Go Your Own Way: A Self-Guided Trip to Scotland and Ireland is Full of Magical Moments

How I customized my trip

I’m grateful to the JourneyWoman readers who provided lots of ideas to help me see the best parts of Ireland and Scotland that weren’t part of the original itinerary provided by Brendan Vacations.

Glasgow: The home of Robert Burns and other poets, Glasgow’s murals tell the story of the city. There’s a sense of humour here, evident in the Duke of Wellington’s statue with the cone, and at the Scotia Pub, founded in 1792 in service to merchant sailors, and later, poets, musicians and actors. Upon arrival, I made my way to Kelvinbridge and joined friends at the Chaakoo Bombay Café and came back a second night for dinner at the Ubiquitous Chip. Check out Inn Deep and the Clutha Bar, as well as craft beer and graffiti tours. (Find local tours here).

Inverness: Arriving in Inverness, I was welcomed by everyone to the ‘real Scotland’. With a quirky city crest of elephants and camels, this is the heart of Scottish independence, as evidenced by Bonnie Prince Charlie’s confidante Fiona Macdonald, who’s a heroine to the Highlanders for spiriting the prince away to the Isle of Skye. The Castle where her statue stands is closed for renovations until 2025, but there’s plenty to see on an old town walking tour. I took a bus to Inverness Airport to rent a car, and drove to Culloden and Clava Cairns (it’s free), with dinner in the lovely town of Nairn. When visiting Inverness, listen for bagpipes and weddings, and stop by Leakey’s Book Shop, The Castle Tavern and MacGregor’s Pub in the evening for live music and cries of ‘haste ye back!’  (Find local tours here).

Edinburgh:  Having been to Edinburgh before, I enjoyed sightseeing on the Royal Mile, but didn’t realize that Edinburgh Castle would be covered in staging for the Edinburgh Tattoo and summer concerts. Don’t bother with the kitschy ghost walk tours. Instead, take a bus to Rosslyn Chapel. I loved staying at the luxury Roseate in Canongate and took the bus to Rose Street in the New Town, which has many outdoor patios and pubs. In practically any city in the UK, if I’m overwhelmed by restaurants, I try the Ivy because I can make a reservation on OpenTable. (Find local tours here).

Dublin: While most tourists flock to the Temple Bar and The Brazen Head, I sat at the bar at the Long Hall Bar to enjoy its Victorian-era furnishings and mirrors. I loved Dublin’s restaurants, including The Green Hen, Chequer Lane, Mr Fox Restaurant, Matt the Thresher, and Mulligan’s. One evening, I took a bus to an EatWith experience to meet other travellers. I also signed up for a 1916 Rebellion walking tour with author Lorcan Collins. There is so much to see in Dublin, including the Irish Emigration Museum (EPIC), Trinity College for the Book of Kells, Guinness Storehouse, Sweney’s Pharmacy, Kilmainham Gaol Museum, the National Library, and Archaeology Museum. I bought a last-minute ticket to a high-spirited evening performance of Riverdance at the Gaiety Theatre and loved my pre-show dinner at the Davy Bynes restaurant. (Find local tours here).