Across Cambodia: Temples, History, and Everyday Life – Part 2

Crossing into Cambodia marked a fresh chapter in my travels. After the sensory overload of Bangkok, arriving in Siem Reap felt grounding. The city itself is a sociable base, with everything you need in terms of affordable food and accommodation.

Siem Reap

I spent my first few nights at White Rabbit Hostel, a backpacker-friendly spot offering temple tours and evening events, great for solo travellers. Staying four nights in Siem Reap, I wanted to make the most of the vast temple complex of Angkor. The three-day Angkor Pass is essential for temple lovers, costing $62 and giving you time to explore the highlights at a relaxed pace.

Instead of diving into the crowds at Angkor Wat, I began the first day of exploration with lesser-known temples like the Roluos Group, which is quieter and atmospheric. The route to Chau Srei Vibol, recommended by our tuk tuk driver, took us through remote villages to an overgrown, crumbling complex where locals and their children led us around the ruins.

As with Bangkok, the street food scene is equally vibrant in Siem Reap so I splashed out on a private tour capturing the street food scene located around Pub Street and the Old Market Area. Food carts, pop-up grills, and casual vendors selling snacks and full meals from the early evening until late. Are you might expect the area is bustling, tourist-friendly but still authentic if you explore beyond the main strip. The Lok Lak was particulary good in a seated area next to a food cart.

Prasat Beng Mealea

Prasat Beng Mealea, partially destroyed by American bombing, was another highlight. A full-day tuk tuk tour was a bit pricey but if split with others, worth it for the solitude. I’d strongly recommend listening to a podcast like Real Dictators before arriving. Understanding the trauma of the Khmer Rouge genocide is vital. It’s a history that lives in the psyche of many locals, and without grasping it, you risk missing the motional depth that shapes the country.

Preah Khan and Neak Pea

The next day, we switched gears and rented bikes to explore the Grand Circuit – a great alternative to tuk tuk tours while still reaching incredible sites like Preah Khan and Neak Pea. The cycling lanes, safely separated from traffic, led us past serene rice fields and dense patches of forest, offering a peaceful contrast to the busy main roads. The route includes quieter temples nestled in nature, fewer tourists, and the chance to absorb the sights at a slower pace.

On the third day, I reconnected with the tuk tuk driver from my first day for the Small Circuit, timed perfectly to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat. Watching the first light creep over the iconic silhouette was breathtaking, a forgotten wonder of the world and an unforgettable way to start the day. The Small Circuit took us to some of the most impressive structures in Angkor, such as Ta Promh and the Elephant Terrace. Both days offered contrasting yet equally rewarding ways to experience the temples, whether by bike or tuk tuk, while supporting local drivers and guides who share invaluable insight into Cambodia’s rich heritage.

Siem Reap to Battambang

We initially looked into taking the boat from Siem Reap to Battambang, worth looking into with it being a scenic, slower option that’s often praised for its views of floating villages and river life. However, as it was the dry season, the route wasn’t operating. For those travelling during wetter months, it’s typically around $25 and takes 6–8 hours, depending on water levels. Instead, we opted for a bus, which was around $8 and took just under five hours. While less romantic than gliding down the river, it was efficient and straightforward.

Battambang

The Primprey homestay in Battambang was a peaceful escape on the town’s outskirts. Still fairly new, it had a relaxed garden space, free bikes, and a tasty breakfast included, an ideal place to recharge. In the afternoon, we joined a tuk-tuk tour including a ride on the famous bamboo train, once a vital local transport system, now an example of sustainable tourism supporting rural communities. The tracks cut through farmland and villages, with locals still relying on the train to move goods and people.

Phnom Sampeau

We continued to Phnom Sampeau, a mountain sacred to locals and steeped in darker history. There, we visited the Killing Caves – haunting reminders of Khmer Rouge atrocities – and finished the day at the Bat Cave, watching thousands of bats stream into the sky. Buying cheap food from nearby stalls helped support families run by women and children from nearby villages. Battambang itself is a great place to pause between bigger destinations, but you’ll need to explore a little to find its best cafes and food spots. I’d recommend The Fringe for affordable health food and The Lonely Tree Café for brunch, both near the centre and worth the detour.

Phnom Penh

From Battambang, we continued to Phnom Penh by bus—around 6 hours and roughly $9. While I didn’t fall in love with the city itself, particularly because many hostels are in the red light district and social spaces are harder to come by, the capital holds Cambodia’s most essential historical sites. Visiting the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (formerly S-21 prison) was a sobering, vital experience. Both tell the story of Cambodia’s recent genocide under the Khmer Rouge and the brutality inflicted on its people. I highly recommend paying a little extra for the audio tours offering the nuance and emotional depth necessary to truly understand what you’re seeing. These sites transformed how I viewed everything I’d seen and learned so far. They grounded the temples, landscapes, and people in a history that’s still painfully recent history every traveller should seek to understand.

Thrifty Gist

• Best Time To Visit
  • November to February
  • Weather: Coolest and driest time of year (25–30°C / 77–86°F)
  • Pros: Pleasant weather for exploring temples; clear skies for photography
  • Cons: Most crowded; book accommodation and sunrise tours well in advance
• Travel Tips
  • Register with your embassy if your country offers a service (e.g., FCDO for UK citizens).
  • Travel Insurance is essential for medical emergencies and theft.
  • Use reputable transport providers, especially when booking buses, taxis, or tours.
• Health & Hygiene
  • Vaccinations – Hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus are commonly recommended.
  • Food & water – Drink bottled water; avoid raw food from street vendors unless it’s cooked fresh in front of you.
  • Illicit Alcohol – Before consuming alcohol please make sure you know where it comes from