Guide to the Old Royal Naval College and Painted Hall, London
16 min readWhen exploring things to do in Greenwich, London, you will likely come across the Old Royal Naval College and its famous Painted Hall, often hailed as London’s Sistine Chapel. This...
The post Guide to the Old Royal Naval College and Painted Hall, London appeared first on Timeless Travel Steps.
When exploring things to do in Greenwich, London, you will likely come across the Old Royal Naval College and its famous Painted Hall, often hailed as London’s Sistine Chapel. This historical landmark is an essential stop on any London itinerary and is sure to leave you awestruck.
However, the Old Royal Naval College offers much more beyond the Painted Hall. I recently visited the Old Royal Naval College and Painted Hall and discovered that there is so much more to experience than what is commonly written about in typical guides.
Therefore, I will provide a comprehensive guide detailing what to expect during your visit, all the key attractions, including essential tips to ensure you don’t miss anything. This detailed guide to all the attractions within the Old Royal Naval College, along with practical information for your visit, is the only guide you need to plan your visit.
You’ll find an overview of the history of the Old Royal Naval College, guide to the Painted Hall, the Chapel, Ripley Tunnel and lots more.
Read along…
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Painted Hall Entry Ticket Options
1. A stand-alone entry ticket to the Painted Hall: This includes a Guided Tour (optional) of 600-year history of the Old Royal Naval College, Painted Hall, Blockbuster Film Location Tour, Chapel of St Peter & St Paul, and the Wrigley Tunnel. Check Reviews and BOOK.
2. London Pass for 2 or 3 Days which grants you access to 90+ attractions in London, return trips on the Thames River Cruise and entry to the Old Royal Naval College, including the Painted Hall + All of the above Optional Guided Tours + Multi Media use. Check REVIEWS and BOOK.
3. A Combination Ticket: One-way boat cruise on the Thames Clipper + Entry to the Painted Hall, including All the Optional Tours. Check Reviews and BOOK.
Essential Tips for Visiting The Old Royal Naval College and Painted Hall with a Ticket
Visiting the Painted Hall requires a ticket. However, what most people do not know is that a ticket to the Painted Hall includes three optional guided tours, a visitor guide encompassing a map, and a multi-media guide to the Painted Hall. In addition, your ticket is valid for the whole day even though you select a time-slot when booking online. You can explore at your own comfort and pace, making it a day full of discovery and enjoyment.
The optional guided tours, include one about the 600-year history tour, which lasts between 30-45 minutes, a Blockbuster Film Tour lasting 60 minutes, and the other is about the Painted Hall, lasting 30 minutes. All three tours are highly informative and well worth going for.
The 600-Year History Tour of the Old Royal Naval College
The history tour offered by the Royal Museums Greenwich begins at the Visitor Centre, where you collect your pre-booked ticket. This tour begins at 11:00 AM on the hour, and there is one on the hour every hour thereafter until 4:00 PM. It lasts for 30-45 minutes.
When you join this tour, the tour guide will take you through the rich history of the Old Royal Naval College, a walk along the river front to the quadrants, highlighting essential information about the seamen’s living conditions, a tour of the Chapel, a walk through the Ripley tunnel, ending at the Painted Hall.
At this point, you can either take a break at the cafe, or continue on with the Painted Hall tour. You don’t have to wait long at all.
Personally, I found joining the history tour enriched my experience. I asked questions and received answers, unlike when a multi-media kit is used where it is only for listening. If you have the time, go along to one.
PRO TIP: You don’t need a ticket to wander the grounds of the Old Royal Naval College. The grounds are free, and you can explore anytime the gates are open.
Tour of The Painted Hall
Your ticket to the Painted Hall allows for a guided tour and/or a multi-media guide. I think the multi-media guide is essential for exploring the Hall and understanding the artwork and history, especially if you wish to explore independently. These are available at the information desk, situated at the entrance to the Painted Hall near the cafe.
Guided tours of 30 minutes are also available and included in the ticket price. These tours take place every half-hour from 11:00 AM onwards until 4:00 PM. There are several tours happening at the same time, in small groups, which makes it convenient for you without having to wait long.
The tour guides are absolutely brilliant. They are informative, professional, and provide an in-depth explanation of the highlights. Their story-telling truly brings the images to life.
PRO TIP: If you prefer, provided time is not of the essence during your visit, you could do both. You could join the guided tour of 30 minutes, and afterwards explore independently with the multi-media guide for a deeper understanding of the exquisite craftsmanship.
Tour of the Blockbuster Film Locations
Discover the extensive history of films made at the Old Royal Naval College, known as “the most popular filming location in the world” according to Empire magazine. This captivating tour spans over 90 years of cinematic history, showcasing unforgettable moments filmed on the picturesque riverside grounds and inside the stunning Painted Hall.
Tours lasts 60 minutes, included in your ticket price, and must be pre-booked on their official website.
History of the Old Royal Naval College
The Old Royal Naval College, with its magnificent architecture and beautiful grounds, has a rich history. This remarkable masterpiece is a highlight of any visit to Greenwich, London. The site originally housed Greenwich Palace, the favourite residence of Tudor King Henry VIII.
In 1694, King William III, honouring the wishes of his wife Queen Mary II, commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to transform the site into a Royal Hospital for Seamen, intended to rival Chelsea Hospital which was dedicated to army veterans. The Royal Hospital for Seamen closed in 1869, making way for the establishment of the Royal Naval College, which served as a training facility for naval officers until 1998.
The construction of the Old Royal Naval College took several decades to complete. The complex is divided into four quadrants, each built during different periods. This transformation resulted in a British landmark considered one of the finest buildings globally.
The Painted Hall at Old Royal Naval College
Often compared to Rome’s Sistine Chapel, the Painted Hall in London spans an awe-inspiring 4,000 square meters, with elaborate ceiling and wall decorations, filled with the finest baroque art. Unlike the Sistine Chapel, you can explore the Painted Hall at your own pace, unhurried, making it a personal and less crowded experience.
The Hall was originally designed by Sir Christopher Wren as a dining room for seamen. It was decorated by the renowned British artist James Thornhill, who commenced work in 1707. He took nineteen years to complete the masterpiece, finishing in 1726.
According to legend, Thornhill’s dedication to the project was so intense that it affected his health, with his posture permanently altered due to the long hours spent painting on his back. Despite these challenges, Thornhill was handsomely rewarded for his work and he was knighted by King George I in 1720.
When it was finally finished, the Painted Hall was considered to be too grand, thus was never used as a dining room. Instead, it was opened to the public for a viewing fee and special functions.
It was here, in the Painted Hall, at the Upper section, where Admiral Lord Nelson lay in state in 1806 for three days. There is a plaque on the floor that indicates where exactly he laid. Adjoining to the Upper Hall, you’ll see a room dedicated to the life of Nelson. Bright, airy, with a beautiful roof lantern and, lovingly preserved, this was a records room at the time where Nelson was first brought to from the Battle of Trafalgar, in preparation for his funeral.
In 1937 the Painted Hall began to serve its original purpose; it was used as a dining room for trainee officers of the Royal Navy until 1997. The hall was closed for restoration in 2016, a project costing over £8 million. It has now reopened with its vivid colours fully restored, for everyone to enjoy this remarkable creation, one of the best places to visit in London.
The Artwork in the Painted Hall
The Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College features grand walls and columns, and is set on two parts, Lower and Upper Hall.
In the Lower Hall, the ceiling is adorned with a vibrant and complex mix of allegorical and historical figures. The intricate artwork celebrates the British naval power, depicting naval successes, and the political change brought about by the Glorious Revolution of 1688-1689. Central figures in the ceiling fresco include King William III and Queen Mary II, who are depicted in a grand apotheosis, signifying their ascension to power and the prosperity that followed.
The Upper Hall continues the celebration of the Protestant succession, featuring Queen Anne and George I. The ceiling and the West Wall centerpiece depict King George I surrounded by his children and grandchildren, emphasizing the stability and continuity of the British monarchy. The artwork reinforces themes of naval power, political stability, and cultural achievements, similar to the Lower Hall.
The attention to detail is incredible, and honestly, it is one of the best places I have visited, and should top every visitor’s itinerary in London.
TIP: To fully appreciate the marvellous work of Thornhill on the ceiling of the Painted Hall, try lying on the comfortable carved oak day beds, perfectly positioned, to view the art. It is believed that this is how Lord Nelson viewed the art also.
Family Visits
If you’re visiting with family, be sure to explore the new family-friendly trails that include sensory backpacks. Children will enjoy the two ‘treasure chests’ in the Painted Hall, which contain thirteen interactive items connected to the ceiling. These include costumes such as a crown, a cloak, and a replica of King William’s Red Cap of Liberty.
Practical Information for the Painted Hall
Access to the Painted Hall is through the King William Undercroft. It has been recently renovated to include visitor facilities, a shop, a cafe, and a gallery.
A lift in the undercroft now allows wheelchair access to the Painted Hall for the first time.
The Painted Hall Cafe is a welcoming space, to relax and enjoy a range of refreshments and high quality seasonal fare.
The Painted Hall is open daily from 10 am to 5 pm, except on some public holidays. Booking tickets online in advance is highly recommended.
For those travelling during the summer or school breaks and weekends, it’s best to secure tickets ahead of time and visit early in the morning to avoid the busiest times.
Exploring the Old Royal Navy College: The Highlights
As you explore the College surroundings, you may find some of the buildings familiar, as the complex is a popular filming location for films and television series. such as “Four Weddings and a Funeral,” “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider,” and “The Madness of King George.” The site has appeared in other significant films such as “Les Misérables,” “Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides,” “Thor: The Dark World,” “Skyfall,” and the Netflix series “The Crown.”
The Royal Hospital for Seamen closed in 1869, and part of the complex served as a naval training college until 1996. Today, the University of Greenwich and Trinity Laban Conservatoire of Music and Dance hold classes there. You’ll hear the sweet sound of melodies and choir practices as you walk around the grounds.
The rest of the building and grounds at the Old Royal Naval College are open to the public, and are free.
As you walk along the river to the quadrants, you’ll notice the remnants of the old pier and the main entrance to the palace, now marked by grand gates adorned with iconic symbols.
The Domed Towers atop King William and Queen Mary Blocks and Covered Walkways
The Royal Naval College is famous for its iconic twin domed towers, a view captured in almost every photograph of the site. It’s a striking landmark against the backdrop of the River Thames.
You’ll observe that the quadrants are symmetrical, designed to provide Queen Mary with an unobstructed view of the River Thames from the Queen’s House. Wren did a remarkable job, not sparing any unnecessary inches in his meticulous design. The green space between the quadrants is a perfect spot for taking in the architectural beauty of the surrounding buildings, namely the King William and Queen Mary blocks.
The domed towers atop the King William and Queen Mary blocks are reminiscent of St Paul’s Cathedral, albeit smaller. Each tower features a clock face, with one telling the time and the other indicating compass directions, originally intended to aid ships navigating the Thames.
A key architectural highlight is the elegant rows of classical columns that create covered walkways. These colonnades not only provide a grand symmetrical perspective that exemplies Wren’s meticulous attention to detail, but also beautifully frame the views of the river and the surrounding buildings.
Chapel of St Peter & St Paul at The Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich
Located opposite the Painted Hall, the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul was part of the original design by Wren for the Royal Hospital for Seamen. This neo-classical chapel was rebuilt by James ‘Athenian’ Stuart after a fire in 1779. For me, this is one of the most beautiful chapels I’ve been to, and I’ve been to a good number over the years.
The ambiance is serene, bright and airy. The elaborate ceiling, marble flooring, and a magnificent organ by Samuel Green, along with numerous decorative elements which make it a destination worth visiting. Nautical themes are woven throughout the chapel, with an anchor prominently inlaid in the center of the floor, rope designs adorning the sides. The ceiling of the side aisles showcase intricately designed wave patterns.
Take a closer look, and you’ll notice the significant Wedgwood influence, popularized by Josiah Wedgwood, a renowned English potter and designer. The chapel’s decor features delicate pastel hues of “Wedgwood Blue,” classical motifs, and ornamental details that echo the elegance and refinement characteristic of Wedgwood’s work. Look up for a breathtaking sight! You’ll see the beautiful pastel blue on the ceiling, in an intricate neo-classical design of squares and octagons, by John Papworth.
To truly appreciate the beauty of this chapel, take a moment to sit and soak in the tranquility of the space. About 10 – 15 minutes is sufficient to enjoy the ambiance, longer if you wish, especially for photography. Be sure to visit either before or after exploring the Painted Hall. I visited the Chapel as part of the history tour, and returned after the Painted Hall tour to simply take in the elegance of it all.
The Chapel of St Peter and St Paul is an active place of worship and is open to visitors from Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm, and on Sundays from 12.30 pm. There is a Service at 1:00 pm., Monday to Friday for anyone who wishes to join in.
King William & Queen Mary Undercroft
Beneath the Painted Hall is the King William Undercroft, now home to the Painted Hall Café, a retail shop, and an interpretation gallery. When this part of the Old Royal Naval College was renovated, it revealed rooms from Henry VIII’s Greenwich Palace, believed to be service rooms and winter storage for royal beehives.
The Queen Mary Undercroft is situated beneath the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul, opposite the Skittle Alley. An elegant room, primarily used for private functions. It’s not usually open to the public. When I visited, the doors were open, so I could take a quick photo from the entrance.
The café is open daily from 10 am to 4.30 pm.
Ripley Tunnel
The Ripley Tunnel, also known as the Chalk Walk, is a historic 200-foot-long subterranean passage at the Old Royal Naval College that links the Queen Mary and King William blocks.
Designed by Thomas Ripley, it was built to facilitate easy movement for staff and seamen, especially in the winter months. Lined with naval officers’ coats of arms, including those of Admiral Lord Nelson, it honours the College’s naval heritage. The tunnel features unique acoustics that amplify sounds, enhancing the atmospheric experience.
Ripley Tunnel is Open daily from 10 am to 5 pm and free to visit.
Victorian Skittle Alley
Located at the end of the Ripley Tunnel, beneath the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul, this historic bowling alley is a fun activity for visitors, especially families. Built for retired sailors residing at the College, the skittle alley dates back to Victorian 1864. The alley with original lanes still in use today, features wooden skittles and balls from old ship timber.
Have a go at this fascinating piece of history, created for the amusement of the Greenwich Pensioners. I gave it a try, though not very successfully, I must admit. I managed to hit just two skittles on my first attempt. The balls are heavy and lack finger holes, but I guess this adds to the authenticity of the Victorian game.
The Skittle Alley is open daily from 12 pm to 3 pm, and is free to visit.
How Long to Visit the Painted Hall and Old Royal Naval College
Plan to spend at least an hour to an hour and a half at the Old Royal Naval College to fully explore the Painted Hall and other attractions. If you wish to stroll through the tranquil grounds and admire the buildings from the outside, allow a bit more time.
I allowed myself around three hours to fully immerse in the artwork and history of the Old Royal Naval College. I also enjoyed a small picnic on the greens of the quadrants. The colonnades were another favourite spot, providing me an opportunity to relax in the shade.
PRO TIP: For a splendid view of the complex, take the Greenwich Foot Tunnel that runs beneath the River Thames to the other side, Island Gardens on the Isle of Dogs. The view is truly nice.
Additional Information for Visiting The Old Royal Naval College and Painted Hall
As you may have gathered by now, apart from the Painted Hall, all other mentioned attractions are free to enter.
Hours: The Painted Hall, Chapel, and Visitor Centre is open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM Daily. The Old Royal Naval College grounds are open from 8:00 AM to 11:00 PM.
Facilities and Accessibility: The building is wheelchair accessible, with elevators and ramps. Baby changing rooms are also available.
Places to Eat: You can enjoy a delicious meal at the on-site Old Brewery, which includes a café, bar, and restaurant serving locally sourced, high-quality British food. If it’s a light meal or a quick beverage, you may like the Painted Hall café for its quiet ambiance. Greenwich town itself offers a good range of places to eat, such as the Greenwich Tavern and Trafalgar Tavern offering traditional pub grub or the many restaurants offering International cuisines.
Places Nearby: Don’t miss the famous Tulip Staircase at the Queen’s House, just a few minutes’ walk from the Old Royal Naval College. This quick, free visit is well worth your time. If you have time, make a stop at the National Maritime Museum, the world’s largest of its kind, and the Royal Observatory, home of the Meridian, where Time begins.
Location: The Old Royal Naval College is a short walk from the Cutty Sark station and the harbour where boats from Central London dock.
Travel Tips on Getting to the Old Royal Naval College + Painted Hall Ticket
Some consider Greenwich to be quite far from London, but it really isn’t. As a London local, I can assure you that you can get to Greenwich in about 20 to 30 minutes with DLR, by Tube or a river cruise, which is a lot quicker than a journey from one end to the other on the central London tube.
I’d suggest opting for the more scenic option of a river cruise, departing from several points such as from the Tower of London, London Eye, Tower Bridge, sailing past some of the iconic sites such as the Walkie-Talkie, Shard, Big Ben, and St Paul’s Cathedral, literally docking at the foot of the Old Royal Navy College.
Consider purchasing a London Pass for two to three days to fully explore and experience the diverse attractions London has to offer. This pass grants you access to numerous iconic landmarks, and return trips on the Thames River Cruise and entry to the Old Royal Naval College, including the Painted Hall. The London Pass not only saves you money but also offers the convenience of fast-track entry at select sites, maximizing your time in the city. The price difference between one-day pass and two or three day pass is not significant, making it a cost-effective option. Check the 90+ attractions here. Check REVIEWS and BOOK HERE.
Alternatively, consider purchasing the combination ticket for a one-way river cruise and the Painted Hall ticket.
Additional Resources for Visiting London
More Tips for Your UK Trip
as the deliberate escapist and a mindful wanderer…
Exploring the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich has been a remarkable experience for me, offering a blend of historical and architectural splendour with significant cultural landmarks. Spending time understanding the jaw-dropping artwork at the mesmerizing Painted Hall is an experience I cherish. Walking through the Ripley Tunnel and exploring the Victorian Skittle Alley was fun and provided a unique glimpse into British naval history. The optional guided tours were especially rewarding and added value to my visit. To make the most of your visit, pre-book online here or consider purchasing a London Pass which is incredibly beneficial, offering convenient access to this site and many other top attractions in the city.
Happy and Safe Travels, wherever Travel Takes You, xx
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