this is a popular place for sundowners.

The extensive menu has some really interesting dishes: Cream of beer soup, trout with raspberry sauce, mushroom chips with mashed potato. I personally love their chvishtari cheesy cornbread with cold yogurt sauce, and the tolma vine leaves stuffed with beef and rice.

On my second visit, I had to order the chicken mtsvadi with mashed sweet potato (pictured above) simply because I’ve never seen sweet potato on a menu in Georgia before! The meat was a little dry, but the flavours were great.

The chef’s version of chicken shkmeruli is one of the best I’ve had anywhere in Georgia: super succulent with an extra hit of garlic and a hint of hot adjika in the sauce.

• Location: 52 Tsereteli Street
• Hours: Daily from 12pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

Palaty (‘chamber’) is another Kutaisi institution and a safe bet for quality Georgian food. It stood out as one of our favourite restaurants on our first trip to Georgia – and I’m pleased to report that all these years later, the food here is just as good.

We have tried almost everything on the menu. Standouts for me include the pelmeni (Siberian meat dumplings in a hearty broth, cooked and served in a clay pot that’s sealed on top with pastry) and the kuchmachi, a local dish of heart and liver cooked with walnuts and pomegranate.

Khachapuri and pizza are also popular, and their Imeretian lobiani (bread stuffed with beans) is the best in the city in my opinion. Palaty is also a wine bar and offers a well-rounded selection of Georgian ambers and reds.

If you have a sweet tooth, Palaty’s pelamushi, a soft Georgian dessert made from condensed grape juice (a variation of the mix used to make churchkhela), is served with walnuts and colourful ribbons of tklapi fruit leather.

The upstairs dining room at Palaty is charming, but you should sit downstairs by the fireplace if you want to listen to the live piano, cello or violin performances that take place most nights during high season. They also have a small courtyard dining space around the back.

This place is very popular so bookings are essential.

• Location: Pushkini Street II
• Hours: Daily from 10am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Paolo is a Georgian-European fusion restaurant in the centre of the city with a mix of traditional and unique meals on the menu.

For example, you can order a classic chicken shkmeruli – a dish native to nearby Racha region – served with country chicken and lots of garlic (pictured below), or you can opt for something totally unique, shkmeruli with chicken and Chorizo sausage.

There are some old classics on the menu based on recipes from Barbare Jorjadze, a 19th-century princess and author who famously penned one of Georgia’s first cookbooks.

I love the interior here, especially the framed wine and cognac labels hanging on the side wall. They often have a band playing on weekends.

I’ve only eaten here once, but everything we ordered was delicious – plus my friend who is a Kutaisi local names Paolo among her favourite restaurants and I trust her recommendation!

• Location: 70 Tsereteli Street (new location)
• Hours: Daily from 11am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Argonauts opened in 2023 and has a great location on Kutaisi’s Central Park, right by the Magti shop. I must admit that my first visit was merely to see the Soviet-era bas-reliefs (signed by artists T. Gobejishvili, Z. Mgeladze and I. Adbutashvili) up close – but in the months that followed, I went back three or four times, including with friends who were visiting us from the UK.

At some point, Argonauts changed a bit – there was a new menu (with higher prices), the quality of service dropped, and I started hearing regular reports of people being overcharged for wine or charged for food they ordered but never received. These days the reviews are mixed. If you do decide to eat here, be sure to request the local menu and triple-check your docket at the end of the night before you pay.

I have always rated the food here pretty highly. My favourite dishes are the ajapsandali, khinkali, pork mtsvadi BBQ, eggplant with walnut, and the beetroot pkhali. Argonauts has beer on tap and a big menu of European dishes (pasta, pizza, burgers) if you’re in the mood for something more continental.

The owners of the old building have wholeheartedly embraced the Jason-and-the-Argonauts aesthetic gifted to them through the sculptures – it’s a bit naff, but I adore it!

• Location: 17 Tsminda Nino Street
• Hours: Daily from 10am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Much like Argonauts, ElDepot can be a bit hit and miss. I have had some excellent meals here, but I have also had one or two very sour experiences in the low season (the same old story of being charged for food I never ordered). Again, if you decide to eat here, ask to see an itemised docket in English before you pay.

ElDepot has been around for eons and is rumoured to serve the best khinkali in Kutaisi. I have to agree that the dumplings here are pretty good. The pork-beef filling is juicy and the dough just the right thickness. There’s a bit of a wait, so you know they’re cooked to order (and likely handmade). Veg-friendly potato and mushroom varieties are also available.

Their mtsvadi BBQ pork and chicken is another favourite of mine, served no-frills style with chopped onion and tangy plum tkemali on the side. Pair those two things with Georgian bread, a simple salad and a draught beer, and Eldepot is good for a budget-friendly sit-down dinner in the city centre.

The service here leaves a lot to be desired, but don’t let that dissuade you (just remember to check that docket!). It is almost always full, so I recommend arriving before the dinner rush if you want to get a seat.

• Location: 10 Ioseb Grishashvili Street
• Hours: 24/7
• Contact & bookings: 0431 24 42 73

Best international restaurants in Kutaisi

If you need a break from Georgian food, here are my favourite restaurants that serve international cuisine.

‘Modern European’ is probably the best way to describe these menus, though you should also note that most serve Georgian cuisine as well. There are a handful of Asian eateries in Kutaisi, too.

Papavero is located in the centre of Kutaisi and is the only good restaurant in the pedestrianised strip under the Mon Plasir arch. This is a crowd pleaser, with a huge menu of European-Italian dishes alongside Georgian fare.

I often order the Caesar Salad here – it’s generously dressed and comes with bacon, chicken and delicious croutons. Their pumpkin soup is also very good, and their ojakhuri (‘family style’ with meat, onions and potatoes) is my favourite in Kutaisi.

I highly rate the garlic bread, the chicken schnitzel, and the pasta here too. The only thing I’m not too fond of are the arancini balls.

You’ll have a difficult time deciding where to sit between the classic Kutaisi-style interior and the vine-strewn courtyard.

Cocktails, Georgian wine and live music keep Papavero swinging until late, while nothing beats a jug their strawberry kiwi lemonade on a hot summer’s day.

• Location: 5 Tsisperi Kantselebi Street
• Hours: Daily from 10am
• Contact & info: Facebook

There are at least half a dozen branded beer restaurants in Kutaisi that serve draught ale and food. They might not be the most conventionally ‘traditional’ dining option, but I can assure you that they are all the rage among Kutaisians. If you’re after that sort of local dining experience, they always deliver.

Most serve classic pub fare (chicken schnitzel, burgers, pork knuckle), but I come here for the Georgian food. (And if I’m being completely honest, I always order a side of onion rings or garlic bread done Baltics-style with dark rye.)

Hoegaarden is a reliable Belgian beer restaurant that I return to again and again. According to my friend, a local restauranteur, the chefs here do the best mtsvadi BBQ in the city. I concur. The khinkali are great, too.

I love sitting outside here in spring and autumn – the location in the Royal District, close to the White Bridge, is perfect for people-watching.

Other local beer restaurants you can try include Weihenstephan on Tabidze Street and Lowenbrau on the opposite side of the river.

• Location: 7 Tsisperi Kantselebi Street
• Hours: Daily from 10am
• Contact & info: Facebook

Located inside the Newport Hotel, this restaurant serves both modern Georgian food and international staples. The Deco-style decor is really beautiful, with comfy booths that are big enough for six people.

Signature dishes include steak with a peppercorn crust and potato mash, schnitzel with potato salad (I think this is the only restaurant in Georgia where I’ve seen real mustard seeds in the sauce), and a top-notch club sandwich with crispy bacon and creamy aioli.

The Blue Bar inside the restaurant serves some of the best cocktails in Kutaisi. My pick is the Newport Sling with gin, bitters and crushed ice (pictured above).

• Location: 1 Newport Street
• Hours: Daily from 1pm
• Contact & info: Facebook

Notable mentions…

If you’re looking for not-Georgian, not-European food, there are a handful of international restaurants that specialise in other cuisines.

My top picks are:

• Siam Thai – best Thai restaurant in Kutaisi (they even do khao soi – pictured below right)
• Pizzeria Dolce – best wood-fired pizza in Kutaisi
• Ionas Pizza – best American-style pizza in Kutaisi (pictured below left)
• White Elephant – best Indian restaurant in Kutaisi
• Juicy Lucy – best burgers in Kutaisi (also see above)
• Fleur – best chicken schnitzel in Kutaisi

For sushi and Japanese cuisine, there is Umai on Tbilisi Street in Sapichkhia district. And for more Indian food in Kutaisi, there is The Biryani House on the opposite side of the river, close to the bus station.

Another good pizza place in Kutaisi is Gelato Mio, the little ice cream shop on the main square. It’s thin-crust and delicious. Note that the pizza oven only works in winter, though.

I also have to mention Extrameat – yes it’s fast food, but they are a local business and they definitely serve the best burgers in Kutaisi! Extrameat has a big restaurant in the centre of the city on the park (opposite Hoegaarden) or you can order from them using the Glovo app.

More terrific restaurants near Kutaisi

If you are prepared to venture a little further afield, there are some very special Imeretian and Megrelian eateries in the small towns and villages around Kutaisi. Here are a couple of my favourites.

Located close to Gelati Monastery in Motsameta village, Agro Guesthouse Korena specialises in home-cooked Imeretian food. This is the perfect place to stop for lunch before or after visiting the UNESCO monasteries near Kutaisi.

The spread includes just about every Georgian dish you can name, with lots of different sides, tasty sauces and homemade wine. Many of the meals are prepared in the fire using clay ketsi pans, a traditional cooking technique in this part of the country.

They also do a mean Imeruli Khachapuri. If you’ve seen the new mural in Kutaisi behind the theatre that depicts a grandmother rolling khachapuri dough, that is a depiction of Dali, the real-life bebia who is a chef at Korena!

The house is delightful, with antiques and vintage decorations. In autumn and winter they light up the fireplace for a supremely cosy dining experience.

Lunch and dinner are available to walk-in guests along with cooking masterclasses. Advance bookings are mandatory – message Maiko on Facebook to organise a time.

• Location: Motsameta village
• How to get there: Bolt taxi (~ 10 GEL)
• Contact & info: Facebook

Located in the small village of Meore Obcha 20 minutes’ drive from Kutaisi, Baia’s Wine serves up some of the finest home-cooked food in all of Imereti.

To join the family for a supra-style dinner, winery tour and wine tasting, join the Wine and Dine Tour from Kutaisi with Budget Georgia.

I highly recommend Baia’s for home-cooked Imeretian cuisine and organic amber wine. Budget Georgia’s four-hour itinerary includes a guided tour of the vineyard and introduction to the wine-making process, hosted by Baia, Gvantsa or another member of the family. Guests then enjoy a wine tasting and sit-down dinner prepared in the family kitchen by Baia’s mum.

If you’re curious to know what it’s like to visit Baia’s, here’s a little clip from our afternoon at the winery! You can read more about our visit to Baia’s in this post.

Lia Deida (‘Aunt Lia’) is a very special restaurant. Hidden away in a small village off the main east-west highway connecting Kutaisi with Tbilisi and Batumi, it’s my favourite place to stop for a bite when I’m road tripping in Georgia.

I love the eclectic, charming dining room decked out with painter’s canvases and antique bric-a-brac. There’s also a pleasant garden area out front where you can sit in the summer.

The family that runs the restaurant are very kind. Not much English is spoken, but the handwritten menu is quite simple and easy to navigate: I recommend ordering the village chicken in blackberry (or whatever sauce is seasonal), the pkhali, and the mchadi cornbread.

• Location: Argveta (near Zestafoni)
• How to get there: Self-drive or Bolt taxi (~ 27 GEL)
• Contact & info: Facebook

Oda Family Marani (Martvili, 60 mins from Kutaisi)

Oda Family Marani is a well-known winery near the town of Martvili. It’s my top choice for a lunch spot when you’re visiting Martvili Canyon and the caves and waterfalls around Samegrelo.

The menu showcases Megrelian food and most meals are made with veg and herbs from the garden. Try the chicken wings with elarji sticks, and the Lamberti, a burrata-style gebzhalia and khachapuri hybrid.

Oda’s specialty is elargi – stringy cornmeal made with cheese – and there are several versions to choose from, including ghomi cooked in Ojaleshi wine with organic Racha ham. Yum!

The restaurant is only open during the summer months. Advance bookings are recommended.

• Location: Martvili
• How to get there: Self-drive or marshrutka
• Contact & info: Facebook