Unpacking Penang: A slow travel approach to the bustling Malaysian state

Malaysia’s state of Penang has established itself as one of the most popular weekend getaways in South-East Asia. With direct flights from the UAE coming in at just more than seven hours, it’s an attractive destination for those seeking a break that mixes urban getaway with island living.

Most visitors head immediately to the Unesco World Heritage Site of George Town, a buzzing urban cocktail of landmark colonial and Chinese architecture, hip boutique hotels, dazzling street food and gourmet fine dining.

But this luxuriant, tropical island – known for centuries as the Pearl of the Orient – also has a little-visited, unspoiled rural side, perfect to explore for a couple of days at a slow pace, far from the crowds that teem the streets of George Town.

My taxi from the airport heads in the opposite direction from the traffic jam to the island’s capital. Instead, it drives inland towards the sleepy town of Balik Pulau and the verdant heartland of Penang. Before long, the road is surrounded by rolling hills clad with thick rainforest.

The road to Balik Pulau

The lush interior is populated largely by Malay Muslims living in traditional villages called kampungs, where farmers continue to harvest rice paddies, cultivate tropical fruits and precious spices. Meanwhile on the coast, tiny fishing ports cling to the mangroves, with lively markets and incredible seafood restaurants.

And skipping luxury hotels for immersive stays is the way to do it in Balik Pulau. Opt for a slice of local life alongside a Malay family in a homestay, or try out the new trend of eco-friendly glamping locations popping up all over this part of the island.

First stop is the unique Malihom Private Estate, a hidden hill-top retreat 600 meters above sea level, surrounded by 16 hectares of dense jungle and durian orchards.

And getting there is part of the adventure; in the midst of heavy monsoon rain, the car barely creeps up a dozen hair-raising zig-zag bends until finally arriving at the reception.

The staff have prepared a spicy chicken curry and fried locavore vegetables for dinner, and as the rain pours down even harder, I finally make my way through fragrant flower gardens to settle down for the night in one of the resort’s two-storey wooden rice barn villas.

The next morning’s weather, as always in equatorial Malaysia, is another story, as the window opens to a spectacular view of the sun breaking through the tree canopy, still covered by a light tropical mist, the sea glinting in the distance. Simply magical.

Malihom is genuinely zen, with meditation corners, giant sculpture installations, walking trails and a to-die-for swimming pool. You could spend the whole holiday hidden away here, but the next morning it is time to carry on exploring.

The road to Balik Pulau passes stilt kampung houses with ornate tiled staircases, colourful mosques and smoky street food stalls selling traditional Malay specialties such as grilled satay sticks, delicious fried bananas and sticky kueh cakes made from glutinous rice and fragrant pandan leaves.

Fruits of rural Penang

The fertile surrounding countryside is a cornucopia of prosperous working farms. In colonial times, Penang achieved global renown for its place on the famed Spice Route, and at Ghee Hup Nutmeg farm, the owner, 83, proudly shows me the trees of his plantation, growing not only nutmeg, but also cloves, cinnamon, turmeric and splendid ginger flowers.

Next stop is the Tropical Fruit Farm, a sprawling 10 hectares of orchards dedicated to Malaysia’s irresistible exotic fruits – rambutan, dragon fruit, papaya, custard apple, pineapple and starfruit. The guided tour is fascinating, but everyone is just waiting to gorge themselves during tasting session afterwards.

Driving around this part of rural Penang, there are signs everywhere for durian farms. Known as the emperor of fruits, the pungent durian has become the island’s new black gold due to an endless demand from China, which seems intent on buying every durian grown on Penang. Most are open to the public for tastings, but at Bao Sheng, a third-generation organic farm, visitors can actually stay the night in surprisingly luxurious accommodation.

This quirky “farmstay” features private villas, swimming pool, the chance to taste the freshest durians just cut from the tree and enjoy a home-cooked meal in the evening. Travellers only need to note though that the durian season runs from May to August, and outside that period it is better to book a stay at the nearby Boulder Valley Glamping, another offbeat spot of adventurous safari tents set in a secluded valley of dense woods and giant monolithic rocks.

Catch of the day

There are also several fishing villages on this side of Penang that seem untouched by tourism and the modern world. At Pulau Betong, fishermen’s families still live in basic wooden shacks on the bank of river that flows into the Straits of Malacca.

From early morning, the village is a hive of activity as the boats unload their catch, which goes straight onto the dozens of stands in the daily market.

Locals from all around come to shop, and for foodies, there is a unique opportunity at the Jia Shang Seafood Restaurant, where if you don’t find what you want on their menu, then just choose something from one of the fishmongers, and the chef will transform it into a delicious dish.

I could not resist picking out a freshly caught pomfret and wriggling squid that were steamed with lemon grass and ginger, accompanied by crunchy okra and water spinach fried with belacan dried shrimp paste.

Teluk Bahang is another fishing village at the northern tip of the island, which is also the entry point to one of Penang’s hidden secrets, its National Park. Most Malaysians don’t even have any idea that Penang has a national park and the 25 square kilometre nature reserve is certainly much smaller, and far less visited than the more well-known parks such as Taman Negara or Mulu over in Borneo.

It is perfect, though, for a one day ecological nature immersion that takes in jungle trekking, spotting wild monkeys, butterflies and exotic birds, lazing on a white sand beach and then whizzing across the waves in a speedboat. Although entry to the park is free, everyone has to register (with a passport) at the headquarters.

Once in, explore the clearly marked trail – a serious two-hour jungle trek until you reach a series of paradise beaches.

While it is possible to explore unaccompanied, I decide to hire a qualified guide, Shukor, who is brilliant explaining the flora and fauna and also makes the very wise choice to book a fisherman’s boat to take us back to Teluk Bahang at the end of the day, rather than facing another exhausting hike in sweltering heat back along the same trail.

In the midst of all this pristine nature it comes as a surprise when Shukor says that we can now drive to bustling George Town in just half an hour.

Tempting, but I prefer to end my voyage here, returning home with these surprising souvenirs of an unspoiled rural Penang.