December 25, 2024

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The South American City with Turquoise Waters and Endless Inspiration

12 min read
The South American City with Turquoise Waters and Endless Inspiration  Thrillist

Cartagena is known to most Americans as a great party destination. You rent a boat, hit the bars, or maybe plan an entire bachelor or bachelorette trip around booze and beaches. Pinterest board photos often showcase the Colombian city’s brightly painted colonial buildings and palenqueras, which certainly define this coastal Caribbean destination, but these images only scrape the surface of what Cartagena has to offer.

Beyond the nightclubs and jet skiing, the natural, cultural, and culinary excellence of Cartagena makes it a truly can’t-miss destination. In the last decade, the city has exploded with world-renowned Colombian restaurants and bars, boutique hotels, and a bevy of adventures. In a city that is no longer considered “off the beaten path,” it is bursting with hidden gems. Plus, you’d be hard pressed to find another place that is more welcoming to international visitors looking to connect with locals.

“I really think that what makes Cartagena special are the people. There is definitely an attitude of resilience. There is a very friendly, warm demeanor of all of the locals,” says Carmen Angel, the owner of two powerhouse restaurants, Carmen and Don Diablo, in Cartagena. “There’s just a very strong desire to leave a mark on your experience in the city.”

As a Colombian who grew up a bit disconnected from my father’s home country, Cartagena was my own entry point to forge a deeper connection to my heritage. My Spanish wasn’t great, and I didn’t know much about Colombia beyond what I read in books and saw on TV. It was a great first place to learn to speak the language and the history, as knowledge is shared generously and graciously.

Speaking with locals, local business owners, repeat visitors, and building on my own experiences this is the guide for people looking to have a deeper and truly unforgettable experience in Cartagena. Ride horses on Caribbean islands, dive pristine reefs, tour truly local markets, and taste some of the best food in the world—whether you’re looking to have a “bang for your buck” budget adventure or want to seek out a new, thoughtful kind of luxury.

Person carrying baskets down the streets of Cartagena, Colombia.Person carrying baskets down the streets of Cartagena, Colombia.
maomejia/iStock/Getty Images

If you don’t do anything else: Go to a Tierra Bomba beach club

The most unmissable part of a trip to Cartagena requires getting out of Old City and taking a 20-minute boat ride. Whether you’re seeking a wellness-oriented trip filled with yoga and spa treatments, want to spend every minute doing adventurous outdoor activities, or are looking to meet new people while you’re spending all day lounging on the beach, the beach clubs of Tierra Bomba have you covered.

“Tierra Bomba is this incredible island,” says Portia Hart, who owns Blue Apple and several other businesses in Cartagena. “And no one has heard of it. If you want to be a smart traveler going to Cartagena and doing something off the beaten track and not the obvious, then Tierra Bomba is your place.”

While Hart owns Blue Apple Beach, she also recommends the beach clubs Amare, Eteka, and Namaste for daytime passes. All are operated by locals and prioritize sustainable and equitable business practices—95% of the money generated by Blue Apple has stayed in Cartagena and the surrounding area.

An aerial view of Tierra Bomba's Blue Apple Beach Club. An aerial view of Tierra Bomba's Blue Apple Beach Club.
Courtesy of Blue Apple

But it won’t just be money well spent supporting the local community. It will also be a blast. Blue Apple offers scuba diving, horseback riding, island moto-tours, mountain biking tours, live music, dance classes, and day passes for their Ibiza-inspired beach club, minus the untz-untz-untz rave. Amare is where you can find more of a full-on party experience, with day passes for the beach and pool, and a delicious food and drink menu.

Eteka offers the most elevated experience, with high-end dining, a deeply soothing aesthetic, and one of the most beautiful, tropical pools you can imagine. Namaste is where you can find true relaxation, with daily yoga, meditation, wood fire circles, and other holistic activities—and you can book a day pass where all of this (plus your typical beach club amenities) are included.

The best thing? These day-long experiences start at around $35 and most include transportation by boat to and from the island. For $50 to $75, you can also expect drink credits, meals, and added activities.

A view of the beach club with chairs, umbrellas, and people walking. A view of the beach club with chairs, umbrellas, and people walking.
Victoria Holguin for Thrillist

Where to go all out in Cartagena

Tour San Basilio de Palenque

Located southeast of Cartagena, San Basilio de Palenque was founded by formerly enslaved people in the 16th century to form the first free African town in the Americas. You cannot visit Cartagena without learning the history of Afro-Colombians, who are integral in shaping the cultural, culinary, and political reality of the region today. Experience Real Cartagena is owned and operated by Alex Rocha, who was born and raised in the barrios of Cartagena and focuses on showcasing Afro-Colombian culture through all of his company’s tours.

Dive the turquoise waters

Cartagena and the surrounding islands are home to beautiful, diverse reef systems which are filled with all sorts of marine life. You can scuba or snorkel the Coral National Park off the coast of Cartagena with Paraiso Dive. The organization not only has efforts to conserve the reef, but also provides training, PADI certifications, and employment to local Colombians.

Take a cooking class

This class comes highly recommended. If you’re looking to get some great views of Cartagena and to learn the intricacies of Colombian gastronomy, taking a cooking class at Lunático is a can’t-miss opportunity. You’ll not only walk away knowing how to make a classic Cartagena dish like ceviche or “Pasta Cartagena,” but you’ll have also learned a great deal about the history of the food.

Explore Cartagena’s beating heart, Mercado Bazurto

If Anthony Bourdain can’t leave Cartagena without visiting the Bazurto Market, neither can you. The market is the beating heart of Cartagena, and is arterial for all Cartagenans. You’ll want to take a tour of the market, as it is massive and easy to get lost in—plus, a guide will be able to facilitate conversations and give the history of the market. Both Hart and Angel recommend taking the tour through Cartagena Connections, which also offers a can’t-miss street food tour.

An Afro-Colombian market vendor sells fresh fruits and vegetables in the Bazurto open-air market on December 12, 2017 in Cartagena, Colombia. An Afro-Colombian market vendor sells fresh fruits and vegetables in the Bazurto open-air market on December 12, 2017 in Cartagena, Colombia.
Jan Sochor/Getty Images

Take in the incredible murals and street art

Cartagena is a walking city, ultimately. Even outside the fortified walls of the Old City, it is incredibly easy to walk to Getsemani and even to Bocagrande, where high rise condominiums and local beaches are. In Old City and Getsemani, you’ll find ample murals and street art. There are tours to take to learn more about the art and the artists—but you can also just take the art in as you head to local shops and go to dinner.

Go shopping in Old City

If you’re into fashion, or simply want some better souvenirs than the typical assortment of magnets and shot glasses, carve out an afternoon to go shopping in the Old City. There are a few excellent Colombian brands that are popular internationally with shops in Cartagena—and you can find items for a third of the price they sell for in the US. Think handmade beaded dresses, bikinis, fine jewelry, as well as artisan work. The can’t miss stores are Artesanias de Colombia, Silvia Tcherassi, Ábaco Libros y Café, Agua by Agua Bendita, and St. Dom.

Visit Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s house

Maybe you’ve read 100 Years of Solitude, maybe you’ve heard about the Netflix adaptation. However you’re familiar with Colombia’s most famous author, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, you won’t want to miss an opportunity to see his home in Cartagena. It is not currently open to the public, but you can take a tour of the city related to his work, or just walk past its decorated exterior into one of your morning walks, as it is located within the walls of the Old City.

Get drinks at El Barón

Get one of the best cocktails in the world at El Barón. “The reason that I decided to stay in this city and do what I do is El Barón,” Hart says. The bar has landed on the World’s 50 Best list, and is home to inventive cocktails using high-end local ingredients. It is a tiny space, and also offers Cuban and Colombian cigars. Not only will you have one of the best drinks of your life, but you’ll be paying a fair price for it and drinking it out of sustainably made glassware.

Take a mud bath in a volcano

This is a truly tourist-y activity, but something I am so glad I did. Book a tour and head to El Totumo, a mud volcano you can climb in. Bring cash, as you will be tipping everyone at the site of this experience, which includes taking a wooden stairway up the volcano, climbing a ladder into a slopping mud pit, climbing back down, and then rinsing off in the river that flows past it. It’s weird and fun, and also includes a bus ride that will let you see the natural landscape of the surrounding area of Colombia. Some tour options include a lunch of fried fish on the beach afterwards—which is a must when visiting Cartagena whether you get in the mud volcano or not.

The patio area of El Barón at night.The patio area of El Barón at night.
Courtesy of El Barón

Where to eat and drink in Cartagena

Breakfast: Breakfast is just as great of a culinary experience in Cartagena as lunch or dinner. First, there’s Nia, a bakery with an all-day breakfast menu and a commitment to local ingredients, centering Colombia’s wide variety of fruits in their menu. Cafe San Antonio, in the lobby of Casa Jaguar, has eggs benedict and arepas, and is right in Getsemani. For traditional Colombian breakfast, head to Narcobollo. And for a truly excellent cup of Colombian coffee, head to Epoca Cafe, a Colombian coffee roaster that’s also serving up brunch and traditional plates.

Lunch: Lunch in Cartagena is no less of an important meal than dinner, and Hart says it is the perfect time to get into the most renowned restaurant in Cartagena, Celele. Led by chef Jaime Rodriguez, it is one of the best restaurants in Latin America, and it is worth visiting Colombia just to eat here—which means getting a dinner reservation can be pretty hard. Booking for lunch increases your odds. Another essential lunch spot in Cartagena is La Cocina Pepina, which offers up traditional Colombian dishes that are immensely popular with locals—since it doesn’t offer reservations, going here for lunch is a great hack to ensure you get a table. Kiosko El Bony is where to go for simple, delicious traditional Caribbean plates, like tostones, fried fish, and Sancocho.

Dinner: It would be impossible to narrow in on just one place for dinner—Angel’s Carmen was one of the best meals I’ve ever had, but it is far from the only excellent option in Cartagena for Colombian food. Let’s start with the reservation-required hot spots. Rabo de Pez, helmed by chef Alejandro Ramirez Gomez, is one of the newest restaurants in the city and it’s already generating buzz. The contemporary Colombian restaurant has a limited menu focused on extremely elevated seafood dishes. Don Diablo Colombian Steakhouse serves up 100% grass-fed dry-aged Colombian beef, and absolutely no imported meat. For more casual options, El Beso in Getsemani is the spot for great street food and drinks. La Mulata is another can’t-miss seafood place, with unforgettable ceviche options and a perfect relaxed environment filled with locals and tourists.

Dessert: Sweet, cold treats can be an all-day affair in the sticky heat of Cartagena. There’s always time for a fresh smoothie or juice, and you can find great options for these on just about every corner. But if you’re looking for some really fantastic dessert options, some of the best spots start with La Paletteria, a Colombian paleta chain offering what can only be described as gourmet popsicles. Flavor options include everything from fresh mango to caramel. For sweets as beautiful as the space, head to Mila, helmed by chef Mila Vargas. The bakery closes at 8, but if you make it in by then, you’ll find an abundance of Colombian and globally inspired pastries.

A full array of Colombian food including fried fish and salad. A full array of Colombian food including fried fish and salad.
Victoria Holguin for Thrillist

Where to stay

Hotel Casona del Colegio ($$$$)
With a beautiful rooftop pool, marble and gold bar, and an exterior bursting with greenery, this award-winning hotel is where you can go for a luxurious celebration of Colombian art and design. There are plenty of luxury hotels in Old City, but Casona Del Colegio offers the perfect combination of authenticity, service, and design.

Townhouse Cartagena ($$$)
Townhouse has one of the best rooftop bars in Cartagena and a great jazz bar that’s popular with locals in the lobby. Between the two spaces, there’s an abundance of well-appointed hotel rooms featuring designs from local artists. You could just visit Townhouse and still have gotten a great slice of Cartagena. The rooms are spacious, air conditioned, and resplendent with solid wood furniture and balcony views of Old City.

Casa Jaguar Cartagena ($$)
A beautiful property in the popular Getsemani neighborhood, outside of the Old City, Casa Jaguar is the epitome of affordable luxury. With a minimalist take on classic Cartagena design, the small property is instantly soothing. There is an abundance of modern amenities, and the popular on-site cafe, Cafe San Antonio, has plenty of fresh options for breakfast.

Casa Zahri Boutique Hostel ($)
Hostels are abundant in Cartagena. Choosing where to stay truly depends on the vibe you’re seeking out—there are budget hostels that offer everything from raging party centers to holistic, quiet spaces. Casa Zahri is a great option that offers a little bit of both, with opportunities to socialize while still being a place where you can get a good night’s sleep. The hostel features a bright pink exterior, grand murals, and a center courtyard with its own small pool. Plus, the rooms are air conditioned, a crucial even on a budget.

 The classic city of Cartagena is full of colonial Spanish architecture, which lives on today in modern Colombian society/ The classic city of Cartagena is full of colonial Spanish architecture, which lives on today in modern Colombian society/
JTobiasonPhoto/iStock/Getty Images

What to know before you go

The currency

Cartagena uses the Colombian Peso. The exchange rate fluctuates, but on average is about $4,300 pesos to one US dollar. While plenty of places accept cards, cash is king. Plan to withdraw from reputable Colombian bank ATMs.

International adapters you’ll need

Colombia also uses the same power sockets as the US, but you should bring a power adapter just in case, as the standard voltage in Colombia is 110 volts compared to 120 volts in the US.

When to plan your visit

Most people go to Cartagena during the dry season, which is between December and April. These will also be the busiest times to visit—particularly from mid-December to mid-Janaury, when holidays and breaks bring tourists from all over the Americas. If you don’t mind the crowds and high prices, Cartagena has one of the most spectacular New Year’s celebrations in the world.

The wettest months in Cartagena are September and October, so if you plan on plenty of beach days and outdoor activities, this would not be the time to go.

Do’s and don’ts when visiting Cartagena

Don’t plan to be on your worst behavior. Colombia has an outdated and frankly insulting reputation, especially in the US, of being a land of vices. Despite how devastating cocaine has been to the social, political, and cultural fabric of Colombia, tourists continue to seek it out. Sex work is also legal in Colombia, and some have interpreted that to mean that the country is perfect for “sexcations.” This prevalent attitude means that some tourists arrive in Cartagena feeling completely apathetic to how their misbehavior will impact the real people who live there.

Do be prepared to encounter lots of street vendors. The local economy is heavily reliant on tourism, which means you will encounter plenty of people looking to sell tourists their goods and services. Be respectful, get comfortable saying no gracias, and agree to prices before accepting any goods.

Don’t forget the sunscreen, bug spray, and water bottle. Cartagena is basically sitting on the equator. It is a hot, humid, tropical climate year-round, and a trip can easily be derailed by dehydration, sunburn, and bug bites.

Your Cartagena dinner party fact

In 2015, a sunken Spanish galleon was discovered off the coast of Cartagena. The ship contained real treasure like gold and jewels, equating to roughly $20 billion USD. As of 2024, the ownership of the warship is still in dispute, and exploration dives are still ongoing.

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Opheli Garcia Lawler is a Senior Staff Writer at Thrillist. She holds a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Journalism from NYU’s Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute. She’s worked in digital media for eight years, and before working at Thrillist, she wrote for Mic, The Cut, The Fader, Vice, and other publications. Follow her on Twitter @opheligarcia and Instagram @opheligarcia.
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This article has been archived by Slow Travel News for your research. The original version from Thrillist can be found here.

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