12 Things to Do in Gudauri in Winter for Skiers & Non-Skiers

As the South Caucasus’ premier resort for skiing and snowboarding, Gudauri is a must-visit winter destination in Georgia.

Its location 2 hours north of Tbilisi by road makes it one of the most convenient places in the country to experience snow.

Having passed through Gudauri dozens of times during spring, summer and autumn, I never really understood the attraction. This past winter I finally got a chance to visit Gudauri in the proper season – and everything clicked.

Gudauri genuinely exceeded my expectations. I enjoyed my time there so much, I am already planning my return visit for next winter.

In this guide, I will run through the various activities on offer in Gudauri. Since it is purely a winter resort with nothing much on offer outside of the season (at this point in time, anyway), I will be focusing on winter-appropriate things to do for both skiers and non-skiers.

Are you planning a trip to Gudauri? Also see my Gudauri Travel Tips for helpful pointers (including the best times of year to go and budgeting advice), my Gudauri Transport Guide for how to get there from Tbilisi or Kutaisi, and my detailed Gudauri Accommodation Guide for the best areas to stay (and where to avoid).

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Is Gudauri worth visiting?

Yes, but only in winter.

Gudauri is a ski resort that was established fairly recently in the 1980s. It is not a charming alpine village or an interesting Georgian town. While there are things for non-skiers to do in Gudauri and its vicinity in the wintertime, there are not many summer activities on offer. If you are visiting this part of Georgia outside of winter, then I strongly recommend you stay in Kazbegi instead.

Up until a few months ago, I had no real interest in visiting Gudauri. I love winter, but I am not a skier, and my limited experience with the resort gave me the impression that I wouldn’t enjoy it.

I was wrong: Gudauri in winter is something special – not because of the resort itself, but because of the majestic winter landscapes in Gudauri and further north towards Kobi and Stepantsminda.

Nothing beats the Greater Caucasus, and because Gudauri is entirely above the treeline, the panoramas are phenomenal from every angle.

Most years, Gudauri receives snow from December until the end of March. The ski lifts open in mid-December and continue operating until spring (usually the middle of April). It is absolutely worthwhile planning a trip to Gudauri in this period.

Note that the photos in this guide were all taken during the first week of February, when there was heavy snowfall and plenty of powder.

Most people will find 3 full days in Gudauri is more than sufficient, while dedicated skiers and snowboarders might want to add on a couple more days.

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The best things to do in Gudauri in winter

1. Ski or snowboard at Gudauri Ski Resort

I should preface this by saying that I am not exactly an experienced skier. Prior to this, my one and only ski experience was as a teenager. Let’s just say I was not a natural.

I was very nervous about skiing in Georgia and honestly wanted to get my first ski lesson over and done with so that I could relax. But those few hours on the slopes with my teacher, Alex, turned out to be the highlight of my trip.

As a resort, Gudauri definitely has its flaws. But I really do think it’s an exceptional place to ski. There is a good mix of runs suitable for beginners, it is very affordable, gear hire is easy, and the scenery is absolutely stunning. If you pick the right week to visit, it is not at all crowded on the slopes. There were no wait times for any of the lifts when we visited in early February.

If you’re a beginner skier or snowboarder like me, Gudauri is a fine place to test the waters and experiment. There are plenty of gentle slopes where you can just mess around and have fun, and even some of the intermediate runs are suitable for novices.

If you’re an advanced skier, Gudauri is going to be something different and dare I say a bit more adventurous compared to your average European skiing holiday. As well as a couple of black runs, there is night skiing on weekends and opportunities for going off-piste.

Whichever camp you fall into, I highly recommend giving skiing or snowboarding a try.

There are several ski schools in Gudauri that offer lessons for adults and kids plus guided freeriding and ski touring. I did my lessons with Vagabond Adventures, which is widely regarded as one of the best outfits in Georgia in terms of experience and safety. I enjoyed my lesson from start to finish, and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them.

Private lessons for groups of up to four people run for 2.5 hours and cost 120 USD. Book online and use the code wanderlush10 for 10% off.

2. Ride the ski lifts

If you’re not interested in skiing but you still want to soak up Gudauri’s incredible mountain landscapes, then your best bet is to go for a joyride on the ski lifts.

I set aside a full day to try out all the different lifts and gondolas – each one offers a different view and several take you to different ‘levels’ of the resort where you will find restaurants, cafes and bars.

Before I arrived in Gudauri, I was a bit confused about the etiquette around the chairlifts. I discovered that you do not need to be skiing or snowboarding in order to use the lifts. Majority of the lifts in Gudauri are not ski-off – meaning you can simply jump out and walk off.

The ground around the lifts can be icy and slippery, so you definitely do need shoes that are suitable for the snow and have a very good grip.

Because most people do ski off, you will not see many people travelling down on the lifts. However, it is possible to board at any of the top stations and go down on any of the lifts – or if you don’t like the look of what’s at the top, you can simply stay seated in your place and loop back around.

Here is a quick break-down of the main lifts you can ride in Gudauri (find pins for the approximate locations of all stations on my Gudauri map, linked below):

• Pirveli: The ‘first’ lift, starting from Old Gudauri. At the top, connect directly to the Soliko lift or walk to New Gudauri.
• Soliko: One of the longest chairlifts, with fantastic views of New Gudauri. It runs up to the Recreation Area where there are more cafes and restaurants plus several other lifts.
• Shino: Runs from the snow park down to the highway. It is less scenic, and there is nothing much to see or do at the bottom. But it’s nice and long and still worth the trip.
• Kudebi: Runs from the Recreation Area up Mount Kudebi (3,006 metres). This lift was closed at the time of our visit.
• Sadzele: Runs from the Recreation Area up Mount Sadzele (3,276 metres). This lift was also closed and very rarely operates (if you have seen that infamous video of an out-of-control ski lift in Gudauri, this was the one).
• New Goodaura: Runs from New Gudauri and is only for skiers – I don’t recommend riding this one unless you are going to ski down.
• Snow Park: Runs from the Recreation Area to several ski runs. This lift was too steep to disembark on foot – I don’t recommend this one either.

There are also four enclosed gondolas in Gudauri called Goodaura, Firni, Kobi and Truso. I am covering these separately in point #3 below.

All of the abovementioned lines are served by open four or six-seater chairs. They have safety bars, and some have plastic bubbles that you can pull down to shelter yourself from the wind. Or you can leave them open to take photos unobstructed.

I recommend sitting on the outer edge of the chairlift so that you can break away more easily at the end. You do have to walk or shuffle quickly when you disembark so that the chair doesn’t swing around and hit you!

If you want to make a day of riding the various lifts, disembarking and walking around the different parts of the resort as you go, then I suggest you buy a One Day Pass. In 2024, this was priced at 70 GEL for adults and 35 GEL for kids. You also need to buy a rechargeable Multicard for 5 GEL (refundable if you return the card with your receipt).

The lifts operate every day from 10am until 5pm (December to February) or 9am until 4pm (March and April). Ticket booths are located at every bottom station plus at the top Pirveli station and observe the same opening hours. Both cash and card are accepted. When boarding the lifts, swipe your card once on the electronic reader located on the left side of the turnstile at knee level.

3. Cross the Jvari Pass on the Kobi Gudauri Cable Car

The Kobi Gudauri Cable Car is a set of four enclosed gondolas that run from New Gudauri over the Kobi Pass and down into the next valley. Of all the lifts in Gudauri, this is by far the most scenic and fun.

The Upper Kobi station is located at 2,900 metres and offers panoramic views of Mount Kazbek. It is probably the most beautiful, awe-inspired mountain view I have seen anywhere in Georgia.

Unlike the ski lifts mentioned above, the cable car was constructed for transportation purposes to give people passage over the mountains in winter when the Georgian Military Highway temporarily closes. There are blue ski runs from the Firni and Kobi stations, but the majority of people who ride the gondolas are there for the scenery.

The cable is 9.5 kilometres (5.9 miles) in total and can take anywhere from 30-60 minutes one-way. In winter, it observes the same hours as the other lifts.

In the summer months, the cable car is normally open from 11am until 5pm. The gondolas close for several weeks every spring and autumn for maintenance.

Return tickets cost 45 GEL for adults or 35 GEL for kids. Multipasses (e.g. the One Day Pass) are also valid for the gondolas.

Find more details and tips in my Kobi Gudauri Cable Car Guide.

4. Go snowshoe hiking in the valleys around Gudauri

The Kazbegi area north of Gudauri, especially the Juta and Truso Valleys, is known for its alpine trails. Hiking season typically runs from late June until early October. I was very pleased to find that there are also opportunities to explore the valleys in winter by donning a pair of snowshoes.

Vagabond Adventures offers several guided snowshoe expeditions that range from 4-hour day hikes to overnight treks. In the interests of safety, your guide will modify the route depending on weather and ground conditions.

Ross and I spent a day hiking in the Sioni Valley with our guide, Eva. Sioni is a breathtaking location with interesting rock formations all around, and snowshoeing was a lot more fun (and less challenging) than I expected. We were lucky enough to score a stunning blue-sky day.

On our way out of the valley, we stopped at the 10th-century Sioni Basilica. This beautiful little church on a hill with carved wooden doors and a stone tower nearby is well worth stopping off for if you are driving through Sioni.

Next time I visit Gudauri I would love to try the 7-kilometre day hike to Lomisa Monastery. This is the site of Lomisoba, a pre-Christian festival that takes place in spring.

A big thank-you once again to Vagabond for hosting our hike!

5. Take a side trip to Kazbegi & Gergeti Trinity Church

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the magnificent Gergeti Trinity Church are located around 40 kilometres or an hour by road further north from Gudauri towards the Russian border. If you are staying in Gudauri, it’s well worth it to take a day out of your skiing schedule and make the trip up.

To get to Kazbegi from Gudauri, I recommend taking the Kobi Cable Car all the way to the final station, then organising a local taxi to travel the remaining 25 kilometres. This should cost around 80-100 GEL. If you are in need of a driver, you can try contacting Mirza (Kazbegi-based) on +995 551 22 98 89.

In winter, you won’t be able to hike to Gergeti Trinity, but you can hire a local Delica taxi to drive you up and back. This should cost somewhere in the neighbourhood of 50-70 GEL per car or 15-20 GEL per person, depending on the size of your group.

There are plenty of other things to do in Kazbegi, including Ioane Natlismcemeli Monastery and lunch overlooking the mountains at Rooms Hotel.

6. Visit the Gudauri Panorama Viewpoint (Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument)

Also outside Gudauri but much closer to the ski resort, the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument (or Panorama Gudauri Viewpoint) is a colourful Soviet-era mosaic raised on a platform that commands incredible views of the mountains and valleys around Gudauri.

In winter, it might be too foggy to see very far (we had a complete white-out when we ventured up!). On a blue-sky day, you can see far and wide through the valleys.

The mosaic is located 6 kilometres or 15 minutes by road from New Gudauri. If you are travelling by road to Kazbegi, you can easily stop off here along the way.

In Gudauri, local taxis are available from the bus station near the Smart supermarket (see the exact location here). Expect to pay around 80 GEL for a driver to take you up and back.

If you haven’t guessed by now, taxi prices in this area are much higher than in other parts of Georgia – unfortunately, there is no way around it. Bolt app works here, but the cohort of drivers is much smaller.

7. Go sledding, tubing or ice skating – or just frolic in the snow

A lot of tourists come to Gudauri for their first encounter with snow. If you don’t have the time or confidence to go skiing, there are other ways to enjoy the powder. These activities are also great for kids.

You will find sleds and tubes available for hire in both New and Old Gudauri. The gentle slopes around the bottom of the Goodaura gondola station are ideal for playing around. You will also find a magic carpet lift here that kids (and adults!) can use for skiing. A little further down the road, there is a platter lift and a very nice patch of terrain that doesn’t see much traffic.

The whole New Gudauri area is suitable for walking around. If there is fresh powder and you want to make a snowman or have a snowball fight, I recommend the flat terrain around this viewpoint or the hill on the eastern side of the Goodaura bottom gondola station.

There is an ice skating rink in New Gudauri at this location. It only seems to operate in the late afternoon and evening.

Paragliding is also available in Gudauri, with prices starting from 300 GEL for a 10-minute flight.

8. Walk to the Ascension Church

Every Georgian city/town/village needs a church – even ski resorts like Gudauri. The main church here is Amaglebis Eklesia or Ascension Church, located in Old Gudauri across the valley from the Marco Polo Hotel.

I had seen photos of this pretty orange-crested church online, but had no idea where to search for it. Turns out one of the best vantage points is from the carpark in front of the Smart supermarket, right by the Dunkin Donuts.

If you want a closer look, it is possible to walk down to the church via the road that GeoGraphy Hotel is on. As it is a new church, the interior is quite simple. There is at least one monk living in the adjacent house who can open the doors for you and show you around.

In late summer, the meadows that surround the church are engulfed by wildflowers.

9. Stop by the old post office

I often see Gudauri written as ‘Gudauri (Posta)’ on Georgian news sites. I assume this refers to the post office, the oldest building in Gudauri and one of very few structures that predates the development of the ski resort in the late 1980s.

In the past, people from the villages around Gudauri would come here to send and receive their mail. In this way it was something of a lifeline between the isolated mountains and the rest of the world – and I imagine something greatly valued in winter when the road might have been cut off for long periods.

The post office is located on the side of the highway as you leave Gudauri and head towards the panoramic viewpoint and Kazbegi. The stone building is unfortunately abandoned and derelict, but there are some beautiful little details still visible on its facade.

If you’re into urbexing and photography, don’t miss it. I visited the former post office last spring, which is why my photo is the odd one out in this guide!

10. Wind down with a sauna

Gudauri has a couple of saunas for apres-ski. These are nothing like the sulfur baths in Tbilisi – they are closer to banyas.

The most popular one is Tsar Bani, which is located off the highway on the way into New Gudauri. It has three log cabin-style steam rooms that can accommodate up to six people each.

Staff here are specially trained and use beech wood and aromatherapy for the banya ritual. In addition to a towel and slippers, guests get a felt hat to wear throughout. Bookings can be made online via the Tsar Bani website (pay with PayPal) or in person.

Sauna Luxe is a spa-style centre located in the bottom of one of the New Gudauri apartment blocks. It offers a sauna (from 150 GEL per person for 2 hours) and massage (from 140 GEL).

Several hotels including Gudauri Lodge and the Best Western have spa-saunas that are open to walk-in guests. Call ahead for a reservation.

11. Fuel up at a Gudauri restaurant

Georgian food is incredibly vibrant, diverse and vegetarian-friendly. Yet a large portion of traditional dishes originate from the north and can only be described as ‘hardy mountain fare’.

Normally I am not one to order khachapuri – I very rarely eat it unless it’s part of a large spread at a dinner or event. In Gudauri, I craved it. Turns out warm, doughy bread stuffed with high-calorie melted cheese is just the thing you need after a few hours traipsing through the snow!

I don’t think it’s controversial to say that Gudauri’s food offerings are a little underwhelming. Restaurants are notoriously overpriced for one thing.

Of the half a dozen restaurants we ate at in Gudauri, there are only three that I would recommend. Drunk Cherry in New Gudauri has high-quality food and friendly staff. Nadiani does excellent soups and khachapuri and has a nice vibe. Pasanauri on the highway near Old Gudauri was the best value restaurant we found. However, portion sizes were a little small compared to the chain’s other venues in Tbilisi.

I didn’t get a chance to try the restaurant at Ati Ambavi Boutique Hotel. After hearing many glowing reviews, it is on my list for next time.

For a quick snack or something to take away, Cafe Gondola in the Recreation Zone does delicious homemade pastries stuffed with cheese, cabbage, and a bunch of other fillings. It is excellent value for money. Thanks to our Vagabond guide Eva for introducing us to this place!

One place I can not recommend is Cafe Vitamin Gudauri in the Recreation Area. Coffee is served in paper cups and is absurdly expensive – and at the time of our visit, staff wouldn’t let you use the bathrooms inside.

12. Enjoy apres-ski at one of the bars in Gudauri

There are two bars in New Gudauri that we particularly enjoyed: Black Dog Bar (for craft beer and bar snacks – they also have two bars in Tbilisi) and Gudauri Travel Bar (for cocktails). Both have a nice ambiance and professional service.

We found that tables book out in the evening, so I highly recommend you visit before 7pm or make a reservation.

If apres-ski is one of your priorities, then I do recommend staying in New Gudauri where there are several bars (including my two favourites) within walking distance.

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Gudauri map

Click here to open a map of Gudauri with all major points of interest, restaurants and bars marked out.

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Where to stay in Gudauri

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More resources for Gudauri, Kazbegi & winter travel in Georgia