How to Spend a Perfect Weekend in Cartagena, Colombia

The city of Cartagena — or, more formally, Cartagena de Indias — was founded in 1533 by the Spanish. That’s half a millennium ago, with the name cribbed from the ancient city of Carthage. Of course, the area has roots stretching back much further than that, though even at this more recent starting point of nearly 500 years ago, the history is extensive.

Cartagena’s old city walls from the 1600s and 1700s still contain its original old quarter. That area is where you’ll find the bulk of today’s tourist scene, including walking streets, along with an impressive collection of restaurants, bars and shops. It’s a vibrant, colorful and energetic escape, which is perhaps what happens when you put one of Latin America’s best preserved and oldest remaining colonial cities adjacent to the Caribbean (see also: San Juan, among others).

And yes, Colombia’s northern coast has every bit of the beautiful blue seas and sandy beaches that you’d expect to find in the islands we tend to associate with the Caribbean. If an entire destination can be known among travelers first and foremost for its vibe, Cartagena is probably it.

There’s more to the Colombian destination than that, of course. Beyond its old quarter, Cartagena is now home to a vibrant and modern city. Oh yeah: you should also be prepared to eat very, very well. “Cartagena has more flavors than the rest of Colombia combined,” says Maria Angelica, a chef turned food tour guide who led me through the bustling maze that is Bazurto Market.

The port city has been at the center of international trade for centuries, after all, and during the Spanish reign, served as a key getaway in and out of the region. That means Spanish influence, African and Middle Eastern flavors, and local ingredients all merged onto one plate. Plan to eat all types of arepas, including the famed arepa con huevo; fish tacos; boronia, a mashed side combining plantain and eggplant; whole fried fish; ceviche; hearty sancocho stew and plenty more.

Fear not: you’ll sweat it all out, whether exploring the city, laying out with your toes in the sand, or dancing the night away.

How to Get to Cartagena

Even well-seasoned travelers don’t realize how accessible Colombia is from the United States. The capital city of Bogota is about a six-hour journey from New York, or five from a major hub such as Houston.

Cartagena, meanwhile, is home to Rafael Núñez International Airport, a short drive away from the center of the city. Avianca even runs direct flights from New York to Cartagena for much of the year. That makes a trip to Cartagena about the same length as a flight to Los Angeles, yet you’ll certainly feel as if you’ve landed somewhere much farther removed than that. In lieu of the direct flights, and dependent on your departure point, you’ll otherwise be connecting via Bogota or other Latin American gateways such as Panama City.

Where to Stay in Cartagena

Forget the big box brands. In Cartagena, you want to feel as close as you can to the local scene, and a small boutique with a central location within the old quarter is your best bet. Book a stay at Townhouse Hotel Cartagena, a property that reflects its surroundings with colorful artwork and décor, and an ethos that is almost akin to a well-run bed and breakfast: text your hosts for help with anything from arranging tours, local sightseeing and shopping recommendations, or making dinner reservations, and access your room via locks controlled by digital entry codes as opposed to physical keys.

The hotel boasts an all-day rooftop hangout including two small plunge pools for cooling off, and plenty of lounge seating. It’s a can’t-miss option for an excellent breakfast, it’s your go-to when you’re ready to relax with a drink after a hot day of touring, and it’s also your best bet for a sunset view. On the whole, Townhouse has an irreverent sense of style and playful sense of humor, and every bit of those Cartagena vibes you’re seeking.

In addition to a stay in the city, you may want to consider tacking on an overnight at the beach, too. End your trip with a stay at Blue Apple Beach, a luxury eco-hotel with deep connections to its Green Apple Foundation and a sweeping range of sustainability and community initiatives. The resort is on the Isla de Tierra Bomba, and is reachable via speed boat transfer in half an hour from the city’s pier. It’s also a sister property of Townhouse, making it easy to sync up a stay at both.

Blue Apple’s heart is its beach club, with a pool area flanked by lounge chairs and daybeds adjacent to an open air restaurant and bar. Rooms at the hotel include standalone casitas featuring personal plunge pools and lounging decks with hammocks, bright Caribbean colors, and outdoor showers. The resort hosts an ongoing Secret Garden Supper Club with a guest chef preparing group tasting menu dinners once every few months. It’s a unique culinary experience if it aligns with your travel dates, though the hotel’s fresh fare and Colombian-Caribbean food is already a draw on its own.

Eat, Drink & Play in Cartagena

The best way to see Cartagena is to spend a morning walking around its old quarter. Weave your way around busy streets lined with cafes and restaurants, with historic plazas, churches and other landmarks around every corner. Don’t miss the La Gorda Gertrudis statue from Colombian artist Fernando Botero in Plaza Santo Domingo; the church known as the “fat lady” is in front of dates to Cartagena’s founding by the Spanish, having first been built in 1539.

You don’t need a specific destination in mind though, as the old quarter is easy enough to maneuver over the course of an outing or two. Just be sure to consider an early start in the morning before the heat and humidity turn all the way up.

You’ll end up doing plenty of shopping and browsing in the cool confines of well-air conditioned galleries and boutiques. Consider that knocking off two tourist birds with one stone. Shop for a good cause by purchasing local handicrafts made by the community at Centro Artesano, stock up on local fashion designers at St. Dom and browse contemporary Colombian art NH Galeria. Museums hone in on everything from gold and emeralds to chocolate.

Bazurto is a hectic, sprawling, all-in-one food marketplace, and you’ll want a guide to help sort through it all. Tours that involve stocking up on local produce and then bringing it back with you for a cooking class and a lunch are available via a number of local operators.

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Even if you’re not extending your stay with a visit to somewhere such as Blue Apple Beach, you can also visit for the afternoon, with beach club day passes available. There are plenty of other ways to work some sun and sand into your trip itinerary as well. Picturesque Baru, technically a peninsula that has since been cut off from the mainland via a canal, is home to a number of beach clubs and hotels for day trips and overnights. Sabai is one popular choice, though the entire area is ringed with options.

Plenty of good cafes to be found. You are in Colombia, after all. Epoca Cafe Bar, Nia Bakery, Abaco Libros y Cafe and Libertario Coffee Roasters are a few to explore.

When it comes time for something a bit stronger, your mission starts at Alquímico, one of the best cocktail bars in the Caribbean. With three different levels to explore, your mission may end there, too. Founder Jean Trinh has developed a sustainable ecosystem wherein he sources ingredients from their own farm to use in cocktails as well as the veggie-centric food lineup. Cocktails on the bar’s main level focus on storytelling and the community, while the second level features riffs on classics.

Keep the night going with some salsa dancing at Cafe Havana, or another round of drinks at El Barón. The Members Only lobby bar at Townhouse also offers live jazz shows, DJs and burlesque performances on the weekend. You don’t actually need to be a member, but you do probably want to reserve a spot.

Advance reservations are a safe bet across all of Cartagena’s top restaurants as well. Just about everyone’s recommendations will include Celele and Carmen. Alma, Cande, La Mulata, Lobo de Mar, El Beso and Salon Tropical are also among the top choices in town.

Or just find a busy street cart serving up arepas and cold beer. It’s pretty damn hard to go wrong with that.