Azerbaijani Flavours: Slow Food tours in north Azerbaijan

Enticing travellers with a unique blend of Silk Road heritage and delicious food culture stemming from a unique geography covering 9 out of 11 climatic zones, Azerbaijan now offers a fresh way to unlock the authentic flavours of the southern Caucasus.

The Greater Caucasus Slow Food Travel route maps an unforgettable journey through the gastronomic heart of the country, winding through the fertile landscapes of northern Azerbaijan. Each stop on the route presents a treasure trove of culinary traditions, starting in the historic city of Shamakhi, and travelling along scenic mountain roads through Ismayilli, Gabala and Sheki, to Gakh. 

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As well as highlighting food heritage, the route also spotlights farms and restaurants that offer a balance of environmental responsibility and cultural immersion.

The Slow Food philosophy

The Greater Caucasus Slow Food Travel initiative has been encouraging appreciation of the region’s food and heritage since 2021. 

The ‘Slow Food’ philosophy is simple – to celebrate local, seasonal produce and the preservation of food heritage. How long you stay is up to you, of course. Simply eat food that is grown and bought locally, prepared with care, and consumed with appreciation.

Thankfully, you won’t go hungry in Azerbaijan. As many as 80 local varieties of produce and specialties are mapped along the route, alongside 60 local partners who offer a wide range of services, from foodie experiences to accommodation.

Sweet traditions in Shamakhi

There’s no simpler way to start our slow food tour of Azerbaijan than with an appreciation of Shamakhi’s diverse local cuisine, taking advantage of the region’s agricultural prowess in meat, dairy and fresh produce.

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As well as producing a wide range of milk products and kebabs, Shamakhi hospitality goes further to serve up many types of plov (pilaf), kebab and shor (layered pastries), alongside sweets such as ter halva (rose confectionary) and Shamakhi sujuk (traditional candy), which is commonly served at imsak and iftar tables during Ramadan.

Try a full spread of dishes at Shamakhi’s roadside cafes and restaurants, including specialties infused with indigenous flavours such as chighirtma (chicken), sabzi (herb) and shuyut (dill), plov. The latter, prepared with mutton, beans, rice, dried fennel and butter, is considered a ceremonial dish.

Shamakhi also cultivates a range of interesting and exclusive wine varieties, including pomegranate and pink grape. To taste the local Madrasa grape, drop in on one of the vineyards in the village of Meysari en route to Ismayilli, learning of the area’s longstanding viticulture heritage. Alternative ways to appreciate Azerbaijan’s Slow Wine movement is with a guesthouse stay at Chateau Monolit near Chabiant Winery.

Harvesting Ata-Baba in Gabala

Up next is Gabala, a city with 2,000 years of heritage and a warm welcome of traditional tea and richal, a sweet speciality made of minced apples, pears, walnuts, raisins and molasses. Though the area is known for winter sports, visit the valley outside of winter to enjoy classical music festivals and scenic hikes through the Ata-Baba hazelnut groves that line the valleys.

Stay at a wellness resort in Vendam village for fine hospitality and family food heritage, venturing out for authentic market experiences and broad spreads of local dishes.

Some twenty kilometres west of Gabala, the Udi population of Nij Village also busies itself with hazelnuts, wine and vodka. Take a guided tour of the village’s historical churches and nut groves, later trying your hand at making walnut gutab, walnut dolma and traditional sweets at a cooking workshop. If you prefer, dine at The Udi to have it all prepared fresh for you.

A masterclass in Sheki Halva

Step inside the Lower Caravanserai into the historic centre of Sheki. Here you’ll find traditional merchant houses, a 19th-century mill and various museums and landmarks all standing testament to the city’s long history of trade. Such trade lives on at the Teze Bazar, where stalls pile high with fresh produce, traditional specialties and crafts.

Sample all kinds of Azerbaijani sweets and pastries while in Sheki, including badambura, pakhlava, bamiya and, of course,* Sheki halva, a melt-in-your-mouth dessert steeped in tradition. Serious sweet-toothed travellers can also take a halva masterclass at Yahya Halva, one of the oldest, family-run confectionery shops in Sheki.

Going off-the-beaten track, Slow Food travellers can discover rural variations of Sheki’s dishes in the pretty village of Kiş, where church ruins tell tales of the Bronze Age. Alternatively, Sheki Bio-Garden offers a tranquil outpost, an innovative, nature-positive farm offering fruit-picking tours and a restaurant specialising in river-to-table trout.

Preserving culinary treasures in Gakh

One last stop in Gakh brings picturesque retreats infused with hiking, hammams and heritage sites, all backed by the stunning nature of Ilisu State Nature Reserve.

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As well as touring the ancient centre of Icheribazar, a visit to any of the surrounding mountain villages can put you in touch with Gakh’s edible heritage, chiefly the unique Marsan tomato and Caucasian Mountain honey. 

One of Azerbaijan’s most remote villages is also found near Gakh. Those who manage to reach Saribash village can expect a warm welcome and servings of tea and local jam. It is said that Saribash offers the best in the region, closely contested by restaurants in Ilusu village.

Honey lovers will wish to make one sweet final stop in Lekit Village where a whole host of honey farms continue the age-old tradition of beekeeping. The family-run Api Delta is one of them, complete with smiling hosts, guesthouse and beekeeping workshops. 

Beyond the itinerary

The list of Azerbaijan’s Slow Food experiences goes on, charting everything from pungent garlic to tangy Buffalo yogurt. Wherever you stop, be sure to savour the warmth of Azerbaijani hospitality, the beauty of its landscapes and the gift of its rich food heritage – the very essence of Slow Food philosophy.

The Great Caucasus Slow Food Travel route

An ambitious initiative funded under the European Union’s COVCHEG project, the Great Caucasus Slow Food Travel route is a regional travel map focused on developing local communities and protecting the nature of the region.

By embarking on the Great Caucasus Slow Food Travel route, you can engage with local communities and help boost the local economy, all while appreciating traditional ‘farm to table’ fare amidst stunning natural scenery.

View the Greater Caucasus Slow Food map to plan your culinary adventure of Azerbaijan.