2 Days in Khiva: A Complete Itinerary for Uzbekistan’s Fairytale City

All the best things to do in Khiva, Uzbekistan over 2 days – plus practical tips on ticketing, accommodation, restaurants, and more.

There was a time when Khiva was the last oasis of familiarity on the Silk Road – its inner city, Itchan Kala, marking the edge of the known world, where caravans stopped to rest one last time before vanishing into the desert.

For most travellers today, Khiva feels anything but familiar. Sun-baked ramparts and shimmering domes rise from the desert like a mirage made real. For those who choose it as their entry point into Uzbekistan (like me), Khiva sets the stage like nowhere else.

One of Central Asia’s best-preserved urban ensembles and Uzbekistan’s original UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Itchan Kala boasts more than 50 exquisite mosques, madrasas and minarets wrapped up in handsome mudbrick walls. Of the ‘big three’ Silk Road cities, it is the most cinematic in my opinion – the one that best lends itself to quiet walks, chance encounters, and photography.

In this two-day Khiva itinerary, I share my notes on how to experience the best of Khiva – from the highlights of the Itchan Kala (and things to skip) to alternative spots beyond the walls, and the best viewpoints and dining experiences.

If you are using Khiva as a base to explore the Khorezm Desert, Karakalpakstan and the Aral Sea, see my full Uzbekistan Itinerary for ideas on how to extend your journey.

How many days in Khiva?

Khiva is compact and easy to navigate on foot, but it’s also the kind of place that rewards slowing down. This is the one place in Uzbekistan where I feel I have unfinished business.

Two full days is ideal – enough time to visit all the major sights inside the Itchan Kala, watch sunset from two popular viewpoints, and spend a few unhurried hours exploring the ‘modern Khiva’ beyond the walls.

You could technically tick off the highlights in a single day, but an extra night gives you space to linger and enjoy Khiva’s atmosphere once the day-trippers have left.

Where to stay in Khiva

We stayed at – and highly recommend – Khiva Ibrohim Guest House. Set within the walls of Itchan Kala, between the south and west gates, it is a tidy family-run guesthouse with a warm, local feel. Guest rooms branch off a central living area where breakfast is served each morning – a generous homemade spread of eggs, pancakes, fruit and tea.

The hosts were exceptionally kind and helpful, arranging our taxi from Urgench Airport and offering to store our luggage while we travelled to the Aral Sea.

Khiva itinerary map

Itchan Kala tickets explained

Before you arrive in Khiva, it helps to have a basic understanding of how entry points and tickets work.

The Itchan Kala is classified as a Museum Reserve. The ticketing system is a bit confusing, but the most important thing to know is that you do not need to purchase a ticket in order to walk around the walled city. You can pass freely in and out of the gates as you wish (handy if your guesthouse is located inside).

A ticket is required to enter certain mosques and madrasah-museums. Seventeen of them are grouped together under a collective ticket, which is available to purchase from the booth outside the West Gate.

The Itchan Kala Pass – valued at 250,000 som (around 20 USD) at the time of writing – is valid for 24 hours. Keep in mind that four of Khiva’s must-sees – Islam Khodja Minaret, Ak Shikh-Bobo Tower, the old walls, and Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum – are not covered by this ticket and must be paid for separately. You will need the Pass to visit other attractions including the Juma Mosque and Toshhovli Palace.

To reiterate: You do not need to purchase a ticket to walk around the Itchan Kala – just push your way through the turnstiles.

For this itinerary, you will need to purchase a Pass for your first day in Khiva. I have arranged things so that all sites covered by the Pass fall on Day 1 – meaning you won’t have to buy a second Pass for Day 2 unless you choose to spread things out more.

Cash and card are both accepted at the ticket booth (provided the terminal is working). There is an ATM nearby if you need it. You do not need to show ID when purchasing tickets.

Ticket arrangements can and do change, so it’s always a good idea to confirm once you arrive. If you have any updates that might help other travellers, please feel free to share your experience in the comments below.

Day 1: Essential Khiva – the Itchan Kala

Morning: Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, Juma Mosque & Islam Khoja Minaret

The Itchan Kala – Uzbekistan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site (inscribed in 1990) – is the soul of Khiva.

Literally the ‘Inner City’, the 26-hectare area contains 99% of Khiva’s notable landmarks – more than 50 mosques, madrasas and mausoleums in total, interspersed with 250 houses. All are rendered in an aesthetically pleasing sandy-mud palette that perfectly matches the 10-metre-high adobe walls that enclose it on all sides.

The preserved walls – dated to the late 17th century and built atop older foundations that go back as far as the 5th century – are an attraction in and of themselves, and something we will return to at several moments across the two days. 

The walls are pierced by four gates: Ata Darvaza (West Gate), Tosh Darvaza (South Gate), Polvon Darvaza (East Gate), and Bakcha Darvaza (North Gate). If you are buying an Itchan Kala Pass (recommended for Day 1 – see ticket explanation section above), you should start from the West Gate where the main ticket booth is located.

Entering from the west, the first major landmark you catch sight of is the Kalta Minor Minaret. Construction on this beauty began in 1851 under Muhammad Amin Khan, who planned for the tower to surpass all others in Central Asia in terms of scale and ornamentation. However, work stopped prematurely after his death in 1855, and the tower was left unfinished at just 26 metres.

Wrapped entirely in bands of green, white and ochre tiles, the ‘Short Minaret’ is the symbol of Khiva and the perfect place to begin your walk through the Itchan Kala. You cannot climb this minaret, but you can admire its stout form from multiple vantages. There are several sculptural ensembles nearby, including a cute bronzework of two old friends sitting around a samovar.

I strongly recommend you make the most of the quieter morning hours to visit the most popular Itchan Kala sites before they get too crowded.

Start with the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, which opens first at 8am, and seems to attract local worshippers rather than tourists in the early morning. This is one of the landmarks that you’ll need to purchase a separate ticket for (30,000 som, payable in cash at the entrance booth last I checked).

Considered the spiritual heart of Khiva, the mausoleum is dedicated to the city’s patron saint – a 13th-century poet, philosopher and… wrestler! The floor-to-ceiling tilework in the main hall is dazzling. Outside, the complex includes several more tombs belonging to various Khivan khans.

Next door, the Juma Mosque has a contemplative atmosphere in the morning. We arrived at opening time to find the caretaker tending to the earthen floor and carpets with a giant broom. The resident cats are an endless source of entertainment!

One of Khiva’s oldest surviving religious structures, this mosque was rebuilt in the late 18th century and is remarkable for its forest of 213 carved wooden pillars, some of which date back to the original 10th century construction, others that were reused from earlier mosques.

Illuminated by morning light pouring in from an opening in the ceiling, each ayvan column is completely unique in its composition. You could literally spend hours studying the details.

At the time of our visit, we were offered the opportunity to scale the adjoining Juma (Jummi) Minaret, which can be accessed via a small door on the mosque floor. The narrow 81-step spiral staircase is mildly terrifying (after going up first, I strongly advised my dad not to follow in my footsteps) – but the view from the top of the 48-metre-high tower delivers a great view across the Itchan Kala towards the Kalta Minor.

I paid the caretaker 100,000 som for the privilege – the exchange had an under-the-table feel, so I’m not sure if this is an official attraction.

If you skip the Juma Minaret (or find it is off limits), there is another chance to get high for a view at the Islam Khoja Minaret. Another symbol of Khiva – recognisable for its tiled ‘crown’ – this modern tower (finished in 1910) has the advantage of being the highest vantage point in the city – topping out at around 56 metres.

Personally, I found the view from the Juma Minaret superior – but these stairs are sturdier, and the ticketing process is completely above board.

Only 10 people are permitted on the tight staircase at any given time, and we waited for around 20 minutes after purchasing our tickets (100,000 som at the time of our visit – not included in the Itchan Kala Pass) before it was our turn to ascend. While you wait, you could walk through the adjoining Islam Khoja Madrasa (included in the Pass), which houses a Museum of Applied Arts dedicated to pottery, woodwork and textiles.

Next door to the minaret and occupying part of the Islam Khoja Madrasa, Cafe Zarafshon is a convenient option for lunch.

Afternoon: Toshhovli Palace & additional museums

Continue east through the Itchan Kala – past more mosques, madrasas, and a bathhouse – to reach the Toshhovli Palace, located close to the East Gate. Included in the Itchan Kala Pass, this is by far the best museum in Khiva – both for its exhibitions, and the sumptuous details of the interior itself. I recommend you set aside 2 hours to thoroughly explore the recreated royal rooms and modern museum displays.

Built between 1832 and 1841 as a residence for Allakuli Khan, the ‘Stone House’ superseded the more modest Khiva Ark on the other side of the citadel. The complex centres on an internal courtyard surrounded by five stilted lodges – one for the khan, and one each for his four legitimate wives. All are covered with a mosaic of maiolica tiles and have incredible painted muqarnas wooden ceilings. Nine more courtyards and 150 additional rooms combine for a labyrinthine harem for the khan’s 40 concubines.

The palace is split into two wings, with entrance to the southern side via a separate door. It contains the throne room and the most beautiful aivan covered portico.

After wrapping things up at the palace, use any remaining time this afternoon to make the most of your Itchan Kala Pass investment by visiting a few of the additional sites it covers. These include:

• Matpana Baya Madrassah (the Museum of Scholars)
• Kutlug Murad Inaq Madrassah (the Fine Art Museum)
• Allakuli Khan Madrassah (now a restaurant and kilim workshop)

My recommendation is to head back towards the West Gate and find the west-facing front facade of the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasah. Dated 1871, this Islamic school is one of the largest in Khiva, fronted by a huge open plaza and with delicate tilework above the pishtaq portal. Inside, a modern exhibition hall describes the history of the Khiva Khanate, and recreations of the hujra cells (dummy models and all) show what life was like for students of the madrasa.

A second museum also covered by the Pass – The Exhibition of Akmechet Mennonites – is located directly opposite. Its artefacts and archival photographs describe the intriguing story of the German-speaking Mennonite families from Volga who settled south of Khiva in 1884 on land granted by the khan. As well as establishing farms, they became renowned woodworkers and contributed parquetry to some of Khiva’s palaces before they were tragically exiled by the Soviets in 1935.

Evening: Sunset from Kuhna Ark

Finishing on the western side of the Old City, you are in a perfect position to be one of the first people to enter the Kuhna Ark Watchtower ahead of sunset. This is the most popular spot in Khiva to end the day with golden-hour views – superior to the city walls, which you will nonetheless have time for on Day 2. I recommend arriving at least an hour before sunset time to secure a good spot.

Even though entrance to the Ark is covered by the Itchan Kala Pass, access to the watchtower must be paid for separately – an additional 100,000 som at the time of our visit.

As the sun dips, Khiva’s mudbricks are bathed in amber light – then as the moon rises, they glow soft pink. The views east, back towards the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasah, are the most enchanting in my opinion.

Stay until night falls to see the Islam Khoja Minaret illuminated by spotlights in the distance.

For dinner, the popular Terrassa Cafe & Restaurant is just footsteps from the Ark gate. If you want a rooftop table with a view, you will need to make a reservation in advance.

We ate here twice during our stay and were always satisfied with the food (portions are small, though). If it’s the views you’re here for, save your visit for the afternoon of Day 2 – below, I recommend visiting for coffee when it’s less busy and you can actually see the old city below.

Day 2: Alternative Khiva – beyond the walls

Morning: Outer walls, Nurullaboy Palace & local lunch

With the highlights of the Itchan Kala covered – and the 24-hour Pass exhausted – you can spend the majority of Day 2 outside the walls. If you have unfinished business in the old city, there is ample time in the afternoon/evening to return to Khiva’s core.

If you are staying inside Ichan Kala, exit through the Bakcha Darvaza North Gate. To the left, there is a small roadside station where minibuses to Urgench depart. To the right of the gate, there is a particularly beautiful section of curved wall that you can walk along to see the undulating, six-metre-thick ramparts from their reverse side.

Located outside the boundaries of the old walls, 10 minutes by foot to the west, Nurullaboy Palace provides an interesting contrast to the royal residences – the Ark, and particularly the Toshhovli Palace – visited on the previous day.

Built between 1906 and 1912 for Muhammad Rahim Khan II and completed by his son, Asfandiyar Khan, Nurullaboy blends traditional Khivan craftsmanship with Russian Imperial flourishes. Fireplaces crafted from fine Italian marble, parquet floors (some courtesy of the Akmechet Mennonites, no doubt) and Venetian chandeliers sit alongside typical Central Asian tilework and woodcarvings – a final flash of royal grandeur before the khanate fell under Soviet control in 1920. 

After a leisurely look around the palace, continue a block north to ATA Gamburg, a popular grill restaurant on the edge of Khiva’s Central Park. Prices outside the city walls are significantly more affordable, and we loved the local vibe of this place – especially the friendly owners.

This was our best meal in Khiva by a long shot. Grilled to order and served stuffed inside triangles of pillowly bread, the lamb shashlik is fatty, salty, and divine. Definitely order a portion of Turkmen-style fitchi, a pie made by enveloping shredded and spiced beef in a bready crust.

To round-out your time in downtown Khiva, walk a little further north to Memorial Park, where you’ll find a striking monument commemorating the victims of Soviet political repression.

Afternoon: Itchan Kala revisited

In the late afternoon, slip back inside the Itchan Kala via the North Gate (remember, you don’t need to buy a ticket today provided you stick to the streets and facades only). Snap a photo of the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasah if you missed it yesterday, spend an hour at the Muzey Sholkovodstva Khorezma silk museum and workshop – where you can learn to work a loom and make your own Uzbek scarf to take home as a souvenir – or photograph the white-tipped Amir Tura Madrasah, another striking facade that remains closed to visitors for the time being.

Now is a good time to pop up to the rooftop of Terrassa Cafe & Restaurant for coffee and a slice of cake (the sweets cabinet is excellent). In the late afternoon, you can usually secure an outside table without a booking.

My preference for this evening – the thing I found most rewarding about Khiva – was to simply wander the residential backstreets. The little lanes in the northeast corner of the Itchan Kala are particularly interesting, plied with kids carrying their backpacks home from school, and people riding home from work on bicycles.

We paused to greet a cat lounging in one of the doorways and next thing we knew, the homeowner appeared at the door and proudly presented her second cat for us to meet! There is a warmth and authenticity to Khiva that is more difficult to find in Bukhara, Samarkand or Tashkent – soak it up while you can.

Another highlight was stumbling on a wood-carving workshop tucked off a small alley. These family-run ateliers are responsible for the ayvan columns and carved doors seen throughout Khiva.

If you find the door ajar, craftsmen and their young apprentices are usually happy to demonstrate the process of transferring their designs onto wood from gridded paper, then whittling away the patterns by hand.

Most have a small shop attached where you can purchase souvenir-sized specimens – in our experience, there was absolutely no pressure to buy anything.

Evening: Sunset from the old walls

In the late afternoon, climb up onto the ramparts near the Northern Gate for another Khiva sunset, this time from a different perspective.

While there are sections of wall that you can access for free, most have been barricaded off. To get to the long wall that wraps around the top of the gate, you will need to purchase a ticket from the little booth marked on my map. It closes at some point between 5-7pm depending on the season, so make sure you arrive in plenty of time.

The walk is very pleasant, with vignettes of the Itchan Kala opening up at certain points, and places where you can study the adobe up-close. There is not much of a view, though – it’s more about the architecture of the wall itself.

More travel resources for Uzbekistan

• My complete Uzbekistan itinerary
• 15 things to know before you visit Uzbekistan
• How to visit the Aral Sea from Khiva
• How to spend 2-3 days in Bukhara
• The best things to do in Samarkand in 2-3 days