Discover Palermo Soho: Buenos Aires’ Trendiest Expat Neighborhood

To show you why expats love it here, Sandra and I walked these streets, capturing every detail and tasting every treat, to offer you a preview guide to life in Palermo Soho.

This isn’t just another district; it’s a rhythm, a lifestyle, woven into the very fabric of Buenos Aires. Whether searching for the best steakhouse, the cheapest happy hour drink specials, or shopping for fresh fruits at a local farmers market, every experience reveals a hidden gem.

Palermo Overview

First, understand that Buenos Aires is a massive metropolis boasting a staggering population of 15 million. The metro consists of 15 communes and 46 official neighborhoods.

Palermo is the city’s largest neighborhood (barrio in Spanish) in terms of both size and population. Palermo is so big, that it is further subdivided into unofficial smaller neighborhoods.

Palermo Districts

Why is the neighborhood called Soho?

Palermo Soho wasn’t always this upscale. The area started off as a part of a working-class area Palermo Viejo (translated to Old Palermo in Spanish). In the late 1990s, designers and artists attracted to the neighborhood’s cheap old homes and abandoned warehouses and factories moved their art studios and boutique shops into the area

Fast-forward a decade of gentrification, and by the early 2000s, the transformed neighborhood had become the new trendy fashion area of Buenos Aires. With the designer outlets and galleries came an increased concentration of upscale restaurants, chic cafes, and nightlife.

Locals began informally referring to the area as “Soho” due to its creative energy and fashion vibe, which resembled the famous Soho neighborhood of New York City. The moniker stuck, and Palermo Soho is now the most common way to refer to the neighborhood.

Why Choose Palermo Soho?

Walking through the streets of Palermo Soho always fills me with excitement and inspiration. This hip, creative hub of Buenos Aires has become my go-to fun spot, whether I’m in the mood for nightlife, the charm of its boutiques, or simply a peaceful corner in one of its many cafes.

My first encounter with Palermo Soho was purely accidental, a happy detour during one of my early explorations of the city.

Sandra and I finished up with a tango class and got lost wandering the city. We didn’t know the name of the area or even where it was on the map, but walking its cobblestone streets, adorned with artistic graffiti, immediately gave me a European-artsy flashback, but with a distinctly Argentine twist.

By the time we finished sipping our first cortado in a quaint café with ceramic mugs, we were completely enamored by Soho’s bohemian energy and international vibe.

INSIDER TIP: Avoid The Noise- If the hustle and bustle aren’t music to your ears, and your weekend vibe is more serenity and chill, then Palermo Soho is not for you. It’s hard to avoid the noise and crowds that pile into Buenos Aires’ nightlife hub.

If you want to live somewhere close to the energy but away from the noise, check out my neighborhood- Palermo Hollywood. I describe Palermo Hollywood as the perfect blend of thrill and chill. Hollywood is the yin to Palermo Soho’s yang – which you will discover in part two of this series.

For The Affordable Cost of Living In Palermo Soho

Housing- Here is an example of an average one-bedroom apartment rental in Soho.

For $800 a month, utilities with wifi and cable TV included, you get a modern finished apartment with luxury amenities like a pool, jacuzzi, and gym in your building. 

Here is a Menu del Dia, or Menu of the Day at a mid-range restaurant serving Argentine food.

You can spend $6 for lunch and get soup, steak, side dish, dessert, and a glass of wine.

Unlike in the US, breakfast here is a light meal. A typical Argentine desayuno (Spanish for breakfast) is coffee, medialunas or facturas (local pastries), and fresh squeezed orange juice.

My girlfriend and I ate this 3-4 times a week at different coffee shops in the neighborhood for less than $3 per person.

INSIDER TIP: La Cabrera Happy Hour- It’s hard enough finding someplace that serves dinner earlier than 9 pm in Buenos Aires, much less a top quality steak at 40% off. But La Cabrera in Palermo Soho offers a massive discount if you eat the “Early Bird Special” from 6:30 pm to 8:00 pm (last seating at 7:15).

40% off the entire menu is an awesome deal from one of Latin America’s Top 50 Best Restaurants.

INSIDER TIP: Most Expensive Neighborhood In Buenos Aires- Palermo Chico has a reputation as Buenos Aires’ most exclusive upscale neighborhood. However, due to the proximity to several Embassies and luxury apartments, it also has the highest property prices. Housing in Chico averages $465 to $555 per square foot ($5000 to $6,000 per m2).

I recommend that most expats look to the Palermo Soho and Hollywood areas for a better balance of the cost of living, atmosphere, and amenities.

For The Best Foodie Scene In Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is my second favorite food city in Latin America (props to Lima, Peru, for holding down the #1 spot). Foodies will find themselves in culinary heaven in Palermo Soho.

The neighborhood boasts the city’s most dense and diverse array of restaurants, from traditional Argentine steakhouses to modern international fusion eateries. Whether you crave a juicy steak, fresh empanadas, or exotic flavors from around the world, Palermo Soho has something to satisfy every palate.

Want a modern take on traditional Argentine Street Food?

If you want an upscale twist to the local classic sausage sandwich, Chori takes the traditional chori and adds a bit more oomph. Sure, you can get the authentic choripan grilled over wood charcoal and topped with chimichurri, but why not try one topped with french fries, melted queso blanco, and a special guasacaca sauce of cilantro, onion, garlic, and bell peppers?

Chori was featured in the Netflix series “Somebody Feed Phil“

Want Michelin Star fine dining?

When you need to impress out-of-town visitors or want to splurge, Don Julio is considered one of the world’s 50 Best Restaurants and the owner of a Michelin star. Just remember to book ahead. Reservations are hard to come by.

Buenos Aires Cemented Itself As A Foodie City By Clean Up Several Michelin Awards:
1 Two MICHELIN Star restaurant (Buenos Aires)
6 One MICHELIN Star restaurants (2 in Buenos Aires and 4 in Mendoza)
7 MICHELIN Green Star restaurants (4 in Buenos Aires and 3 in Mendoza)
7 Bib Gourmand restaurants (all in Buenos Aires)
57 restaurants also recommended for the quality of their cuisine (42 in Buenos Aires and 15 in Mendoza)
– MICHELIN GUIDE 2023

Tired of local fare and want something more exotic?

International cuisine isn’t on the side here; it’s front and center. With Vietnamese Pho at Saigon Noodle Bar to All-You-Can-Eat Korean BBQ at KBBQ Parrilla Coreana to Sipan’s Peruvian-Japanese Fusion within blocks of each other, Soho allows you to explore the world one bite at a time

Recognized by the government of Peru as the best Nikkei cuisine restaurant outside of Peru.

Shift from savory to sweet with an Argentine twist to Italian Gelato

Argentine ice cream, known as “helado,” holds a special place in the hearts of locals and expats alike. Here, gelato is not just a treat but a tradition – a deliciously creamy lineage tracing back to the country’s Italian immigrants.

At Palermo Soho’s Heladoerias (Ice Cream shops) like Antiche Tentazioni, you can indulge in creamy Italian gelato mixed with classic Latin American flavors like dulce de leche to innovative combinations queso azul y peras (blue cheese and pears).

To Enjoy Weekend Vibes and Nightlife

During the day, the outdoor cafes and restaurants around Plaza Serrano serve lunch and coffee, but at night, they transform into al fresco bars with live music and 2 for 1 Happy Hour drink specials.

As the sun sets, Palermo Soho comes alive with energy and excitement. The neighborhood is the hub of nightlife in Buenos Aires.

Bars, clubs, and live music venues that ring the square and branch off to the adjacent streets offer a vibrant nightlife scene where residents can unwind, socialize, and dance the night away.

Whether you’re looking for a cozy wine bar or a lively nightclub, Palermo Soho has something for everyone. You can dance under the starlit sky, engage in lively conversations with locals, or just people-watch with a cold cerveza.

INSIDER TIP: Palermo Soho Food and Drink Tours- For a crash course on all the neighborhood has to offer, check out these unmissable local experiences:

Foodie Lovers Tour: A perfect blend of culture and cuisine—this is my kind of tour. An essential piece of a country’s culture is its culinary traditions. This tour allows you to sample eight local dishes and drinks at four of Palermo Soho’s unique local restaurants. Get smart and get fed.

Argentina Steak Tour: This one is for carnivores only! Enjoy three of Palermo’s top parrillas for a taste of Buenos Aires’ finest beef while an expert guide explains the cuts and cooking techniques that make Argentine steak world-renowned. Includes a wine paring

Local Wine Tasting Tour: Savor local boutique wines in Palermo Soho’s Miravida cellar with a local sommelier. Enjoy an intimate tasting session, exploring Argentina’s finest wine varietals like Malbec and the less-known but equally rich Torrontes.

Explore The Street Art: With a local guide, explore the street culture and art of Palermo Soho. Discover hidden underground murals, talk to the artists, and learn about their inspirations.

To Savor The European Coffee Culture

After living several years in Europe, I value the unhurried, laid-back vibe of European coffee culture. Add in my Pacific Northwest coffee snobbishness, and it suffices to say I appreciate a good cup of coffee.

This is another instance where I thank the heavens for the influence of European immigrants in Buenos Aires. Coffee and cafes in Palermo Soho do not disappoint. Whether you prefer a strong espresso or a creamy cappuccino, you can find your perfect brew in one of the many cozy coffee shops that pop up seemingly every block.

You find yourself nestled in the quaint cafes of Palermo SoHo, offering a taste of European coffee culture, where coffee is not just a beverage but a pastime—a ritual steeped in conversation and the languid enjoyment of life.

INSIDER TIP: Hidden Gem Discovery DUCA – Caffè & Apericena: I remember stumbling upon a beautiful cafe in Palermo Soho, tucked away from the bustling streets. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the baked goods instantly drew me in, but the view from the rooftop terrace made it my go-to spot for quiet mornings and productive afternoons.

For Fitness, Fun, and Calisthenics Parks

Whether it’s hitting the gym, finding your zen in a yoga class, or prepping for a CrossFit competition, Soho has your workout needs covered. Staying active and maintaining a healthy lifestyle is easy in Palermo Soho. There are even free outdoor calisthenics parks where residents can exercise and stay fit on a budget.

If you are looking for something other than sports clubs, running, or strength training to keep you in shape, my Muay Thai gym and Tango studio are both Palermo Soho, offering alternative ways to stay fit and healthy.

Need Some Retail Therapy and Boutique Shopping

Shopping enthusiasts will delight in the unique boutiques and designer stores that populate Palermo Soho. From trendy boutiques to artisanal craft shops, the neighborhood offers a diverse shopping experience that caters to all tastes and budgets.

Head to Distro Arcos to shop for international brands like Adidas, Nike, and Levi’s. But know ahead of time that imported goods can be even more expensive than what you pay for back home, due to Argentina’s taxes and weaker currency.

Regardless, the real gems in Soho are found in the local boutiques and small-scale designer shops, where you’ll stumble upon unique and budget-friendly finds.

If you are looking for artwork or local handmade crafts, both Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia have weekend markets with trendy, one-of-a-kind clothing, handmade jewelry, and original accessories from local artisans.

Appreciate The Street Art and Artistic Spirit

One of the defining features of Palermo Soho is its colorful street art scene. Building and walls become the canvas for massive murals and graffiti showcasing the bohemian-chic creativity and cultural expression of local and international artists.

Walking through the streets of Soho is like browsing an open-air art gallery, where every corner tells a story and asks for artistic interpretation.

These murals aren’t just decorations; they’re stories painted on urban fabric, reflecting the soul of the city.

In Palermo Soho, the art is not confined to galleries—it’s a living gallery that invites you to be part of it.

Because Your Close To Green Spaces and Parks

The biggest con about living in Palermo Soho is the lack of green space. Plaza Inmigrantes De Armenia (the official Spanish name for Plaza Armenia), Soho’s only major park, offers a small retreat for picnics, leisurely strolls, and an outdoor playground for kids.

But if you want to really escape the urban hustle and bustle, the Botanical Gardens and Palermo’s massive parks are only several blocks away.

These green areas are filled with futbol-playing friends and families looking for a nature break to recharge before diving back into the bustling city life.

For Easy Public Transportation Access

Did you know that the average American spends over $1,000 per month on transportation? Car payments, gas, insurance, and parking add up quickly.

The good news is that you can save that money living in Buenos Aires.

Getting around Palermo Soho is easy. Walking across the entire neighborhood is a little over .6 miles / 1 km and only takes 15 minutes.

If you need to leave the district to check out other parts of the city, Argentina’s capital has the best public transportation network I’ve found outside of Europe.

Soho is well-connected to several public transportation options. I use the Subte MetroLine D almost daily, as it conveniently runs every 5 minutes on peak weekday hours. The neighborhood also intersects several bus lines ensuring that you can efficiently navigate to and from Soho to other areas of Buenos Aires.

A metro ticket costs $0.75 US cents / 757 Pesos, and the average bus ride is $0.27 US cents / 270 ARS. My transportation budget is less than $100 a month, even with frequent Uber rides.

Those are not typos. Those cheap fares are updated for residents using the latest 2024 price increases.

As we conclude our exploration of Palermo Soho, it’s worth mentioning its neighbor – Palermo Hollywood. Hollywood is where I spent most of my time living in Buenos Aires. While it doesn’t have the vibe and electricity of Soho, Palermo Hollywood was my favorite district offering the perfect blend of cuisine, convenience, and chill vibes.