How to Get to Mestia in 2025: Complete Tbilisi to Svaneti Transport Guide

An up-to-date, common-sense guide on how to get to Mestia and Ushguli from Tbilisi, Batumi, Kutaisi or Zugdidi in 2025.

Mestia is the main town and hub of Upper Svaneti, the mountainous region in north-western Georgia famed for its hiking trails and UNESCO-listed tower houses.

It’s a must-visit in Georgia in my opinion – but because of its remote location and the time it takes to get there, it can be tricky to find a logical place for Svaneti in your itinerary.

Zugdidi is the closest ‘big city’ to Mestia and is the best place to find transportation to the mountains. There are other options for travelling to Mestia from Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi, either direct or with a transfer.

In late 2024, a beautiful new road from Kutaisi to Ushguli and Mestia via Lentekhi opened, which now means travellers have two options for reaching Svaneti.

In this guide, I will explain exactly how to travel from Tbilisi to Svaneti and from Kutaisi, Batumi or Zugdidi to Mestia by plane, marshrutka, shared transfer or private car.

I’ll also discuss road safety, self-driving, places to stop along the way, and other important things to consider.

Important things to know about transport in Svaneti

• The most-used road to Mestia is the Zugdidi-Jvari-Mestia-Lasdili Road, which starts from Zugdidi and follows the Patara Enguri River to approach Mestia from the west. This road is fully sealed but badly damaged in places due to landslides.
• The alternative Kutaisi-Tskaltubo-Tsageri-Lentekhi-Lasdili Road starts from Kutaisi and approaches Ushguli from the east before joining the other road and continuing to Mestia. This road is newly sealed as of autumn 2024 with only a few gravel patches. The stretch of road between Mestia and Ushguli is also fully sealed now.
• Therefore, you now have two viable options for reaching Mestia: Via Zugdidi, or via Lentekhi. Having recently done both, I think the Lentekhi Road is more scenic and in better condition.
• The Zugdidi Road is open year-round, though it does close for short periods in winter if there is an avalanche risk. There are two ski resorts in Svaneti, so they do try to keep the road clear throughout the winter season. You will need winter tires and preferably a 4WD. The Lentekhi Road is not being cleaned this winter.
• Svaneti is a seasonal travel destination so in terms of shared transport, there are far fewer direct connections outside of summer. Pre-planning is required if you are visiting in spring/autumn/winter.
• Zugdidi has the highest frequency of transfers and is still the best departure point for travelling to Mestia.
• In summer 2025, the Zugdidi Road might close to traffic for repairs. If this happens, marshrutka vans and buses will be rerouted through Lentekhi. Nothing has been announced yet, but I will be continuously updating this guide throughout the year as info becomes avilable.
• The night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi was suspended in 2020 and never resumed. There is no overnight train to Zugdidi any more. There is, however, a night coach bus.
• There are still major roadworks on the main east-west Rikoti Highway. In 2024, several new tunnels and bypasses opened, reducing the travel time between Tbilisi and Kutaisi. This will hopefully make your journey to Mestia that little bit faster – but by the same token, roadworks could cause delays.

Mestia travel times & distances by road

• Zugdidi to Mestia → 135 km (84 miles); minimum 4 hours
• Kutaisi to Mestia via Zugdidi → 220 km (137 miles); minimum 6 hours
• Batumi to Mestia via Zugdidi → 260 km (162 miles); minimum 6.5 hours
• Tbilisi to Mestia via Zugdidi → 450 km (280 miles); minimum 8 hours

Note: These distances and times all correspond to the conventional road through Zugdidi. In case of bad weather or traffic, add anywhere from 10-30%. Travel time from Kutaisi to Mestia via the new Lentekhi Road is slightly shorter, approx. 5.5 hours.

Should you drive your own car to Svaneti?

If you are a confident driver, then I can absolutely recommend driving yourself to Svaneti. I did a big road trip around Svaneti (starting from Zugdidi and ending in Lower Svaneti/Kutaisi) this past autumn, and it was one of my most memorable travel experiences in Georgia to date.

See our full Svaneti Road Trip Itinerary – including plenty of cool road stops.

There are several things to keep in mind if you plan to self-drive.

The roads in Svaneti are quite windy and can be steep and narrow in places. Parts of the Zugdidi Road are reduced to one lane, while parts of the Lentekhi Road are unpaved gravel. The key here is to be patient and extremely cautious.

I recommend hitting the road as early as possible to avoid traffic. Never drive these roads at night. Be flexible – if there is heavy rain or snow, conditions could be compromised.

Contact the Geo Road hotline on +995 322 31 30 76 to double-check conditions before you depart. You can also ask your guesthouse in Mestia/Ushguli for advice.

Find more general tips for driving in Georgia here.

If you plan to take a rental car up to Svaneti, be sure to check the terms and conditions. Many companies still prohibit driving on the Mestia-Ushguli Road and the Lentekhi Road (unfortunately they have not updated their T&Cs yet).

How to get from Zugdidi to Mestia

Whether you are self-driving or using shared transport, you are more than likely going to find yourself having to transit through Zugdidi to reach Mestia. In low and shoulder season when there are no direct marshrutka vans from Tbilisi/Kutaisi/Batumi, you must change vans in Zugdidi.

Because of the long distance and tiring nature of the trip, it’s a very good idea to break up your journey by spending a night in Zugdidi. It’s a great little city with a few notable landmarks (including the Dadiani Palace and Botanical Garden) and a terrific regional food scene.

Consult my Zugdidi City Guide for more tips.

There are two options available:

• Direct marshrutka – 30-40 GEL per person; 4-5 hours
• Shared taxi – approx. 45-50 GEL per person; 3.5-4 hours

Marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia

In previous years, marshrutka vans departed Zugdidi in the early morning from outside the train station. Now that the night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi has been cancelled (more in the next section), vans tend to depart in the mid-morning instead (between 10am and midday), plus again in the afternoon (at around 3pm) when the day train from Tbilisi pulls in.

In the morning, drivers depart from the small bus stand near Zugdidi market – located here. To get there from the centre, pass by the main market, cross the river, and take the first right along the riverside. You will see a sign saying ‘Mestia’ and a bunch of idling vans. There is a public toilet nearby, and food/water is available to purchase from the market.

Last time I was in Zugdidi, there were two vans waiting to collect passengers at this spot at 7.30am. The drivers informed me that they were scheduled to depart at 10am. The fare that day was 35 GEL. The price may go up to 40 GEL (or down to 30 GEL) depending on the driver and the season.

Here is a picture of the vans waiting in the carpark:

In the afternoon, drivers wait at a different spot near the railway station in order to meet disembarking train passengers. If you are arriving in Zugdidi on the train, alight and cross the tracks then head left, walking all the way to the end of the platform. Go down the few steps to the street, and you should see at least one van waiting there.

Here is a picture of a Mestia van waiting for train passengers outside the railway station:

Drivers will be there when the train is arriving, from 2pm/3pm onwards (depending on the season). But the schedule for the vans is not hard and fast, and drivers might hang around until they are satisfied with the number of passengers on board. Therefore, you should be prepared to wait.

These vans run consistently between April and December. In deep winter, when there is snow and ice on the road (roughly January to March), drivers might switch to a Delica van OR there might be no shared transfer at all.

I recommend arriving at the meeting spot as early as possible in order to get a seat. It might also be an option to have your guesthouse call the driver the day before to save you a spot.

Vans make at least one rest stop on the way to Mestia, usually at the Kubdari House Restaurant near Enguri Dam. Once in Mestia, all vans terminate on the main Seti Square – located here.

How to get from Tbilisi to Svaneti

Tbilisi to Mestia is a long and gruelling journey by road. In spring and summer 2024, several new bypasses opened on the Rikoti Highway, reducing travel time between Tbilisi and Kutaisi – but due to traffic and ongoing roadworks, you can’t always count on the journey being faster.

I don’t recommend trying to cover the whole distance in one day. If possible, break it up into stages by stopping over in either Zugdidi, Kutaisi or Martvili (see more suggestions later in the next section). A popular option is to take the train or a coach bus to Zugdidi first then continue on the following day.

If you’re short on time and you need to travel directly to Svaneti, then I highly recommend choosing an experienced private driver rather than taking a marshrutka. Apart from being unsafe for such a long and challenging drive, the vans are quite uncomfortable and luggage space is limited.

In summer 2024, a new coach bus service launched. These are big buses (not minivans) that are more spacious and a touch more comfortable. They run from Tbilisi to Mestia twice per week and in the reverse direction three times per week (details below).

Finally, you might be able to fly to Mestia from Natakhtari Airport outside Tbilisi. This is by far the fastest option, but it has its pitfalls.

There are five options available:

• Direct marshrutka – 50 GEL; 8-9 hours
• Direct coach bus – 50 GEL; 10 hours
• Train + marshrutka/taxi via Zugdidi – approx. 70 GEL; total 10 hours
• Bus + marshrutka/taxi via Zugdidi – approx. 90 GEL; total 10 hours
• Private transfer – 550 GEL; 8 hours
• Flight – approx. 90 GEL; >1 hour

Direct marshrutka from Tbilisi to Mestia

Note: On June 1, 2025, new regulations that prohibit minivans from transporting passengers on journeys of more than 150 kilometres (93 miles) are set to come into effect. Essentially, long-distance marshrutka vans as we know them will be banned and replaced with buses. I will continue to update this guide as more information becomes available.

Marshrutka vans depart for Mestia from various points around Tbilisi, including from the car park outside Central Railway Station (Station Square). There is a sign that says ‘Mestia – 7am’ right in front of the lower entrance to the building.

Note that the schedule is flexible and outside of summer, this van might not be running at all.

For information, you can contact the driver, Saba, on +995 599 24 35 27.

The morning van from Samgori might be more reliable. This van is also scheduled to depart at 7am but it goes from Navtlughi Intercity Bus Terminal near the Samgori Metro – see the location here on Google Maps.

The bus area is a bit tricky to find. First, exit the Samgori Metro Station in the direction of Ketevan Dedofali Avenue. You should see this avtosadguri ‘bus station’ sign pointing the way:

The fare to Mestia is 50 GEL and travel time averages 8-9 hours, including several rest stops along the way.

Make sure you arrive early to secure a seat. You can reach the English-speaking driver on +995 595 700 892 or via his Facebook Page.

Night bus / marshrutka via Zugdidi

Rail is definitely the best way to travel to Zugdidi, but if you prefer to go by road, you have the option to take an overnight coach bus or a marshrutka van instead.

OmniBus operates an overnight coach bus from Ortachala Station in Tbilisi to Zugdidi, leaving at midnight and arriving at 6am. The fare is 30 GEL and tickets can be reserved online via the website or TKT.GE.

I do not usually recommend travelling by road at night, but I have travelled with this company before and in my experience, the driver was quite good. The decision is yours.

If you have room in your itinerary to spend a night in Zugdidi and continue on to Mestia the next morning, OmniBus also has a midday coach from Tbilisi that arrives in Mestia at 6pm.

Alternatively, marshrutka vans to Zugdidi depart from Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi throughout the day, roughly between 8am and 7pm. The fare is around 35 GEL, and travel time is 5-6 hours. Never travel by marshrutka van after dark.

In the morning, it might be possible to find a shared taxi to Zugdidi from Didube station in Tbilisi. Travel time will be slightly shorter, and it should cost around 70 GEL per seat.

When you arrive in Zugdidi, continue to Mestia using one of the options described above.

Private transfer from Tbilisi to Mestia

Private transfer is the easiest (and safest) option if you want to go directly to Mestia from Tbilisi by road. GoTrip.ge is my preferred service for transfers – drivers and cars are vetted for safety, it is a 24/7, flexible door-to-door service, and best of all you can make as many stops as you want along the way.

A direct transfer booked through GoTrip starts from 550 GEL per car. If you have four people, it does work out to be quite affordable. Travel time is around 8 hours if you don’t stop. When you book online, the price is locked in and won’t change.

Alternatively, you can build a day trip itinerary and do some sightseeing along the way. For example this itinerary I created with stops in Zugdidi and Enguri costs about the same as a direct transfer.

→ Book a private transfer online via GoTrip

Flights from Tbilisi to Svaneti (Mestia Airport)

Flights from Tbilisi to Mestia are available with Vanilla Sky, a small Georgian airline that operates various domestic routes including to Batumi and Racha. Prop planes to Mestia Airport run throughout the year with a reduced schedule in winter.

Vanilla Sky is the only operator on the market and is notorious for two reasons: Firstly, their online booking system is a nightmare and it can be difficult to find and purchase tickets. In summer, tickets sell out extremely quickly.

Secondly, flights often get cancelled at short notice. If you do decide to fly, always have a backup plan in case things go wrong on the day.

Prices start from 90 GEL for an adult, and travel time is under an hour. Schedules and ticket announcements are normally made on the Vanilla Sky Facebook page. Note that planes take off from Natakhtari Airfield, 30 minutes north of Tbilisi near Mtskheta. Vanilla Sky offers a free shuttle from the city centre.

Mestia is set to receive a new airport terminal building in the near future. Hopefully more flights will be introduced at the same time.

How to get from Kutaisi to Mestia

Kutaisi is also a convenient departure point for Svaneti as the distance by road is shorter and there are more budget-friendly transport options.

At the moment, all shared transport to Mestia still goes via Zugdidi. There is no direct transport to Ushguli/Mestia via the newly sealed Lentekhi Road just yet.

There are three options available:

• Direct marshrutka or marshrutka via Zugdidi – 40-50 GEL; 6-6.5 hours
• Shared transfer with Budget Georgia – 80 GEL; 6 hours
• Private transfer – approx. 350 GEL; 5.5 hours

Additionally there is at least one flight per week from Kutaisi to Mestia with Vanilla Sky.

Marshrutka from Kutaisi to Mestia

According to the timetable, there is one direct marshrutka van to Mestia departing every morning between 8am and 10am from Kutaisi’s Central Bus Station – located here. I recommend arriving at 8am in summer to secure at seat. Officially the fare is 40 GEL (but it might be higher in shoulder season when there are fewer passengers), and travel time is 6-6.5 hours.

Arrive at the station early to secure a place. If you want to call ahead, you can contact the driver, Zaza, on +995 599 70 34 33 or +995 599 74 63 60.

This direct van definitely runs in summer, but in the low season, you will likely have to change drivers in Zugdidi. Make sure you communicate with your first driver – make sure you don’t pay twice.

Vans from Kutaisi to Zugdidi depart at least every hour or once full between 7am and 6pm from the same bus stop. The fare is approximately 10 GEL, and travel time is 2.5-3 hours.

Try to depart Kutaisi as early as possible. When you arrive in Zugdidi, your first driver will help you find a van to Mestia. Usually the driver will call ahead and tee-up the next leg of the journey for you.

Shared transfer with Budget Georgia

My preferred tour company in Kutaisi, Budget Georgia, runs affordable group transfers to Mestia throughout the year. This option is more reliable than a marshrutka van and a lot more comfortable.

Transfers are available every day between May and October and on Friday only from November to April. The price is 80 GEL per person including hotel pick up. The journey time averages 6 hours with a longer break for lunch.

If you’re flying in, there’s also an option to book a transfer from Kutaisi Airport to Mestia for the same price.

→ Book a shared transfer online via Viator

Private transfer from Kutaisi to Mestia

If you prefer a private car, a direct transfer booked through GoTrip starts from 400 GEL per car. Travel time is around 5.5 hours with no stops, or you can build a day trip itinerary and do some sightseeing along the way.

→ Book a private transfer online via GoTrip

How to get from Batumi to Mestia

Travel time to Mestia from Batumi is much the same as from Kutaisi, slightly longer if you’re travelling by marshrutka. Like with Kutaisi, there are more transport options from Batumi, making it a good departure point for Svaneti. This is the route I took on my first trip to Georgia way back in 2017!

There are three options available:

• Marshrutka via Zugdidi – approx. 65 GEL; 6.5-7 hours
• Shared transfer with Budget Georgia – 80 GEL; 6.5 hours
• Private transfer – approx. 450 GEL; 5.5 hours

Marshrutka to Mestia from Batumi

There might be an early morning direct van to Batumi from Mestia, but the more convenient option is to change vans in Zugdidi.

Even if a van has ‘Mestia’ written on its dashboard, it might still drop you off in Zugdidi – this happened to me on my first trip. The first driver will always liaise with drivers in Zugdidi to make sure you get on the right van to Mestia.

Vans to Zugdidi/Mestia leave from the Intercity Bus Station in Batumi – located here – starting from around 9/10am. The fare to Zugdidi is 18-25 GEL depending on the time of year, and travel time to Zugdidi is 2.5-3 hours.

Shared transfer with Budget Georgia

Budget Georgia also operates transfers from Batumi and Batumi Airport to Mestia. Cars are available every day in summer (May-October) and on Fridays only in winter.

The cost is 80 GEL per person including hotel pick up. Travel time is 6.5 hours, including a break for lunch.

→ Book a shared transfer online via Viator

How to travel from Mestia to Ushguli

Ushguli is a must-visit in Svaneti, if only to visit the iconic stone defensive towers. This community of alpine villages is located east of Mestia, around 1.5 hours’ drive via a fully sealed, impeccably scenic mountain road.

As of 2025, it is perfectly OK to drive your own car to Ushguli. (Remember that some rental companies still forbid it, so you will need to check the fine print.)

If you don’t have a car, Delica taxis and shared minivans are available in abundance in the centre of Mestia. The easiest (and most affordable) option is to ask your guesthouse in Mestia to organise a shared transfer for you. This also helps prevent any miscommunication at the ‘bus station’ (actually a collection of independent sellers with separate offices).

A return trip (Mestia-Ushguli-Mestia on the same day) should cost around 40-60 GEL per person depending on the season and demand. This includes 3-4 hours in Ushguli, where the driver will wait for you while you look around.

If you prefer a private transfer (highly recommended if you want to do some sightseeing in the villages along the way and see more of Ushguli than most day trippers do), then I can recommend two excellent driver-guides whom I have travelled with myself. Feel free to email me for their details.

If you do not plan to return to Mestia on the same day, you will need to book a separate transfer back – and you will have to pay twice. See below.

How to travel from Ushguli to Mestia

If you’re doing the Mestia-Ushguli hike or you want to stay overnight in Ushguli (highly recommended – the sunrise over Georgia’s highest peak, Shkhara is something else), then you will need to find a one-way ticket back to Mestia. Do not buy your ticket in advance from the bus station in Mestia – strange things sometimes happen, and many travellers unfortunately get taken advantage of.

Instead, when you’re ready to leave Ushguli, go to the main bridge (located here) and wait for a taxi or van to stop. This is where locals wait for transport, so it shouldn’t take too long. The price for a one-way trip is the same as a return trip: 40-60 GEL depending on the driver and the season.

Again, it’s a very good idea to ask your guesthouse in Ushguli to help coordinate this for you.

A huge thank-you to traveller Michaela for this intel!

The return trip: Departing from Mestia

Mestia’s informal bus station is right in the city centre – located here and in the buildings opposite. Vans bound for Zugdidi and potentially for Batumi, Kutaisi and/or Tbilisi all depart in the morning hours.

The Tbilisi marshrutka departs daily at 8am along with the new coach buses (remember the latter service operates on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays only). In summer high season, direct vans to Batumi and Kutaisi also depart at 8am.

Sometimes there is another van to Zugdidi at 12 midday. But there may or may not be additional afternoon services – it all depends on demand.

Note that there are at least 4-5 other ‘bus stands’ in the same area, all selling tickets for the same destinations but sometimes for different prices. Many travellers face issues when trying to pre-purchase tickets in advance – the van never arrives, or there’s not enough seats, or they have to change in Zugdidi unexpectedly.

The best strategy is to check times the day before, then arrive early (40-60 minutes early) to secure your seat. If possible, ask your guesthouse in Mestia to call the driver/bus station the day before you plan to travel. Tickets do sell out in peak summer and you don’t want to get stranded.

Fares and travel times back down the mountain are approximately the same. Again, the most convenient option is to first travel to Zugdidi and then organise your onward transport from there.

For a hassle-free alternative that eliminates having to deal with shady bus stops, book a shared transfer with Budget Georgia. This service is available for Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Kutaisi Airport, and Batumi. During summer, they depart from Mestia in the afternoon.

Book your return transfer from Mestia direct with Budget Georgia and save 10% when you mention Wander-Lush. Email them first to get the discounted payment link.

If you want to go private or continue to another destination in Georgia, I highly recommend organising a car through GoTrip.

Where to stop on the way to/from Svaneti

The regions between Kutaisi and the Black Sea Coast are my favourite parts of Georgia. There is SO MUCH to see in Western Georgia – if you have the time.

Here are a couple of easy stopovers between Zugdidi and Mestia. For more ideas, see my guides to Guria Region and The Monument Route (the latter will be published soon).

‘Stalin Waterfall’

Did you know that Stalin once stopped at a small waterfall on his way from Zugdidi to Mestia to enjoy a picnic lunch and a refreshing swim? Just kidding. This waterfall (like many other ‘infamous Stalin sites’ in Georgia) has no connection to the dictator – but you will find a Stalin bust sitting on a concrete platform here amongst the cafe tables. Climb up the stairs behind Kubdari House to find it.

Enguri Dam

The world’s second-highest concrete arch dam, Enguri is located on the road between Zugdidi and Mestia. The hydro project supplies energy to both Georgia and Abkhazia.

Enguri has always been a popular place to break the journey to Mestia. Tours of the dam launched in 2021, and it is now a ticketed site. If you want to take a 30-minute boat trip on the dam, contact David at Enguri Boat Tour.

Sisa Tura Ethno Village

Sisa Tura is a family run village that aims to give tourists a taste of Mingrelian culture and rural life. The three-acre complex has a collection of wooden oda houses, beautiful nature, and a kitchen that offers traditional meals.

Sisa Tura is open from late spring through to autumn. Advance bookings are essential – contact Marika on Facebook to organise your visit.

Zugdidi

As mentioned, Zugdidi is a great small city with a few things to see and do, and some truly wonderful Mingrelian restaurants (Diaroni is my favourite). If you have time, I highly recommend spending a night here on the way to Svaneti.

Casa de Khasia is a cosy guesthouse with wonderful hosts. Find more things to do in and around Zugdidi in this guide.

Martvili

Also in Samegrelo region at the foot of the mountains, Martvili is a great place for hiking, waterfalls and canyons. As well as the popular Martvili Canyon, there are plenty of alternative canyons and rivers to explore. Martvili Monastery is famous all over Georgia for its frescoes and very much worth a visit.

Martvili is a great place to relax in nature on the way up or down from Mestia. I recommend staying at Karma Hostel.

Where to stay in Mestia

Budget-friendly guesthouse: Manoni’s Guesthouse is one of the longest-running in Mestia, and the family really know how to treat their guests. Rooms are very comfortable, especially the private doubles with ensuite. Meals are served in a cosy dining room. They can organise anything and everything on your behalf, including shared vans to Ushguli. I stayed here in 2017.

Mid-range hotel: Family Hotel Kala has comfy rooms and a buffet breakfast. When we stayed here last year, we found the staff were very helpful. The location on the edge of Mestia is convenient if you are driving. Onsite parking is available.

Boutique hotel: Hotel Lahili is a 5-minute walk from the Ethnography Museum and cable car, with modern and stylish rooms, comfortable common spaces and a generous breakfast. We recently stayed here and loved it.

Cabin: If you’re looking for something more secluded, Bude Mestia Cottages offer gorgeous self-contained A-frame cabins set in the forest 3km from the main square.

Where to stay in Zugdidi

Guesthouse: Casa de Khasia is a gorgeous boutique guesthouse that’s run by a local couple who are extremely active in advancing the rights of IDPs from Abkhazia and promoting Zugdidi as a tourist destination. Rooms are large and beautifully furnished, and the outdoor common spaces are delightful.