A Beginner’s Guide to Skiing in Georgia: Gudauri vs Bakuriani vs Mestia Compared

A beginner’s guide to skiing in Georgia, including general tips plus a detailed comparison of Georgia’s top three ski resorts: Gudauri versus Bakuriani versus Mestia.

Georgia might not be the first place that comes to mind for a skiing holiday. But the slopes here certainly have the potential to rival the best-known resorts in Europe.

Whilst infrastructure is still developing, and accessing the mountains in wintertime can be a challenge, the upside is that Georgia’s winter resorts are almost always completely free of crowds. Snowfall is fairly consistent year to year, and the ski season typically runs from early December through to the middle of April.

The scenery at Georgia’s ski resorts is diverse and picturesque, from the mighty peaks of the Greater Caucasus in Mestia (above left) to the coniferous forests in the Trialeti Range in Bakuriani (above right). Runs cater to all levels, from beginner to advanced, and prices are a fraction of what you would pay elsewhere. A season lift pass for all of Georgia’s four MTA resorts costs just 650 GEL (230 USD).

I have skied at three of Georgia’s four main resorts: Gudauri, Bakuriani, and Mestia. In this guide, I will compare the trio against a range of criteria to help you decide which one is most suitable for you. I will also offer my general insights into skiing in Georgia – including etiquette and quirks – and touch on alternative places for adventurous and backcountry skiing.

You might also be interested in these in-depth guides:

Basic things to know about skiing in Georgia

Before I dive in, there are a few basic things to understand about Georgia’s ski resorts. Here are a few pieces of advice I have picked up from my various ski trips.

• The ski season in Georgia normally runs from the middle of December until the middle of April, with the more reliable snowfall in February/early March. Exact dates are different for each resort – see below.
• Lift passes are extremely affordable, with only a minor price difference between the major resorts. Rechargeable multicards are valid at all four government-run MTA resorts. Passes are purchased at onsite ticket booths.
• Gear hire is also extremely affordable, from 40-60 GEL/day for skis, boots and poles or a snowboard. Every resort has multiple hire shops.
• English-speaking ski instructors are available in Gudauri and Bakuriani, but less common in Mestia and Goderdzi.
• Lift opening hours are later than what you might be used to, with most lifts starting up at 10am and finishing by 4pm. Night skiing is available at some resorts but is normally limited to weekends.
• Delays and short electricity outages can be common if there is bad weather.
• Snow cams are now installed at every MTA resort. See the live feeds on the MTA website.
• Crowds are sparse at most resorts throughout the season, with the exception of the New Year/school holiday period in January. Rarely will you ever have to queue to use the lifts.
• Ski culture is very laidback overall, and there is nothing specific to know in terms of etiquette. There are police patrols and mountain rescue teams at every MTA resort. Always wear a helmet, take out a travel insurance policy, and be wary of other people on the slopes.

1. Gudauri Ski Resort: Best option for skiing near Tbilisi

Located 120 kilometres or 2 hours by car from Tbilisi, Gudauri is the most popular ski resort in Georgia among both locals and tourists alike. The season here typically runs from the final week of December until the second or third week of April.

This resort was established in the 1980s, and is roughly divided into two parts: Old Gudauri and New Gudauri. Between them, 10 chairlifts, 7 platter lifts and a set of gondolas service 80 kilometres of groomed runs. Seventeen of the 29 runs in Gudauri are blue, but this resort does cater to all levels. This is the easiest place to find a ski instructor, making it a good option for beginners. I re-learned to ski on the bunny runs here in 2023!

At an elevation of 2,200 metres, Gudauri is entirely above the treeline and boasts epic views of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. I would describe the New Gudauri vibe as ‘young and fun’ (the apres-ski culture here is strong), while Old Gudauri is a little bit more subdued and family-friendly. The crowd is very international and generally up-beat, but in past years there have been tensions between local and foreign ski instructors.

The layout of the resort leaves a lot to be desired – car parking is scarce, and a lack of shared transport makes it tricky to get to and from the lifts. Because Gudauri is a purpose-built resort, it lacks character and soul, and there are limited things to do off the slopes.

Location & accessibility

Gudauri’s big advantage is that it is the closest ski resort to Tbilisi. Still, transport to and from the capital is limited to marshrutka minivans, shared taxis and private transfers. There are no coach buses to Gudauri from Tbilisi, and no direct transfer options from Tbilisi Airport. (You can, however, find a direct bus from Kutaisi Airport to Gudauri.)

The most efficient and cost-effective way to get to Gudauri is by booking a private car through GoTrip.

→ For more options, see this guide: How to get to Gudauri from Tbilisi

Gudauri is located on the Military Highway, the only road connection between Georgia and Russia. Despite being a vital trade road, it is prone to closures in winter, especially after Gudauri at the Jvari Pass. Access to the resort could be blocked for periods of several hours to several days if there is a heavy snowstorm.

Ski runs & infrastructure

Gudauri is known for its wide runs and off-piste opportunities. The two highest points of the resort, Mount Sadzele and Mount Kudebi, have black and red runs that start from above 3,000 metres. In New Gudauri, there is a snow park for beginners.

The lifts here are all very modern, and there are ample places to hire gear (waterproof clothes as well as skis and snowboards). Ski schools are plentiful, with outfits such as Vagabond Adventures offering English-speaking instructors.

Accommodation in Gudauri

New Gudauri consists mostly of apartment blocks, thus self-contained apartments (mainly studios) are the most popular option here. There are a handful of boutique hotels such as (Ati Ambavi) plus a few ski-in resorts in Old Gudauri (such as Gudauri Lodge) plus a hostel or two.

→ For suggestions, see this guide: Where to Stay in Gudauri

Since there is no public transport system within Gudauri, it is essential to stay close to one of the bottom lifts. It is not safe to walk on the Military Highway. Taxis are available, but the Bolt app doesn’t always work and drivers tend to charge exorbitant prices. Some hotels have a shuttle service, but you might find the schedule is quite limiting.

Restaurants, shops & apres-ski

Gudauri has a fairly good range of Georgian and international restaurants, as well as the most developed apres-ski culture of the bunch. New Gudauri is particularly popular for apres-ski, with venues such as Drunk Cherry and Black Dog Bar filling up every evening.

Because Gudauri is just a resort, grocery shops, pharmacies, bakeries and other services are far more limited here. You will also find that prices are higher compared to Tbilisi.

Non-ski activities

The journey to Gudauri along the Military Highway is a highlight in and of itself. Top winter attractions such as Sabaduri Forest, Ananuri Fortress and the Friendship Monument can all be visited en route from Tbilisi. Be sure to book a private transfer if you want to stop along the way.

Within the resort, Gudauri has a healthy range of other ‘snow-based’ activities, but there are limited things to do off the slopes. Gudauri lacks the character and history of Mestia and Bakuriani, which are both small towns.

Other things to do in Gudauri include:

→ Find a full list here: Non-Skiing Things to Do in Gudauri

Prices in Gudauri

Gudauri is the most expensive ski resort in our experience. A day pass for the lifts cost 70 GEL (more than in Bakuriani or Mestia), accommodation is priced at a premium, and food prices are steeper here too (especially in New Gudauri). If you have to rely on taxis to get around, this cost will add up quickly.

The cost of ski/snowboard rental is virtually the same across all of Georgia’s resorts (50 GEL for one day).

2. Bakuriani Ski Resort (Didveli & Kokhta-Mitarbi): Best option for families

Sitting in the southern part of Georgia in the Trialeti Mountains (Lesser Caucasus), Bakuriani’s central location makes it easy to reach from both Tbilisi (180 kilometres) or Kutaisi (150 kilometres) in under 4 hours by car. Traditionally, Bakuriani is the first resort to open (this season, the lifts started running in the first week of December), but it is also one of the first to close by the third or fourth week of March.

This is the country’s oldest ski resort – the first tracks were established in 1932 as a training ground for USSR winter olympians. There are three separate ski areas: Didveli, Kokhta and Mitarbi. In addition to MTA’s 11 lifts and 26 groomed runs, there are two privately owned ski parks, Crystal and 25 Ski Park.

Bakuriani is known for its ski schools and kids’ camps. Compared to Gudauri, the crowd here leans more towards Georgian families. The Didveli/Crystal/25 area does feel a bit like a theme park or fun fair, and although it is more spread-out and better planned generally, it can get congested on weekends and holidays. Kokta and Mitarbi are further from town and have more advanced ski runs, thus the vibe here is closer to that in Gudauri.

Bakuriani has a lower elevation (1,700 metres) and is enveloped in coniferous forests, which gives the resort a very beautiful aesthetic. Those looking for stunning winter scenery will find their fill here. This resort definitely has the best range of non-skiing activities for both adults and kids, and because Bakuriani is a town, it has more conveniences.

Location & accessibility

The town of Borjomi is the gateway to Bakuriani, with frequent minivan connections to the resort (travel time is less than an hour). Getting to Borjomi from Tbilisi or Kutaisi is quite straightforward, with minivans, trains and private transfers available.

→ For a full breakdown, see this guide: How to get to Bakuriani

Of the three resorts, Bakuriani definitely has the best (i.e. gentlest and least terrifying) road. If you are road tripping in Georgia and want to include a ski resort in your itinerary, this would be my top pick. Paid and free street parking are both readily available.

Ski runs & infrastructure

All five ski areas in Bakuriani are heavily forested, so you will find both wide runs fringed by forests, and challenging courses that weave through the trees.

The infrastructure in Didveli is a bit more dated compared to Gudauri, but Kokhta-Mitarbi – which was redeveloped in 2015 – has modern facilities. As with Gudauri, there are ample places to hire gear. Ski schools and instructors are fewer, but they are available.

One major advantage to Bakuriani is its city bus system. Buses run throughout the day between Didveli and Kokhta via Bakuriani town, costing 1 GEL per person. Taxis are also widely available, and the Bolt app works well.

Accommodation in Bakuriani

Bakuriani has dozens of hotels at different price points, plus all-in-one ski resorts such as Crystal. In the town, there are plenty of budget-friendly guesthouses. Rooms Hotel Kokhta (pictured below) is the best ski-in option, or if you prefer an apartment, there are plenty to choose from in the new developments around Didveli.

Restaurants, shops & apres-ski

The food in Bakuriani is much better than in Gudauri in my opinion, with restaurants such as Mimino and Chateau Vartsikhe popular among locals. The apres-ski culture is less pronounced though, and there are very few dedicated bars. Rooms Kokhta has a dreamy lounge and is one of the best places to grab a drink or a meal.

There are virtually no on-slope options – none of the midway stations at Didveli or Kokta have restaurants or bars (there is one in Mitarbi though). Cafe Skyline at the top of the Crystal Park gondola is the best cafe with a view.

Bakuriani town has everything you could want or need, from markets to grocery stores and specialty food shops such as Europroduct, to pharmacies and local bakeries. If you have an apartment, self-catering is much easier here.

Non-ski activities

Bakuriani has the best range of non-skiing, snow-based activities of any of the resorts. You could happily visit Bakuriani and have an amazing winter experience without touching a pair of skis. This is not something I would ever recommend for Gudauri.

Other things to do in Bakuriani include:

• Cross-country skiing
• Sledding, snow tubing, ice skating & other kids activities
• Bakuriani Husky Park
• Walking through the snow forests in Amirani’s Park
• Urbexing at Sanatorium Libani

→ Find an extended list here: 12 Things to Do in Bakuriani in Winter

Prices in Bakuriani

There is a slight saving on a day pass for the lifts in Bakuriani compared to Mestia – here, it costs 55 GEL. The bus system makes it much easier to get around the resort without having to pay for taxis, and you can find more affordable accommodations outside of the school holiday period. Grocery prices are on-par with any other town, and because this resort is popular with more discerning Georgian families, I found the food prices here are more realistic compared to Gudauri.

3. Mestia Ski Resort (Hatsvali & Tetnuldi): Best option for scenery & culture

If Gudauri is all about the high mountains and wide pistes, and Bakuriani favours snow forests and runs that weave through the trees, then Mestia has the best of both worlds.

The ski resort in Svaneti Region has two separate slopes: Hatsvali and Tetnuldi. Between them, there are 14 lifts and 37 kilometres of groomed trails. Tree-lined Hatsvali has a range of beginner courses and a very nice plateau area for practicing, while Tetnuldi is higher and better suited to experienced skiers and snowboarders, with ample freeriding opportunities. Tetnuldi is set right in the Greater Caucasus and is the most visually impressive ski resort I have ever seen – not just in Georgia, but anywhere in the world.

The ski season runs here from the end of December until mid to late April. Outside of winter, Mestia is one of Georgia’s most popular tourist destinations – so on top of the great skiing, you have all the off-slope activities too. Most are rooted in Svan culture, from tower houses to museums and cultural events. There are great restaurants, and a small but solid apres-ski scene.

Located 450 kilometres from Tbilisi, Mestia is definitely remote and requires a considerable amount of planning and effort to reach. The trade-off is that it is much quieter than Gudauri or Bakuriani. The lifts are new, but infrastructure overall is less developed. There is a noticeable lack of hire shops and instructors, and like in Gudauri, it is challenging to get to and from the lifts.

Location & accessibility

Travel time to Mestia from Tbilisi by road is a nauseating 10 hours (minimum), so it is preferable to break-up the journey and travel via Kutaisi (230 kilometres) or Zugdidi (140 kilometres) instead.

Shared minivans do operate in winter, but services might be cancelled if there is heavy snow. The safest and most reliable option is to book an experienced driver. I only recommend tackling this road in winter if you are a confident driver. A 4WD is more or less mandatory.

Flights to Mestia are available from both Kutaisi and Natakhtari (near Tbilisi), but tickets are hard to get, and last-minute cancellations are common.

→ For all your options, see this guide: How to get to Mestia

The road to Mestia via Zugdidi is open throughout the winter (unlike the road from Kutaisi to Mestia via Lentekhi and Ushguli, which is closed). Although this road is damaged in sections, personally I find the drive to Mestia is less challenging than the drive to Gudauri because there are far fewer other cars (and no trucks).

Ski runs & infrastructure

Mestia has an excellent mix of ski runs that cater to all levels. The plateau area at Hatsvali with its button lifts and gentle green runs is probably the best place in Georgia to practice skiing. It is difficult to find an instructor in Mestia, though. With a max altitude of 3,168 metres, Tetnuldi is known as the ‘freerider’s paradise’.

There are several ski hire shops in Mestia town, plus one at Tetnuldi. If you are skiing at Hatsvali, you will have to carry everything with you to the bottom lift station (a one-kilometre walk via a slippery, steep road). Transport to and from the lifts is limited to local taxis. The Bolt app does not work here.

Accommodation in Mestia

Mestia has a huge range of accommodations – every second house is a guesthouse. There are a number of nice lodge-style hotels here as well, including Lahili, which is convenient to Hatsvali. Apartments are rarer, but they do exist. There is no hotel at Tetnuldi, so you need to commute from Mestia – a 40-60 minute drive.

Restaurants, shops & apres-ski

Mestia is a year-round town with an excellent selection of food and drink options, grocery stores, pharmacies and banks. Svan cuisine is unique within Georgia and this is the only ski resort that really shines a light on regional cooking.

→ For inspiration, see my Mestia food guide: What & Where to Eat in Mestia (published soon).

The few bars that do exist (KRK, Twin Peaks) all have an intimate, fun atmosphere.

Non-ski activities

While Mestia has fewer on-slope activities (no ice skating, and I did not see a place to rent sleds or tubes), the cultural attractions in town are unrivalled. Even if skiing is your primary reason for visiting, it’s worth spending an extra day in Mestia for the museums.

Other things to do in Mestia include:

• The world-class Ethnography Museum
• House museums & defensive towers
• Cultural festivals such as Lamproba (held in February)
• Samoyed sledding
• Walking the streets of Old Laghami & visiting ancient churches

→ Find an extended list here: Things to Do in Mestia in Winter

Gudauri vs Bakuriani vs Mestia: What is the best ski resort in Georgia?

As you can see, each of Georgia’s three main ski resorts has its pros and cons.

Gudauri has the location advantage and is the easiest resort to get to from Tbilisi. It is more developed in terms of both ski schools and apres-ski culture. But accommodations here can be overpriced, there are fewer amenities, and the area lacks character. For want of a better word, Gudauri doesn’t feel very ‘Georgian’. Depending on your priorities, that could be a deal breaker.

Bakuriani has a far more local feel. As well as better restaurants, this resort is unrivalled in terms of its non-skiing activities. The topography is completely unique, and the snow forests are very beautiful. The road to Bakuriani is the best of the bunch, making it a less risky option for self-driving (or anyone whose Georgia itinerary has little leeway for possible unexpected road closures).

But for me, Mestia wins out. The combination of the high mountains in Tetnuldi and the forests in Hatsvali is unbeatable, both in terms of the variety of ski runs and the overall aesthetics of the place. Mestia has an intimate, friendly vibe, there are far fewer people on the slopes, and having access to Svan cultural activities and cuisine is a huge bonus. It takes more time, energy and money to get to Mestia, but I do think it’s worth it.

Alternative places to ski in Georgia

Goderdzi

Goderdzi is the fourth government-managed MTA resort. I have not included it in the main list because I have not had a chance to visit yet. But I will be skiing here next winter!

Goderdzi is the newest ski resort in Georgia and has just three lifts and 8 kilometres of trails. Its location close to Batumi and the subtropical Black Sea Coast means the climate is very atypical – sometimes Goderdzi is referred to as the ‘Japan of Georgia’ because of its long season and high volume of snow. The landscape sounds similar to Mestia, with a mix of high mountains and coniferous alpine forests.

This resort is the most remote of the bunch. There are only a handful of hotels, and since the road is so bad, access is only by snowcat at certain points during the season.

Bakhmaro

Bakhmaro is a mountain resort in Western Georgia’s Guria Region, between the Black Sea and Kutaisi. There is no formal ski resort here, but there are catskiing and heliskiing opportunities thanks to the folks at the Powder Project, who also operate a lodge in the village.

Having visited Bakhmaro in summer, I can attest to this area’s beauty. The forests and A-frame cottages must look incredible under snow. Like Goderdzi, infrastructure here is limited and access is only by snowcat in peak winter.

Skiing in Georgia FAQ

When is the Georgia ski season?

Georgia’s ski season typically runs from mid December until mid April. Opening dates for the slopes vary from year to year depending on the weather and snowfall.

Resorts might be open as early as the first week of December. Some open earlier than others, for example skiing in Bakuriani is usually available a few weeks before Gudauri.

How much does it cost to go skiing in Georgia?

Day passes for all the above-mentioned resorts average 50-70 GEL for an adult. Children’s passes and family passes are also available. Gear costs around 50 GEL per person per day. Along with accommodation, food and drink plus transport, I would budget approximately 250-350 GEL per person per day.

Gudauri is the most expensive resort in my experience, while Bakuriani and Mestia both have more affordable accommodations and restaurants.

Where to rent or buy ski gear and clothes in Tbilisi?

All resorts give you the option to rent equipment and clothing onsite. If you prefer to buy new ski clothes, do it in Tbilisi.

Hypermarket Xtreme is the best place to find professional equipment and ski clothing sets. Shops around Dinamo Station – including Snowy Mountains at 11 Tsereteli Avenue – sell new ski clothes and accessories at a discounted price.