The Magic of Spain’s Paradores: Historic Hotels for Your Next Stay in Galicia

Galicia, the land of water

Galicia sits on top of Portugal, in the northwestern tip of Spain. Centuries ago, there was no border here; in fact, Galicia and Portugal share a similar language and an intertwined history best seen in small towns like Tui, which is on the Spanish side bank of the Miño River, facing the Portuguese town of Valença. There are four provinces in Galicia: A Coruña, Lugo, Ourense and Pontevedra.

A land of water, Galicia has thousands of clean, clear rivers, warm hot springs and tributaries that drain seaward into two of its largest rivers, the Sil and Miro. With its 1,650 kilometres of coastline, Galicia is the most important fishing region in Spain and Vigo, with its deep natural harbour, has the largest port in the world, second only to China.

“There is no sea where you don’t find a Galician fishing ship,” says guide Maria Chamadoira Cicerone. The sheer abundance of the Galician seas is mind-boggling. Mussels, oysters and scallops are farmed in the estuaries. Cockles and clams are collected at low tide. I’m fascinated with the idea of eating barnacles, known as ‘percebes’, which Cicerone says are simply boiled or steamed for a few minutes and eaten with your hands.

Galicia is a lush and mystical land. One of my most enduring memories from my Camino walk in 2021 is trekking through its mossy forests and hills. My Camino started in the Galician UNESCO walled city of Lugo, a historic city with intact Roman fortifications dating back to the 3rd century. I remember the oak trees, venerated by the Celtics, who settled here centuries ago. Then and now, it wouldn’t surprise me to see fairies dancing in the morning mist as I walk through the forests.