8 Superb Places to See Autumn Colours in Georgia: Scenic Drives & Late-Season Hikes

Georgia is blessed with four seasons and the entire country – from Tbilisi and the wine region to the high mountains and the Black Sea Coast – experiences some sort of autumn transformation.

Late September through to the end of November is my favourite season here, and I always have a hard time deciding where to travel. I wish I could be everywhere at once!

For this short guide, I have chosen 8 of the best places to see autumn colours in Georgia – from fiery forests to golden parks. While all of these locations are all quite broad, I’ve tried to include specific places and tips to make my guide more practical. Some spots are best explored on foot, while others lend themselves to scenic road trips.

Best time to visit Georgia for autumn colours

Fall colours spread across Georgia’s landscapes in waves, moving gradually from the high mountains down into the valleys. Knowing when to visit is crucial if you want to catch the leaves at their peak and avoid closed mountain passes/dangerous roads. Here is a simple elevation guide to help with timing your trip:

High alpine areas (Svaneti, Khevsureti, Tusheti, Upper Adjara above 2,000 m): Peak foliage arrives early – usually late September through the first half of October. By the end of the month, snow can blanket the high passes, cutting off road access. If you want to see Tusheti’s golden larch forests, aim for the very end of September or early October.

Mid-elevation ranges (Racha, Kazbegi/Truso, Borjomi-Kharagauli, Abastumani): The sweet spot is October. Expect fiery beech and birch forests, with snow-dusted peaks as a backdrop. These regions usually stay accessible well into autumn, so they are a safer bet if you are self-driving or hiking.

Lowlands & wine country (Kakheti, Imereti, Tbilisi & surrounds): Colours arrive here last, with trees holding their leaves into late October and November. This is perfect if you’re visiting later in the season – you can combine autumn vineyards in Kakheti with city parks in Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Tskaltubo for example.

Takeaway: If you want a guaranteed foliage fix, plan your trip for early to mid October, when mid-mountain areas are glowing and some highland spots are still open. If you’re coming later in autumn, base yourself in Kakheti, Tbilisi, or Kutaisi and focus on lower valleys and urban parks.

Where to see fall colours in Georgia

1. Racha

Peak colours: Mid October to early November

Racha is often considered the best place in Georgia for autumn foliage – I always make a point of visiting this region every season. The mountainous north-west is cloaked in oak, beech and hornbeam forests that transform into a mosaic of bronze, russet and deep crimson between September and November. Higher elevations retain their emerald pines, creating striking contrast.

Shaori Reservoir, on the road into Ambrolauri from Kutaisi, is surrounded by tall forests that reflect in the still water. The path to the Tskhrajvari lookout is lined with copper leaves, and the clear, crisp autumn weather is perfect for the short hike to the Sairme Pillars in neighbouring Lechkhumi Region.

Driving through low-lying villages such as Khvanchkara (above left), you’ll see yellow leaves draped over the vineyards – especially beautiful when softened by autumn light filtering through the tall poplar trees. Meanwhile in Upper Racha, alpine meadows around Chiora and Ghebi glow like bonfires well into October.

October is harvest season for Aleksandrouli grapes, used to produce the region’s famous Khvanchkara wine. In late November, families turn their energy to preparing lori, a special type of Rachan smoked pork.

This region lends itself perfectly to a road trip. Don’t miss the spectacular stretch of highway between Oni and Sachkhere (above right), a 75-minute drive over the Khikhata Pass that is particularly scenic in autumn.

→ Plan your route: My 4-day Itinerary for Racha-Lechkhumi includes all the highlights. 

2. Upper Svaneti

Peak colours: Late September to mid October

The highlands of Svaneti are another favourite spot for autumn colours. The hiking season winds down in October, and at higher elevations, snow can arrive early. Autumn first touches the ridgelines around Ushguli in late September, when amber and crimson sweep across the slopes beneath moody autumn skies.

On my own trek from Mestia to Ushguli in the last week of September, I watched the seasons shift in real time: green valleys around Mestia gradually gave way to the brassy tones of Ushguli. Pure magic!

The road from Ushguli to Lentekhi via the Zagari Pass (typically open until mid-October) is one of the most scenic drives in the region, its curves lined with glowing foliage. Ushguli itself takes on a tawny tone that blends beautifully with its stone tower architecture.

Late September to early October is ideal for day hikes in Svaneti, too. The trails are quieter, rivers run low (making crossings easier), and although the Koruldi Lakes are shallow at this time of year, the surrounding meadows and slopes glow.

→ Go beyond the obvious: Read my full trip report for Svaneti in September.

3. Tianeti & Sabaduri Forest

Peak colours: Early to mid October

Closer to Tbilisi, the small town of Tianeti (pictured below) is an autumnal wonderland, where brilliant foliage and carpets of fallen leaves transform the landscape. It is perfect for a day drive with your own car, or you can pass through the area as a back-road alternative between Kakheti and Kazbegi, re-joining the Military Highway at Zhinvali.

The approach to Tianeti is lined with slender poplars, their golden leaves tumbling onto the asphalt like confetti. Stop for a short wander to see the Soviet-era statues, bas-reliefs and a leafy central park. Super Khinkali is a must for dumplings and locally made dambalkhacho cheese.

If you are approaching Tianeti from Akhmeta, be sure to stop at Kvetera Fortress in Naduknari. Hidden inside the crumbling castle walls, a tiny church topped with glazed turquoise-blue roof tiles glimmers in the sunlight, cutting a striking silhouette against the orange foliage. This is one of Georgia’s most beautiful yet little-known churches, and chances are you’ll have it all to yourself.

The Tbilisi–Tianeti road (112 kilometres; about 2.5 hours) passes through Sabaduri Forest, a pocket of Tbilisi National Park famous for its fiery autumn colours. Feed the rescue bears at the Zoological Centre, and admire the colourful mosaics on the road to the former Young Pioneers’ Palace in Tskhvarichamia.

4. Rkoni Valley

Peak colours: Mid to late October

The Rkoni Valley is suitable for an easy day hike from Tbilisi and my top recommendation for an autumn outdoors escape from the capital. One of several valleys that cut into the mountains south-east of Gori, it reaches the edge of Trialeti Planned National Park at its deepest point.

A marked trail begins in the small village of Rkoni and winds through forest to the 7th-century Rkoni Monastery, a modest stone church hidden among the trees and carpeted with yellow leaves and fallen chestnuts in autumn. Just beyond, the Tedzami River is spanned by the elegantly arched Tamar Bridge (below left).

5. Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

Peak colours: Mid October to mid November

Borjomi is one of Georgia’s most accessible autumn destinations, with a long season thanks to its lower altitude. The historic spa town is encircled by wooded slopes that ignite in shades of amber and copper come October. In Borjomi Central Park, the famous mineral springs bubble beneath a canopy of burnished leaves, while beautiful colours decorate the streets in the centre of town.

Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, one of the oldest and largest in the Caucasus, offers some of the best off-season hiking in Georgia. Lower-elevation trails remain open late into the year – try the Footprint Trail or Saint Andrew Trail, which wind through mixed beech, oak and fir forests vibrating with colour. Find more information in this comprehensive guide to trekking in Borjomi.

The historic Kukushka train from Borjomi to Bakuriani might be suspended, but the mountain resort – a popular winter ski destination from December to March – is easily reached by road. The drive climbs through forested valleys, past abandoned sanatoriums, where autumn colours are at their best.

→ Go deeper: See my offbeat guide to the best of Borjomi.

6. Javakheti & Tskala

Peak colours: Early to mid October

Southwest of Tbilisi, the Javakheti Plateau is also known as the ‘Georgian Arctic’ because of its deep, harsh winters that see the volcanic plateau frozen over for much of the year. But before the cold creeps in, this vast area of neverending grasslands, crater peaks and jewel-like lakes takes on autumn’s palette. The best time to visit for colours is late September through early October, before the temperature plummets.

Early autumn is a great season for birdwatching, with more than 270 species of endemic and migratory birds nesting in the wetland habitat until the end of October. Paravani Lake, Saghamo Lake and Madatapa Lake are all must-sees.

The town of Tsalka is enroute to Javakheti from Tbilisi, and a base for exploring various canyons and waterfalls. These range from the popular Dashbashi Canyon (above right) to the little-known (and so far undeveloped) Beshtashen Canyon. Further south in the village of Gorelovka, the characteristic blue architecture looks amazing framed by orange leaves.

You will need your own car for this area – after the initial climb out of Tbilisi, the roads are long, flat and open, a true pleasure to drive. This route is included in my Georgia Road Trip Itinerary as a link between the capital and Vardzia cave city.

→ Plan it right: More things to do in Samtskhe-Javakheti Region.

7. Kvareli & the Gombori Pass (Kakheti)

Peak colours: Mid October

September is the best month of the year to visit Kakheti, as you can participate in the peak period of the Rtveli wine vintage. While it mostly remains green, return a little later in the season and you’ll find fiery foliage in some areas – including on the vineyards.

The Gombori Pass, the scenic road between Tbilisi and Telavi, is one location for October colours. Its slopes are covered in deciduous forests that turn golden in autumn. Most marshrutka vans take this route, so even without your own car you can experience the beautiful – if somewhat windy – forest drive.

On the eastern side of the Alazani Valley, where the vineyards melt into the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, there are more opportunities for leaf-peeping. I am especially fond of Kvareli Municipality. Last autumn we walked to the ruins of Dolochopi Basilica – Georgia’s earliest known Christian church – which was ringed by bursts of autumn colour (above left).

Kakheti also hosts festivals throughout autumn, including the Gurjaani Wine Festival, Georgia’s largest, which happens in mid-October.

→ Map it out: Follow my 3-day Kakheti Itinerary.

8. Vashlovani Protected Areas

Peak colours: Late September to November

Vashlovani offers a different kind of autumn spectacle: here, it’s not about trees, but the light. Georgia’s deep south-east is home to arid steppe, sandy semi-desert and badland canyons that glow golden under autumn skies. From late September through November, the vegetation takes on warm ochre and rust tones, while long shadows stretch across the clay cliffs and mud towers of Pantishara Valley.

Autumn is also rewarding for wildlife: griffon vultures and eagles are a common sight, and wild cats roam the reserve. Cooler, drier weather makes this the perfect season for offroad touring. Dedoplistskaro is the main base for Vashlovani, with guesthouses, guides and drivers readily available.

Visit in early October and you might also witness the Transhumance – an incredible phenomenon where shepherds and horsemen drive their flocks down from Tusheti’s summer pastures to the lowlands to see out the winter.

→ Plan your perfect adventure: Read my Vashlovani Itinerary for a day in Georgia’s Badlands.