13 Things to Do in Abastumani: Romanov History, Sulfur Baths & Stargazing

A detailed guide to visiting Abastumani, Georgia’s capital of stargazing and Romanov history.

Located in the Lesser Caucasus mountains in Samtskhe-Javakheti Region, Abastumani is a subalpine mountain resort once favoured by the Russian nobility. Affectionately known as Georgia’s ‘closest place to the stars’, it doubles as the home of the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory – one of the most important space research facilities in the Caucasus.

With Romanov history to rival nearby Borjomi and some of the country’s prettiest architecture, Abastumani is among the most atmospheric (pun intended!) places to visit in Georgia.

When I first visited in summer 2021, Abastumani was in pretty rough condition. Today, the road in is still a work in progress – but the sidewalks and parks have all been renewed, part of the observatory has been renovated, and more of the historic dacha houses have been restored. Two major hotel projects – Rooms Abastumani and a Marriott – are in the pipeline.

Is Abastumani about to hit the big time?

I love Abastumani, and whatever becomes of the resort in the future I think it deserves to be celebrated for its incomparable history and incredible architecture. Here are the best things to see and do in Abastumani right now, plus everything you need to plan your visit.

About Abastumani

The story of Abastumani is one of rise, decline, and renewal.

A summer retreat for the Romanovs in the final days before the Russian Revolution, the town’s exquisite architecture and sublime subalpine setting make it a place unlike anywhere else.

Remnants of ancient stone towers and fortresses scattered across the surrounding ridges hint at the area’s deeper past. On nearby Mounts Abuli and Shaori, megalithic cyclopean fortresses dating back to the Bronze Age stand as some of the oldest human-made structures in the region.

In the Middle Ages, Abastumani was part of the Odzrkhe district before falling under Ottoman control in the 16th century. Much later in 1842, a short-lived German colony named Friedenthal was established here. By the 1850s, the territory came under the patronage of Russian Viceroy Mikhail Vorontsov, and a new wave of resettlement began.

Abastumani’s true transformation came in the 1890s when Grand Duke George Alexandrovich Romanov, younger brother of the last Tsar Nicholas II, was sent here for treatment of tuberculosis. It was hoped that the fresh air and local hot springs, long used by Georgians, would aid his condition. George spent his final years between a palace in Abastumani and a residence in Likani before dying suddenly in a road accident near Abastumani in 1899.

By then, the town had already become a fashionable summer resort for aristocrats and high society families who built their ornate holiday homes along its leafy streets.

Around the same time, astronomer Sergey Glazenap of Saint Petersburg installed a telescope atop nearby Mount Kanobili. His pioneering work later inspired Georgian academic Evgeni Kharadze to petition Soviet authorities for a permanent observatory.

In 1932, the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory was officially inaugurated as the USSR’s first high-mountain observatory. Over the decades, it grew into a centre of research with seven telescopes, the last being a 40cm Zeiss Double Astrograph mounted in 1978.

Meanwhile, down in the valley, Abastumani flourished as a Soviet spa town. Sanatoria and guesthouses welcomed visitors from across the USSR, especially TB patients seeking mountain air and mineral waters. Public bathhouses and pavilions offered hydrotherapy treatments, echoing the resort culture of Borjomi, Tskaltubo, Menji, and Kobuleti.

Abastumani’s fortunes shifted after the fall of the Soviet Union. Many sanatoria and dachas were abandoned, bathhouses shuttered, and the observatory went into partial hibernation during the 1990s. The once-bustling resort slipped into obscurity, its mosaics, grand villas, and leafy boulevards left to decay.

Now Abastumani is entering a new chapter. State-funded restoration projects are breathing life back into the town. The observatory is as active as ever, and in 2024 a new Austrian-built telescope was installed – the most advanced instrument in its history.

Ambitious plans are underway to restrict access to the town to electric vehicles only, while long-delayed roadworks are finally being brought to completion. In a rare display of restraint, proposals to develop a ski resort on the surrounding slopes were tabled in order to maintain the tranquil, healing atmosphere that defines the town.

How to get to Abastumani

Abastumani is located in the mountains of southern Georgia, 27 kilometres or 45 minutes by road from the nearest major city of Akhaltsikhe. Abastumani is 230 kilometres (around 4 hours by road) from Tbilisi.

There are two roads to Abastumani: the road from Benara just outside Akhaltsikhe, approaching the resort from the south, and the road from Sairme/Kutaisi, approaching from the north. The latter – the Zekari Pass – is a partially unsealed mountain road that is only suitable for 4WDs. It is currently under reconstruction.

By car

The road from Akhaltsikhe to Benara (16 kilometres) is completely sealed, while the road into Abastumani (9 kilometres) is temporarily unsealed. Roadworks are underway on this stretch as well, and it can be slow going and muddy as a result (see photo below left). You do not need a 4WD – a sedan is fine. Allow around 45-60 minutes to reach Abastumani from Akhaltsikhe.

If you plan to drive to Abastumani from Kutaisi via the Zekari Pass, you will need a car with high undercarriage clearance to manage the rough, unsealed road. The pass is only open in summer. Do not attempt the drive in winter or in the days after heavy rain. Travel time is 3-4 hours.

Coming from Akhaltsikhe, you will first pass through Abastumani town. The resort is located further up the road. Streets within the resort have all been sealed/cobbled, and ample street parking is available.

By marshrutka van

In the summer months, there are direct marshrutka vans to Abastumani from Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi. However, the easiest way to reach the resort is by transiting through Akhaltsikhe.

Vans are timetabled to depart from the bus station in Akhaltsikhe (pictured below; located here) at:

• 10.30am
• 12.30pm
• 2pm
• 3.30pm
• 5pm

The fare is 3.5 GEL per person. Double-check times locally in Akhaltsikhe (consult the printed schedule, or ask staff at the ticket desk), and be sure to arrive at least 30 minutes ahead of time to get a seat.

For the return journey, drivers head back to Akhaltsikhe from the small bus stand on Abastumani’s main street (pictured below; located here) at:

• 9am
• 10am
• 12.30pm
• 2.30pm

In summer, there are additional direct services from Abastumani to Batumi (departing at 8.30am; 30 GEL), Kutaisi (at 10.30am; 25 GEL), and Tbilisi (at 3pm; 18 GEL).

Where to stay in Abastumani

Abastumani is primarily a destination for Georgian families, with most people staying for longer periods of several weeks to several months. Similar to a ski resort, accommodation is mostly limited to apartment buildings (or rental cottages). That is slowly changing as more hotels – including a long-awaited branch of Rooms, which will take over an old sanatorium – open to cater to short-term visitors.

On our recent visit, we were invited to stay at Eikon Apartments (pictured below), a new building near the sulfur pools. The self-contained apartments here are expertly designed and very comfortable (head and shoulders above most condos in Georgia), with a full kitchen, washing machine, and private balcony. The onsite restaurant, IFANI (more below), is one of the best places to eat in town.

For something more isolated, Cottage Galileo has four cottage villas set in the forest.

With limited accommodation options and high demand in summer, it can be difficult to find a room. I suggest you book as far in advance as possible if you plan to visit between mid-June and September.

Abastumani map

Things to do in Abastumani

You can easily cover the best of Abastumani in a day. Stargazing tours at the observatory only go ahead in clear weather, it’s a good idea to plan for at least two nights if this is on your agenda.

1. Tour the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory

The Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory is one of those I can’t believe this exists in Georgia places.

Touring the retro museum, peering through a Soviet-era telescope and listening to the incredible narration from the astronomer guides (Neil Degrasse Tyson, eat your heart out) is the highlight of any visit to Abastumani. I have done the tour twice now, and I would do it again tomorrow if I could!

Founded in 1932 by Georgian academic Evgeni Kharadze, this was the first – and for decades the only – high-mountain observatory in the USSR. Mount Kanobili was chosen as the location because of its perfect stargazing conditions: clear skies, minimal wind, and no light pollution. A gamut of important discoveries were made here – from polarised radiation to new comets and moon craters.

When I last visited Abastumani, the mood at the observatory felt subdued. Today, increased funding has brought fresh energy: in 2024 a state-of-the-art Austrian-built telescope was installed beneath a 12-metre dome, opening the door to a new era of research.

The active research facility is a self-contained community. Many of the 120 staff members live on the grounds. To visit, you need to join a guided tour.

The tour begins with the small museum, which documents the observatory’s legacy through archival photos, publications, miniature models, and original instruments. I love the old offices, preserved in all their Soviet-era beauty. I am told that a new meteorite exhibition is coming soon.

From there, you continue to the 40cm Refractor – the oldest working telescope on the grounds, assembled in 1937. Its dome, topped with a wonderfully retro wooden roof, slides open at the push of a button to unveil the heavens.

Summer night tours (specifically during the months of July and August; arrive after 11pm to see Saturn) offer the best chance for stargazing. Even on our recent afternoon visit, we were lucky enough to peer through the telescope and see Venus. An unforgettable experience!

Astro tours are available on demand (no prior booking required) between March and December. Staff speak fluent English and are incredibly enthusiastic, taking the whole experience to the next level.

Daytime tours:

• May-August: 11am-7pm
• March/April & September/October: 11am-6pm
• November/December: 11am-5pm
• Duration: 60-90 minutes
• Price: 10 GEL per person or 50 GEL total for a group of less than five people

Night stargazing tours:

• May-August: 9pm-1am
• March/April & September/October: 8pm-12am
• November/December: 7pm-11pm
• Duration: 60-90 minutes
• Price: 20 GEL per person or 100 GEL total for a group of less than five people

Payment should be made in cash using the paybox located on the grounds. Staff will assist you. Note that the observatory is closed on national holidays. More information here on the website.

It takes around 20 minutes to reach the observatory from Abastumani. The road is sealed, but potholed in places and quite narrow and windy – take extra care if driving after dark. Alternatively, you can hike up following the marked trail (see #11 below) that starts near the bottom cable car station. The cable car itself is only available to observatory staff; see #8 below.

When you arrive, the security guards stationed out front will greet you. If there is a tour taking place, you might need to wait at the gate for a guide to become available.

2. Admire the restored Dacha houses

Abastumani’s most elegant heritage homes line Shota Rustaveli Street, the central boulevard that runs through town. Built during the late Tsarist period, these two- and three-storey houses combine stone masonry ground floors with timber-framed upper storeys, a hallmark of resort architecture from the late 19th century.

Most were originally built as summer retreats for aristocratic families, while more modest single-storey structures served practical roles – one was even a pharmacy.

The houses fell into disrepair during the late 20th century. Up until just a few years ago, many were in very poor condition, their intricate gingerbread-trim fretwork and balconies sagging. Since then, a dozen or so have been lovingly restored.

Previously rendered in vivid shades of blue, sage green and lemon, I was surprised to find the facades have been re-repainted in a more subdued palette of whites and soft blues.

Delicate balustrades, latticework spandrels, and pierced panels with floral and geometric motifs soften the facades, while widow’s walks, glazed cupolas and rooftop belvederes provide panoramic views over the forest.

Some of the houses are still lived in by local families, others have been converted into guesthouses, and one even serves as the local police station. Laundry lines hang across the balconies, while carpets are draped over railings to air out in the sun. Unlike certain restored quarters in Tbilisi that feel more like open-air museums, Abastumani’s old houses are very much alive.

A wide footpath runs the length of the street, shaded by mature chestnut and linden trees. Their canopy filters the sunlight into shifting patterns that dance across verandahs and courtyards, lending the whole scene the air of a period drama brought to life.

At present, pockets of construction still interrupt the flow. Among the new venues slated to open here is a Rooms Hotel restaurant, a downtown counterpart to the main hotel, which occupies a former sanatorium tucked back in the forest.

3. Photograph the crumbling cottages

Not all of Abastumani’s houses have been so lucky. A significant number remain in various states of disrepair and decay, their once-grand facades wilting behind police tape.

Directly opposite the restored dachas on Rustaveli Street – across the Otskhe rivulet – you’ll find a contrasting cluster of abandoned treasures: Abastumani’s first public hotel, a former schoolhouse, and a string of abandoned villas.

The most striking of all is this Oriental-style house, said to have been owned by an Azerbaijani holidaymaker. Its pointed horseshoe arches and onion-domed roof ornaments nod to Moorish Revival design. Though currently de-roofed, it is undergoing restoration – a hopeful sign for its survival.

Further north, the somewhat neglected backstreets – particularly the lanes near Hotel Nuca and the turn-off to the observatory – were originally built as servants’ quarters, housing the staff who accompanied wealthy families to Abastumani.

Weathered shushabandi, collapsing shingle roofs and shuttered doors are a haunting counterpoint to the polished facades on the main drag. Many are undergoing work now and have architect’s render boards out front.

4. Admire the Romanov Palace from afar

Built in 1893 for Grand Duke George Alexandrovich Romanov, the Romanov complex in Abastumani originally comprised two residences: a summer palace, and a winter palace. Designed by Tbilisi-based architect Otto Jacob Simons, the single-storey summer house was constructed entirely from wood – thought to be beneficial for the lungs – and distinguished by its ornate fenestration and verandahs. The sturdier winter palace was made of stone.

After George’s untimely death, the complex was largely abandoned (though it’s said that the summer house became a favourite haunt of the Soviet elite). In the 1990s, the grounds were converted into a convent, and the Sisters of St. Panteleimon took up residence. A few years later, one of the buildings was badly damaged by fire.

Now folded into the grounds of the St. Panteleimon the Healer Convent of Abastumani, the surviving Romanov Palace – which has been completely restored – serves as accommodation for the sisters. The complex also contains a newly built chapel and an older church that houses icons brought here from Sapara Monastery near Akhaltsikhe.

At present, the site is closed to visitors – our hosts at Eikon, Baia and Gela, kindly arranged for a guided tour. The convent will reopen to the public as soon as the renovations are complete.

5. Find the Tsar’s Bathhouse

The Tsar’s Bathhouse, also known as Royal Abastumani, is built directly over one of three natural hot springs in the southern part of town, about a 10-minute walk from the centre. The waters here were traditionally prescribed for tuberculosis and other respiratory ailments.

The grand bathhouse itself was constructed between 1879-1881, designed by St. Petersburg physician Adolf Remmert as a hydrotherapy pavilion for the Romanovs and their guests. Different treatments were offered in its heyday, and the complex continued to operate well into the Soviet period.

The bathhouse is privately owned by a development company and is in the midst of a $12 million restoration project. The site is closed to visitors, but from the fence line, the monumental facade is still visible. Its carved wooden balcony and fretwork have been removed, and the layers of red-and-blue paint have been stripped back to reveal the raw stone structure beneath.

The ornate Henry Lepaute clock of Paris still presides over the main entrance. The two wings that extend from either side once separated men’s and women’s bathing quarters.

Plans call for the restored bathhouse to reopen as a modern spa with six sulfur showers and a small museum on the ground floor. Early news reports suggested completion in 2021, but work is ongoing. On my latest visit I noticed some dramatic changes: the old fountain had been demolished and excavations are underway to build subterranean rooms beneath a new water feature.

For a view of the site, climb to the top of the nearby rocky outcrop where a small statue of Shota Rustaveli stands.

6. Swim in the sulfur pools

Close to the Tsar’s Bath you’ll find another sulfur pool that is still open for business. While far less grand, it is another piece of history – a throwback to Abastumani’s Soviet spa days rather than its royal period.

The bathhouse consists of two deep pools housed under a partially open roof. It’s about as far from the glamorous Tbilisi sulfur baths as you can get!

But the waters themselves are just as potent – and much warmer, about 39-48.5°C. According to chemical analysis, the mineral springs are sodium-chloride–sulfate-calcium type waters, containing around 53% sodium chloride, and 23.3% sodium sulfate, recognised for their therapeutic effects on the respiratory system and cardiovascular health.

Step inside, and it feels more like a public swimming pool than a bathhouse: bright lights, tiled floors, and the pungent smell of sulfur rather than chlorine. Long pipes channel water directly from the springs.

The heat can be intense – I felt dizzy after about 5 minutes in the water – so it’s best to limit your soaking and take a cool shower in between dips. The smaller rear pool is noticeably hotter. It has lane markings on the bottom – I truly can’t imagine swimming laps in water so warm!

When I last visited in 2021, this place was very rough around the edges. Now it has been fully refurbished, with changing cubicles and showers added. You’ll need to bring your own towel, robe, and flip-flops as nothing is available onsite. Remember to bring cold drinking water as well.

The atmosphere at the pools is unpretentious and friendly. Last time, the veteran caretaker, Genardi, kindly showed me around and later invited me for an instant coffee at one of the cafes across the road. On my second visit, I took the plunge and enjoyed a great swim.

The pools are open daily from 8am until midnight. I recommend going in the early morning when it’s nice and quiet. Entrance costs 20 GEL for one hour of bathing.

7. Explore the new parks and walking paths

‘Taking the air’ is part of the ritual of visiting Abastumani, a place long praised for its crisp mountain climate.

If you can tear yourself away from the main street and its pretty architecture, you will find a set of newly landscaped parks and walkways that make strolling here every bit as pleasant as it was in the town’s imperial heyday.

These green spaces are designed to complement the forested slopes of the surrounding Borjomi–Kharagauli National Park and its characteristic trees – Oriental hornbeam, oak, beech, and spruce.

Inside the new Dendrological Park, paths wind through shaded groves past playgrounds and cafes. In a smaller park in the centre, a Soviet-era statue of a sportsman – a muscular figure in swimming trunks holding a ball – will surely catch your eye as you stroll by.

Did you know that an estimated 62-75 passenger cable cars were erected across Georgia during the Soviet period? With its steep hillsides, it’s no surprise that Abastumani had a ropeway of its own.

Built to ferry astronomers and staff up to the observatory, the line connects the resort town with the summit of Mount Kanobili. Its bright yellow gondolas, manufactured by the Tbilisi Aviation Factory, are identical in design to the red cabins in Khulo and the blue ones at Tbilisi’s Turtle Lake – classic oval-shaped gondolas that became a Soviet standard.

The modernist lower station, half-hidden in the forest of the Dendrological Park, is a striking piece of architecture in its own right. From here, the ropeway once whisked passengers silently through the pine trees before emerging at the observatory gates.

Today, the cable car remains operational, but access is restricted to observatory staff. If you’re lucky, you might spot one of the yellow cabins suspended mid-line.

Located just off the main street in Abastumani, the St. Alexander Nevsky Church – also known as Akhali Zarzma (‘New Zarzma’) – is the town’s principal place of worship.

The church was commissioned by Grand Duke George Alexandrovich, inspired by his adoration for the saint – a dynastic symbol for the Romanovs – and his admiration for the medieval Zarzma Monastery, located about 30 kilometres southwest on the road to Upper Ajara. Sadly, he passed away before the project was completed.

Constructed between 1899 and 1902, the church was also designed by Otto Jacob Simons. Inside, the walls are elaborately frescoed. The murals and iconostasis were both painted by the notable Russian Symbolist and Peredvizhniki artist Mikhail Nesterov.

The door to the church is only open on Sunday mornings and Feast Days, when the Divine Liturgy is celebrated.

You can find a few Soviet-era mosaics in Abastumani that hark back to its spa-town days.

The first is a playful composition by Lama Kurdiani (date unknown) showing a miniature Abastumani nestled in the mountains beneath a radiant sun with a smiling human face (pictured above). Made from ceramic tiles, it captures the town’s identity as a vibrant health resort. Its location off the main street, close to the bus stop, means you’ll likely pass it several times during your stay.

Far grander in scale is the long retaining-wall mosaic by Saurmag Ghambashidze, created in the 1970s (pictured above). Set against a shimmering golden background, it depicts galloping deer and men in traditional chokha dress, symbols of vitality and Georgian heritage.

The roadside mural has long been hidden behind a corrugated metal tunnel, and only fragments of the panno survive. Walk through with a torch and you’ll catch glimpses of its faded splendour.

Framed by the Lesser Caucasus and cloaked in dense pine and beech forests, Abastumani is an unexpectedly great place for hiking. Its terrain and climate closely resemble those of neighbouring Borjomi–Kharagauli National Park, whose protected ridges border the resort to the east.

A 32-kilometre network of trails, clearly marked with yellow waymarks, leads from the edge of town into the hills. Routes can be joined from various points along the main road and near the bottom cable car station, and are open year-round. 

Classified as easy, the paths are suitable for casual walkers as well as seasoned hikers. Along the way you’ll encounter a mix of cultural and natural landmarks: panoramic viewpoints, coniferous groves, and of course the Abastumani Observatory.

Two of Abastumani’s most important medieval sites – Tamari Fortress and Okro Castle – can also be reached on foot. Tamari Fortress sits on a ridge close to the southern end of town; the 5.4-kilometre uphill trail starts near the sulfur baths.

Okro Castle is further back in the forest: the best approach is to drive to Shoka village and continue on foot for around 3 kilometres. The fortress, built by the Meskhetians as part of a defensive chain against Ottoman incursions, occupies a dramatic rocky outcrop that claws around its towers and walls.

Ifani is one of Abastumani’s best dining spots, offering both European and Georgian standards – but what makes it truly special is the regional Meskhetian fare. These recipes – some of the most unique and tastiest in Georgia – are hard to find at restaurants in Tbilisi or elsewhere in the country, so it’s definitely worth seeking them out while you’re here.

Start with the Meskhetian khinkali – miniature dumplings stuffed with apokhti (dried beef) – and the Meskhetian khachapuri, a decadent pie of crispy layered pastry filled with molten cheese. Another speciality is the tangy tutmaji soup, made with sour cream, fresh dill, noodles and fried dough balls.

Ifani is located on the bottom level of Eikon Apartments. The custom wall mural nods to Abastumani’s imperial spa days – all pearls, chandeliers, and champagne coupes.

No matter where you are in Georgia – be it Guria, Racha or on the Black Sea – every summer destination has a rustic trout house, where diners sit in little wooden cabins to feast on fresh-caught fish. In Abastumani, that place is Sakalmakhe (literally ‘trout’).

The restaurant sits right on the Baratkhevi River, with shaded pavilions and tables beside a small lake where the fish are kept fresh. The speciality is, of course, grilled trout. The mtsvadi BBQ is also very good.

Sakalmakhe is a 10-minute drive north of the centre. Just beyond the restaurant, the path turns to dirt as it begins its climb toward the Zekari Pass.

Quick tips for visiting Abastumani

• Abastumani is open year-round. Summer peak season is the best time to visit for stargazing, while autumn brings beautiful colours to the surrounding forests. The road remains open in winter, with possible short closures if there is heavy snow.
• There are several supermarkets (Spar, Nikora, Ori) in town, plus shoti bakeries and a small agricultural market where you can find fresh produce.
• ATMs are located along the main street, including one in front of the Spar supermarket.
• There is no petrol station in Abastumani – the closest one (Connect) is located on the highway out of Akhaltsikhe, right at the turn-off for the Abastumani road.
• Pack your bug repellent as there are lots of mozzies around in summer.
• Bring your bathers, a towel and most importantly flip flops if you plan on visiting the sulfur baths.