Undertourism: Why Less-Crowded Jordan Needs Our Love

Planning your trip through Jordan

Safety tips for solo women travellers

Both my visits to Jordan were solo but not alone since I travelled with small groups, a guide and driver as a built-in safety net. Many Jordanians speak English. I felt perfectly comfortable taking Ubers and taxis around Amman for solo explorations. I wore my regular travel clothes, didn’t need to cover my head with a scarf, and was always treated respectfully by men. Some older local women wear burqas, but hijabs are more common, and many don’t wear either. Jordan is generally considered safe for LGBTQ+ travellers, especially in Amman. Same-sex sexual activity was decriminalized in 1951 but discrimination is possible.

As always, regularly check your government’s travel advisories as they can change and become an issue if you go somewhere during an “avoid all travel” advisory. Canada currently says to “exercise a high degree of caution” in Jordan due to ongoing tensions in the region and demonstrations, but so do Cuba and Spain, places I also visited this year. I put my flight details and itinerary in a Google document that I share with my family. I have an “In Case of Emergency” Google album with photos of my passport, insurance certificate and “emergency assistance for Canadians abroad” contacts.

How to get there

I flew Royal Jordanian from Toronto to Amman with a technical stop in Montreal to pick up passengers. The airline has routes from the United States, Europe and the U.K. as well, and aims to become a hub for the Levant region. Check for flights here.

Where to stay

I started and ended my trip at the InterContinental Amman, which opened in 1963, calls itself the “Grande Dame of Amman,” and was the first international five-star hotel in the capital. At the Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa, I appreciated direct access to the waterfront and the staff standing by with hoses to help people who got salt water in their eyes. Near Petra in Wadi Musa, it was lovely to revisit the Old Village Resort with fabulous mountain and city views at sunset. In Wadi Rum, Al Sultana luxury camp is tucked into the red dunes along what’s called the Desert Highway, so you don’t need a Jeep transfer.

How to join a guided trip

G Adventures, founded by Bruce Poon Tip and headquartered in Toronto, has a number of itineraries in Jordan, including some that also visit Egypt. These small group trips average 12 people, max out at 16, and while they do have single supplements, they are ideal for solo women travellers. Find a tour here.

Disclaimer: Jennifer Bain travelled as a guest of G Adventures, who did not review or approve this story before publication.