How We Spent 2 Months Living in Brighton, England

When we first started planning our Baby Trip – the nine months my husband Colin, daughter Baby C, our dog Ellie and I are travelling during our parental leave – I didn’t have living in Brighton, England on my bingo card.

In fact, we weren’t planning to live in the UK at all. But after our France visas fell through, we pivoted and ended up spending two incredible months living in Brighton this winter.

Before this trip, I had never been to Brighton. All I knew was that it’s a coastal city south of London. But after two months, it’s safe to say I’m firmly in love with Brighton.

The colourful homes and street art, the independent shops and cafes, the beach, the Royal Pavilion, the great restaurants…it’s hard not to fall in love with Brighton! This city was such a gem for us to discover and so easy to get around with a baby and a dog.

Below I’m going to dive into our two months in Brighton – sharing why we chose to live there, what we liked most about it, what we disliked, and my tips for anyone looking to visit Brighton or live there temporarily.

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You can also catch up on our first two European Baby Trip bases: six weeks living in Orleans, France and five weeks living in London.

Why we chose to base in Brighton in winter

Having already made the big effort to get to the UK from France with our dog and coming up on our Schengen day limit, we knew we’d be spending the next few wintery months in the UK.

After living in London for our first five weeks in the UK, we wanted to move somewhere that was easy to get to from London and hopefully a bit warmer. That ruled out most of Scotland, Ireland and Northern England; we were primarily looking on England’s south coast.

We still wanted to base in a big city with lots to see and do. It didn’t have to be as big as London, but we weren’t ready for life in a small village – especially not in the winter and without a car.

With those parameters, I began searching on Airbnb for a suitable apartment in a big enough city south of London. Brighton popped up as one of the few places I had heard of before. It was a good size city, on the coast and only an hour away from London by train.

The more research I did on Brighton, the more I liked the sound of it. It seemed like a really cool city with lots going on. It had walkable neighbourhoods and a beach. I also asked my friend, Holly, who lives on the coast and she gave it a big seal of approval.

What I loved about Brighton life

Part of what made our Brighton experience so amazing was being based in North Laine. Described as “the soul of Brighton” (at least according to one guide book I read), North Laine is full of independent shops, restaurants and cafes, street art, pedestrianized roads, and colourful homes.

It was such a vibrant part of Brighton to live in! Every day when I walked Ellie, there was something new to look at or a shop I wanted to wander through. I did my best to patronize as many local cafes and restaurants as time (and our budget!) would allow.

Brighton is such a walkable city. Living in North Laine, we were able to easily walk everywhere we wanted in Brighton -including down to the beach – in less than 20 minutes.

Besides North Laine, we discovered lots of other cool Brighton neighbourhoods like Seven Dials, The Lanes, Preston Park and Hove. Each one had its own flavour, and made for fun family outings with Baby C in her stroller.

Being from Vancouver, we missed living by the water when we were in Orleans and London, so it was awesome to have Brighton Beach and the English Channel right on our doorstep.

We loved walking along the boardwalk, exploring the pier, taking in the views from the Brighton i360 and having tea with a water view at The Grand.

Despite being smaller than London, I still found Brighton to be very diverse, which is one of my favourite things about big cities. We could easily eat cuisines from all over the world, another thing I love about multicultural cities.

I loved learning that Brighton is a haven for artists. We were surrounded by incredible street art, galleries and performance spaces. We even bought ourselves a print from a local artist!

Brighton also has the highest percentage of residents who identify as LGBTQ+ in the UK. The city felt very inclusive, progressive and family-friendly. It was exactly the kind of place I’d want to raise Baby C!

The last thing I loved about living in Brighton is that we got to host my mom, my mother-in-law and my dad. It was amazing to have the extra bedroom to host them and to watch them fall in love with Brighton like we did!

And my problems with living in Brighton

While Brighton is still a good-sized city, it certainly isn’t as big as London. So sometimes we missed having big city amenities or as many options as readily available.

Also being a smaller city, there isn’t as much to do in Brighton. Brighton doesn’t have the huge list of museums and attractions that London does. So like living in Orleans, sometimes we were scraping the bottom of the barrel to find an activity for the day.

The plus side was that we were able to settle into a nice daily rhythm that allowed us to slow down and soak up more local life.

With fewer big things to do, we had time to try local restaurants, play at home, walk around new neighbourhoods and even enrol Baby C in swim lessons.

We lived in Brighton in the winter, and even then, it felt really busy on weekends and on sunny days. North Laine’s narrow sidewalks were full and the pedestrianized streets were teeming with people.

People kept telling us to just wait until summer when the real crowds come, but I don’t think I’d enjoy Brighton at all with that many people. If anything, this trip cemented that I am firmly an off-season traveller.

Lastly, a big downside of living in Brighton was the higher cost of living. While a little cheaper than London, we were still paying UK prices, which hurt a lot compared to our weaker Canadian dollar.

What’s the cost of living in Brighton?

Overall, it felt like the cost of living in Brighton was pretty high, but not quite as high as London. If you look at living in Brighton vs London, our accommodation and eating out were slightly cheaper in Brighton.

We paid less for our Airbnb in Brighton – which was bigger, more comfortable and more centrally located – than either of our Airbnbs in London. Though again, Brighton is by no means a cheap place to live.

Cafes and restaurants in Brighton are slightly cheaper than in London. You also won’t see a service fee or auto-gratuity on every restaurant bill. It’s not unheard of but it’s not as common as in London. It can also be cheaper (sometimes 10% in Brighton compared to the standard 12.5% in London).

For example, my dad ate out solo at a pub in Brighton and was told they only put the service charge on the bill for larger parties. When he told them to go ahead and put it on for just him, they were shocked.

Grocery prices are about the same in London as they are in Brighton. We shopped at ALDI, Tesco and Sainsbury’s in Brighton and didn’t notice much difference in prices to the same stores in London.

The only plus I would give to London’s cost of living is that because London is such a big city, there is a greater range of options. You can stay at a five star hotel, eat at Michelin restaurants and go on private tours or you can stay in a hostel, eat at local food halls and visit free museums.

There aren’t as many options in Brighton, so sometimes you’re stuck paying the price of whatever is available. Whereas in London, especially where we lived in Brixton and in Spitalfields, there were often very affordable grocery and restaurant options nearby.

Another pro for London is the amount of free things there are to do. London has tons of free museums, parks, walking tours, etc.

Because there aren’t as many things to do in Brighton, free or otherwise, we ended up spending more money dining out and shopping to fill our time.

Our apartment in Brighton, UK

I really loved our apartment in Brighton! We were located right in the heart of North Laine with everything on our doorstep – incredible street art, cafes, vintage stores, restaurants and multiple grocery stores.

We were a two minute walk from the train station and could walk everywhere else we wanted to go in Brighton in 20 minutes or less. I loved being somewhere so walkable!

Besides the location, the apartment itself was great too. I loved having a second bedroom – it was perfect for hosting our parents and as my office in-between grandparent visits.

The lounge was large and far from the bedrooms, so we didn’t have to worry about noise while Baby C slept. The bathroom was big with an incredible shower, the beds were comfortable and there was lots of great Brighton art throughout.

Our Airbnb host was very sweet. She came over to change our linens every two weeks and even set up a Christmas tree for Baby C’s first Christmas. Plus, she provided lots of baby toys, books and gear – including a high chair, change pad and bath towel!

While the apartment was awesome, there were a few minor cons. The entryway was very narrow – you basically opened the door onto the stairs – which made getting in and out with a stroller, dog and bags tough.

The apartment was located on the second and third floor. So having to go up and down the stairs, especially just to use the bathroom or change a diaper, wasn’t so fun.

The kitchen was on the small side, as was the dining space. This was tough when I lost my office to our house guests, as it meant Colin and I both had to crowd our laptops onto the small dining table.

But overall, the smalls minuses of this place were nothing compared to the huge pluses. I was so happy in our Brighton apartment and would heartily recommend it to anyone visiting Brighton!

Getting around Brighton

Being based in North Laine, we found Brighton to be extremely walkable. In two months of living in Brighton and going out every day, we only took the bus twice. Everywhere else, we walked!

The two times we did have to take the bus were also very easy. We only had to walk a couple of minutes to the bus stop and fares were very affordable. Brighton does have some hills, so I could see how taking the bus would be handy.

We also could have done some easy day trips from Brighton, since we were right next to the train station. We had planned to go to Lewes and Portsmouth but ran out of time. But both would’ve been very easy to reach by train.

My dad actually did a London day trip from Brighton, since London is only an hour by train. And when we flew to Malaga for Baby C’s birthday, it was an easy 30 minute train ride from Brighton to Gatwick Airport.

My favourite things to do in Brighton, UK

Here are my top five favourite things to do in Brighton:

1. Watch the murmuration of starlings off Brighton Palace Pier: This natural phenomenon was one of the coolest things we witnessed in Brighton. Go to the pier for sunset and you won’t be disappointed.
2. Visit the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery: I was super impressed by this regional museum. The exhibits were so varied and engaging with lots of interactive areas for kids and local tie-ins.
3. Stroll along the beach to the Band Stand, Brighton i360 and Hove Beach Huts: On a beautiful day in Brighton, there’s nothing better than a walk along the beach past some of the city’s most iconic sites.
4. Tour the Royal Pavilion: I was totally blown away by this Indo-Chinese pavilion in the middle of an English city. The outer architecture is cool but the inside, particularly the dining room and ballroom, are just as stunning.
5. Hang out in North Laine: Get to know our neighbourhood of North Laine where you can spend the day browsing shops, admiring street art and popping into cafes.

Looking for more? Stay tuned for my post on the best things to do in Brighton!

My favourite restaurants, cafes & pubs in Brighton

We ate so well that I’m writing up separate guides to all of Brighton’s best restaurants and all of Brighton’s best cafes, so you’ll know exactly where to eat and drink when you visit.

But in the meantime, here are a few of my favourites:

• Coffee at 33: This was our local cafe and it was so lovely! Great drinks, great pastries and great humans behind the counter.
• Taro: This was the best sushi we found in Brighton (and actually beats a lot of the sushi places we’ve tried in London too).
• The Grand: We came here three times for afternoon tea and every time it was such a delight! A bit of a splurge, but worth it for the experience and all of the delicious food.

• La Choza: I’m not a Mexican food expert but I thought this place was delicious and have heard people say it’s the most authentic Mexican food in the city.
• Earl’s and Crunch & Co: For the best banh mis and toasties in Brighton, go to these two sandwich shops located next to one another.
• The Eagle: This classic British pub serves some of the best Thai food I’ve ever had. I know it sounds odd, but just trust me on this one!

• Cielo Cakery: So many delicious brownie flavours and not nearly enough stomach space to try them all.
• Bincho Yakitori: You’ll have to reserve in advance to eat at this Japanese tapas restaurant but the delicious skewers and small plates will be worth the wait.
• The Geese: Once again, make your reservation in advance to enjoy their famous and award-winning Sunday roast!
• Moksha Cafe: If you’ve never had a brunch burger, head to Moksha Cafe and order one now.

4 tips I’d give someone wanting to visit Brighton, UK

Whether you’re planning a short visit or you’re going to move to Brighton, here are a few tips to help you enjoy your time in this awesome city:

1. Don’t discount the off-season

A lot of people think of Brighton as a beach destination where you spend summer holidays. But I think you should considering planning a trip to Brighton in the winter!

We lived in Brighton from December to February and I thought it was a great time to be there. Yes, we got some rainy and cold days, but there were plenty of sunny days too.

The off-season in Brighton is also a lot less crowded than the summer, meaning cheaper accommodation, fewer lines, tables available at restaurants, and more space to enjoy the city.

I thought it was crowded enough whenever the sun was out on a Saturday, so I can’t imagine fighting even bigger crowds in the summer.

2. Stay in a walkable area

Part of the reason why we loved living in Brighton so much is because the city was right at our doorstep. It made all the difference that we could walk to activities, restaurants, cafes, grocery stores, shops and the beach.

If we had to commute into the city every time we wanted to do something, I don’t think I would’ve really appreciated Brighton. The best part of Brighton is being out on the streets with everyone, soaking up the city.

Just watch out for the hills! Certain Brighton neighbourhoods, like Seven Dials, are very hilly, so be sure your regular route doesn’t involve a massive climb back home.

3. Slow down your Brighton itinerary

There aren’t a ton of must-see or must-do things in Brighton. Unlike London, it’s not a city with a billion attractions.

But rather than rush through, I encourage you to slow down and enjoy the city. The real magic of Brighton is found sitting at an outdoor cafe, walking along colourful alleys, browsing vintage stores and strolling along the beach.

So don’t worry about ticking off a bunch of museums, tours or amusement parks – there aren’t that many in Brighton anyway. But do give yourself a few hours free to just walk and enjoy what you find in the city.

4. Make reservations for Sunday roast

The only time we ever got turned away from a restaurant because they were full was for Sunday roast. Not every place, but the popular pubs and restaurants will book up for Sunday roasts in advance. So don’t miss out – make your reservation!

This was our experience in the off-season, so I imagine it’s even worse in the high season. If you’re visiting in summer, you might want to make reservations for any restaurant you’ve got your eye on, not just Sunday roasts.

Wrapping up: Would I live in Brighton again?

In a heart beat! I loved living in Brighton so much. Colin and I actually said that if we ever did end up living in the UK one day, Brighton would probably be our first choice.

Brighton reminded us so much of our home in Vancouver – on the coast, great food, slightly smaller city and friendly locals. It’s incredibly walkable with so many cool neighbourhoods to discover. Plus it’s only an hour away from London!

There are pros and cons of living in Brighton, of course. While a city, it doesn’t have all of the amenities or attractions of London. The cost of living in Brighton is still expensive and it can get overrun with tourists on weekends and in the summer.

But despite a few negatives, I would absolutely choose to live in Brighton again. And I’m so glad we did choose it for two months of our Baby Trip. It was such a privilege to call this city home and get to experience it as a temporary local.

I hope I’ve convinced you to add Brighton to your bucket list – whether that’s to visit or to live!

If you’re curious how we’re making this whole Baby Trip happen, check out the posts below. Or if you want to keep up with our Baby Trip in real time, join me on Substack!