Visiting the Mostar Christmas Market (Holiday Magic in Bosnia and Herzegovina!)

The Balkans are not known for their Christmas culture, but in recent years we have noticed that the countries in the region are embracing the festive spirit a little bit more! We took a stroll through the Christmas market in Mostar (one of very few in Bosnia and Herzegovina).

Here are all things “Advent u Mostaru“!

Why the Mostar Christmas Market?

It surprised us a little that Mostar had one of the biggest Christmas markets in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Yes, the city itself is one of the largest in the country, but Mostar is located in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is the predominantly Muslim part of the country.

(Don’t bother with any “jingle halal” jokes…apparently this is only for the chronically online. *cough* )

We had expected to find more Christmas action in the Orthodox part of the country (Republika Srpska) or in the more Catholic-leaning region along the border with Croatia. We had based ourselves for a month in Trebinje – one of the more touristy areas in Republica Srpska – and the holiday atmosphere was…tepid.

When to Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina for Christmas Festivities

One of the mistakes we made, was to assume that the advent festivities would begin at the beginning of December. We actually left the country as scheduled on December 14th, and we could see that some places were just starting to set up for the season!

We first thought that Trebinje wasn’t going to decorate or celebrate at all, but they started putting up lights around the 10th, and sometime during our trip to Mostar (after the 10th) they added more.

In Capljina, where we stayed for our trip to Mostar, they were just starting to set up their Christmas market on December 14th. I think the later Christmas season is because Orthodox Christmas is celebrated on January 7th. So perhaps their advent season runs from around mid-December until mid-January.

If you are planning on having a little holiday spirit getaway, I wouldn’t plan to go before the 20th of December. This either necessitates Christmas in Bosnia and Herzegovina, or you could visit after.

Walking Through the Mostar Christmas Market

The Christmas market in Mostar is held in the center. There is paid parking nearby for about 2.50 BAM per hour (approx 1.25 Euros). We were there for around 2 hours.

There is a long pedestrian street leading to the Christmas market that is modestly decorated with overhead lights. Here there are some balloons and toys to tempt the kids.

Beside this road there is also a big park that has some of the trees decorated, and some large lit ornaments.

It’s nothing crazy compared to a Christmas park that you might pay to visit in North America, but it is fun, and was exciting for us! (And of course: Free!)

We entered the Christmas market seemingly from the “wrong” end of the pedestrian road, because if you enter from the other side, there is a light tunnel and a sign.

No matter which side you come from, there is a big Christmas tree!

Snacks and Drinks at the Mostar Christmas Market

The food hall for the Christmas market is located behind the big yellow building: Mostar Secondary School.

There are approximately 15 to 20 stalls offering different snacks and drinks.

We didn’t check every stall, but we purchased a spicy cheese sausage, and a normal hot dog at one stand, and a nutella waffle at another one.

We also tried mulled wine and mulled gin. The mulled gin was the best, in my opinion! It tasted like a hot apple cider.

Prices were very reasonable! The sausages were priced between 6 BAM and 10 BAM each (approx 3 to 5 Euros). The beverages were 5 – 6 BAM each. Not bad for a Christmas Market!

There were heaters, canopies, and seating at each stall. Many also had blankets! Winter weather is cool in Mostar, and it was close to freezing when we were there! You will definitely want a good warm jacket.

Are There Bathrooms at the Mostar Christmas Market?

There is a row of port-a-potties just outside of the food hall. Unfortunately they are tucked into a back corner with no lights, so you will need a flashlight on your phone (or buy one of the light up balloons for tots, ha ha!).

Where to Stay for the Mostar Christmas Market?

If you want to be able to walk to the market, there should be plentiful accommodation options in the center during winter. Mostar is one of the most visited cities in the country, so there is typically a glut of off season rentals.

We chose to stay in nearby Capljina. It is a 25 minute drive to Mostar, but also in a great location to visit many other attractions in the area, such as Pocitelj, Stolac, and Kravice Waterfalls. It is also a very short drive to Croatia.

Of course this only works if you rent a car!

Regardless of where you stay, if you choose a private apartment, do make sure that the listing indicates that the suite has heat! This isn’t normally a problem in Bosnia because the winters are cooler than other parts of the Balkans, but it’s worth making sure.

The Long and Short of the Small Mostar Christmas Market

At the end of the day, I probably wouldn’t plan a trip to Bosnia specifically for the Mostar Christmas Market. It is pretty small, and not something you would really visit more than once for a couple of hours.

However, it is a nice stop if you are planning a winter trip to the country. (And Bosnia and Herzegovina is well worth visiting!)

Watch it instead:

[embedded content]